performance adds

[Sneed69]

I am running out of bolt of performance things. so I think.

 

I have FMF Fatty's, K&N filter, PowerLid, jets, Boysen reeds... What else can I do that has a good bang for the buck performance wise and is fairly bolt-on.

 

I have no problem gettying into the motor, just don't wanna get into the thousands of dollars for mods.

 

What have you guys done that had the most noticeable power increase?

 

Thanks,

Sneed

[Wildcard2]

cool head, advance timing, portwork

[Sneed69]

cool head, advance timing, portwork

 

I've been looking at the cool head, does it add much? Do I have to do much to the rest of the motor to add just the cool head?

 

Also, the advanced timing, what all is involved with that? Sorry the question is so generic, but I haven't done much with advancing the timing.

 

Thanks,

 

Sneed

[05.Banshee.SE]

Cool head and domes are your next step.

 

Then there's an adjustable timing plate...it's not hard to do.

 

The head runs about $195, domes about $65 and I'm not sure on the plate.

 

You can find better deals online though.

[Wildcard2]

I've been looking at the cool head, does it add much? Do I have to do much to the rest of the motor to add just the cool head?

 

Also, the advanced timing, what all is involved with that? Sorry the question is so generic, but I haven't done much with advancing the timing.

 

Thanks,

 

Sneed

nothing else is required to mount a cool head, both the cool head and timing advance will give you a nice bottom to mid power increase. you can get the ricky stater adjustable timing plates for around 40$, you will also need a fly wheel puller to do the timing advance. If your looking for a big power increase then port work is your next step.

[Sneed69]

nothing else is required to mount a cool head, both the cool head and timing advance will give you a nice bottom to mid power increase. you can get the ricky stater adjustable timing plates for around 40$, you will also need a fly wheel puller to do the timing advance. If your looking for a big power increase then port work is your next step.

 

So just mount the cool head on and go? Will just the cool head give me a noticable power increase, or does it need to be done with the timing advance?

[05.Banshee.SE]

Just get the coolhead, then domes to match what octane you want to run (give me your elevation, and if you want to run race fuel or pump 93 and I'll suggest a size to you, or look it up for yourself), then advance the timing.

 

Just do it. Trust me.

[flyhighprerunner]

I think the timing and coolhead mods, and then you should be good for awhile, until you can spend some money on carbs and portwork.

[Sneed69]

Just get the coolhead, then domes to match what octane you want to run (give me your elevation, and if you want to run race fuel or pump 93 and I'll suggest a size to you, or look it up for yourself), then advance the timing.

 

Just do it. Trust me.

 

My elevation is 430' and I run 93 Octane and would like to continue running 93 Octane.

 

What all is involvled in advancing the timing?

 

Thanks for all the help.

[Sneed69]

I think the timing and coolhead mods, and then you should be good for awhile, until you can spend some money on carbs and portwork.

 

Do carbs and portwork have to be done at the same time? I guess if the carbs are bigger, the head needs to be able to accomodate that? Does that sound correct? Or am I way off?

 

Thanks again

[LS1Inferno]

to do the timing yo need this Rick Stator

 

all you do is pull fly wheel and unbolt the stator and unbolt the coil an dbolt it to this ans set it at +4 and youll be good for 93 Oct. the head is not necessary for port work or carbs. it is just the ease of changint domes to up the compression thus power BUT you need race gas above 160ish PSI. and porting and carbs do not have to go together. BUT if you get a nice dune port then you will want some slightly bigger carbs.

 

instead of a cool head you can just have the stock head milled to up the compression IDK how much i don't remember. that is a BIG savings for a little bit of power. maybe $20-30 at a machine shop. if you ride trails smaller carbs are better for low end. and you can get a trail port.

 

all depends on you type of riding let us know and we can tell you what your best setup would be. ALSO if you dont need it for mud and water you can loose the airbox and get pods and outerwears.

[98golded]

Depending on the type of coolhead you get and where you get it from, you might have to purchase a longer head stud kit, as the pro design heads are thicker than the factory heads around where the head mounts to the cylinders. If you're looking for an obvious power increase your best bet would be advanced timing along with portwork. There are many different styles of porting depending on the type of riding you do. A cool head isn't as much necessary, but a luxury to be able to just unbolt the head and change the domes to change compression, it just holds more water. You can have your factory head shaved and if cooling is still a priority buy a couple of inline water coolers and a billet water impeller.

[Sneed69]

I mainly ride trails and MX tracks... I'm mostly wanting the most low and mid range power, and the responsiveness that'll snap your neck, but I don't want to lose the top end either. I do realize there is a trade off, but I'd like to think there is a happy middle ground.

 

Again, my elevation is 430' above sea level, and temps are in the 90's the majority of the time, Dallas, TX.

 

Current Setup

Stock Head

Pilot Jet: 25

Needle: 3rd position

Main Jets: 300

Exhaust: FMF Fatty

Silencers: Core2

K & N: Filter

K & N: PowerLid

 

 

I spoke with a guy at Duncan racing for almost an hour today, and the setup he came up with is as follows:

 

Desired Setup

The CoolHead with 21cc Domes

Pilot Jet: 30

Needle: 4th or 5th position

Main Jets: 300-320

Exhaust: FMF Fatty

Silencers: Core2

K & N: Filter

K & N: PowerLid

 

I am looking at this particular one: Coolhead

 

Will the kit have everything I need for the installation and will the difference in power be extremely impressive? Also can I use this setup in conjunction with the Ricky Stator Timing plate advancing it to +4. And what kind of performance increase do you get from the timing advancement? Also, I guess I'd need to move the needle from the stock position. Again, I want to get as much low end and mid range power as possible without having to do any machine work or killing the top end. Is this the right way to go about it?

 

I'm basically summing up this thread and want ya'lls final feedback.

 

I really appreciate everyone's info on this! :smile:

[spurdy]

Do carbs and portwork have to be done at the same time? I guess if the carbs are bigger, the head needs to be able to accomodate that? Does that sound correct? Or am I way off?

 

Thanks again

 

Who ever you decide to do the porting can suggest carbs for their set up. The head has nothing to do with porting or carbs. No fuel flows through the head on a 2 stroke. Only the domes may need to be cut if you go with a long rod or stroked crank.

 

SP

[lilmegill727]

also another thing to do for low end is drop down to a 13 tooth front sprocket.