Graphichead Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 I need to replace my crank. Should I go stock or +4? I have stock stroke now, is it just as easy as changing to a +4, rejetting and switching to 100+ Octane? I have a Hemi Head with 20cc domes on a 396cc cub. Am I missing something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE GRIM RIPPER Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 I'd stay stock w/ a Mr.Fusion kit but anyway......... Your camera is about as nice as your bike man!!!! Thats a sweet shot right there, wish I could get my huckle buck ass camera to perform like that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pr0blumz Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 If you change to a +4 crank then you will have to run a spacer plate or get new pistons for the added stroke. It would be best if you had your cylinders ported too to take advantage if you really would like to see a big gain in performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 If you change to a +4 crank then you will have to run a spacer plate or get new pistons for the added stroke. It would be best if you had your cylinders ported too to take advantage if you really would like to see a big gain in performance. if you run a 4 mil you have to get a spacer plate (not perfered) or get the motor ported to adjust the port timings. The pistons are not due to the stroke, the differant pistons are do to the rod length. You can get a long rod 4mil (most common and perfered) or a noraml rod. The rod length has nothing to do with power, its only to releive angle from the rods when the motor fires, those taking stress off the bearings. I would say that if you hav the funds. Get the 4mil crank and have someone port your jugs for your riding style. BTW that is a very nice pict you have. What kind of camera was that taken with? I have a Canon XTI but havent quite figured out any of its neat features other then point and shoot. Would love to get some pcts like that out at the sand drags ths next trip. If you know a little about cameras please drop me a pm, i would be interested in learning a thing or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pr0blumz Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 Thanks for the correction. I meant to tell him the new pistons would be for the perfered 115 rod for longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graphichead Posted August 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 Thanks for the great info so far guys. Bansh-eman: I assume you have the 18-55 kit lens. 18 is great for this shot... to get a blurry background the concept is to cut the ratio (in distance) between the camera - the subject (Banshee) and the subject - background. 18mm (smaller the number the better) will let you get close but still have the entire subject in the frame. Kneel down to increase the ratio. Don't shoot indoors unless you have a good external flash. If you put you XTI on "M" manual you can change the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. These will all can greatly effect the photo as well. You should play around with it, the XTI is a great camera... I'd love to live near some dunes... Nghe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graphichead Posted September 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 OK, I finally got some time to take a look at the top end and it looks like I don't need a crank after all... BUT! I will need new pistons and to bore out the jugs. Does anyone know if I can bore 396cc Cheetah Cub cylinders? What should I bore too? What is the minimum and maximum? I think they are Nicasil does that mean they need to be renicasilled after boring? What kind of pistons should I get? If I bore out should I get smaller cc domes? OK too many questions. Nghe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Your cub just needs the same size pistons that you have now, then send it to millenium to be re-nickasiled. As far as a 4mil, you would need to buy 4mil cub cylinders to do it. Stock cubs have 130 degrees +-1 of transfer duration, you won't be able to re-port it for a 4mil because the porting is allready too aggressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graphichead Posted September 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Your cub just needs the same size pistons that you have now, then send it to millenium to be re-nickasiled.As far as a 4mil, you would need to buy 4mil cub cylinders to do it. Stock cubs have 130 degrees +-1 of transfer duration, you won't be able to re-port it for a 4mil because the porting is allready too aggressive. The right side is pretty scraped up from a blown piston. You're saying I just have to re-nicasiled no boring needed? Nghe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 The right side is pretty scraped up from a blown piston. You're saying I just have to re-nicasiled no boring needed? Nghe They will weld in the gouges and bore it then re-plate it. It usually cost around $300 to have a set of cubs done, but if it needs welded and bored then it will be a little more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graphichead Posted September 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 OK, I guess I gotta back up a bit... I just did a magnet test on the cylinder wall to see if it's nikasil... and the magnet stuck... Doesn't this mean the my cub isn't nikasil? I thought all cubs were plated. Is the magnet test even true? Man I feel dumb and I have no bike to ride and the weather is beautiful! Guess this is called learning :-) Nghe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 Thanks for the great info so far guys. Bansh-eman: I assume you have the 18-55 kit lens. 18 is great for this shot... to get a blurry background the concept is to cut the ratio (in distance) between the camera - the subject (Banshee) and the subject - background. 18mm (smaller the number the better) will let you get close but still have the entire subject in the frame. Kneel down to increase the ratio. Don't shoot indoors unless you have a good external flash. If you put you XTI on "M" manual you can change the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. These will all can greatly effect the photo as well. You should play around with it, the XTI is a great camera... I'd love to live near some dunes... Nghe yup i have the 18-55 lens. I know this camera can do so much more then i will ever know about. I just use it for taking your everyday picts. I would love to learn more about the differant effects. What kind of camera are you shooting with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee rips Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 OK, I guess I gotta back up a bit... I just did a magnet test on the cylinder wall to see if it's nikasil... and the magnet stuck... Doesn't this mean the my cub isn't nikasil? I thought all cubs were plated. Is the magnet test even true? Man I feel dumb and I have no bike to ride and the weather is beautiful! Guess this is called learning :-) Nghe the magnet will stick through the plating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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