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This post will be edited as more information is obtained and/or corrections are needed. This is list of all banshee cylinders in production and obsolete(out of production). If you have anything to add, correct or share; post here or pm me. CP industries Inc: Cheetah Cub: Works with regular heads commonly found on stock bikes like Noss/pro design heads. Typically used for Drag/Dunes due to power coming on higher in rpm range. Uses stock reeds. Usually referred to as a Cub. Bore – 64mm to 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 347cc to 494cc Serval Cub: Works with regular heads common on trail bikes like Noss/Pro Design heads. Typically used for trails, play bikes, dunes due to power coming on lower and smoother in the rpm range. Can be ported into drag cylinders since there is extra material. Uses stock reeds. Bore – 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 64mm CC – 392cc to 465cc Wampus Cub/Wampus Serval Cub: These are casted externally to be made to look like stock cylinders but they are still monoblock design. It's meant to be a more stealthy look. A knowledgeable person will not be fooled. Uses stock reeds. (The Wampus gets its name from the Cherokee Indian word meaning “Ghost Cat”). Bore – 64.5mm to 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 358cc to 494cc Super Cub: Bigger bore version of Cheetah Cub. Requires a big bore head and case work. Uses stock reeds. Supers cubs have the option of larger flange exhaust. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore – 72mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 440cc to 554cc Super Serval: Bigger bore version of Serval Cub. Requires a big bore head and case work. Uses stock reeds. Supers servals have the option of larger flange exhaust. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore – 72mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 440cc to 554cc Super Wampus: Same concept as the Wampus Cub, but for the bigger bore Super Cub and Super Serval Cub. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore: 72mm Stroke: 54mm to 68mm CC: 440cc to 554cc Cheetah:. The cylinders can have power valves. Optional power valves use exhaust pressure to open the the power valves. Typically used for Drag/Dunes. Uses Honda 250R reeds. Bore: 65mm to 74.5mm Stroke 54mm to ? CC: 358cc to ? Cheetah DM: Short for dominate male. Typically used for Drag racing. Usually referred to as a DM. Bore: 72mm/78mm Stroke: 58mm to 78mm CC: 472cc to 611cc Cheetah DMX: Usually used for drag racing/duning. Poor water jacket design. Tend to overheat unless on meth when duning. Usually referred to as a DMX. Bore: 84mm – 85mm Stroke: Cougar: Bore: 85mm Stroke: 76mm Sniper: Similar to the CP Industries Cougar. Exhaust Flange Varies. Will not accept OEM size Flange. Reed cage bolt pattern from a snow mobile. Bore: 85mm ? Stroke: 76mm ? Scimitar: Bore: 95mm Stroke: 76mm Caracal: Bore: 98mm Stroke: 76mm "129mm spread Billet cases (AKA Schimitar cases) are only available with "BIG BEARINGS" (72mm). We offer them in strokes from +20mm to +30mm. These cases were originally deighned for the Ski Doo MXZ 800 cylinders however over time CP Industries has produced a cylinder for these cases called a Schimitar with a massive 95mm bore taking this engine to a hole nother level." This chart applies to all Banshee cylinders(Not just CP Industries). Bore and stroke are in mm. Engine Size is in cc. Engine size (cc) = (Bore (mm)/20) * (Bore (mm)/20) * (Stroke (mm)/10) * pi * # of cylinders Vitos: Big Bore/392cc: Directly from Vito’s website: Stealth stock appearance sleeved and bore able -10 ports -- with triple exhaust -- up to 90hp at rear tire on race gas- cannot be used with stock heads unless they are custom machined for big bore or use big bore domes ordered separately Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm (stock) Athena: Big Bore/392cc: Nickel carbide coating. Needs a lot of work to run well and up to par with most people's expectations. Basically a worse version of Vito’s. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54 (stock) China Ebay cylinder kits: Can be found for around $165-$250 on ebay. Comes from probably china. You get what you pay for. You can’t expect much for a complete top end(cylinders, gaskets, pistons etc all for that price). Typically seen on the Bansheehq Facebook group from people who don’t listen and/or research. Do not buy this. Common vendor: Mr. Sum Ting Wong. DASA: Info directly from DASA's website: Don't be fooled by the imitators. Dasa is the home of the ORIGINAL Superjet Big Bore Powervalve Cylinder. Dan Lamey has been developing and producing these cylinders for over 15 years. Dasa (Dan Lamey) has a reputation of being the leader in watercraft development. Dasa has helped to create numerous champions such as Nicolas Ruis, Eric Malone, Chris MacClugage, Alessander Lenzi, Tara Lahoe, Jeff Jacobs, Lee Stone, and many more. Dasa Big Bore Powervalve Cylinders are the only cylinders trusted by Factory Yamaha Racing. If Factory Yamaha can trust Dasa to put them on the top of the podium, so can you! Powervalve Cylinder 85mm Pistons Complete Power Valve Assembly Billet Head & Domes All Necessary Hardware, O-Rings, & Gaskets Crankcase Modifications Required Cylinder Porting Included 12mm Stroker Requires Billet Crankcase Driveline Performance: Assassin: Stock appearing cylinder. Nikasil coated. Designed to be used with +4mm long rod stroker crankshaft with 115mm rods. This cylinder kit has higher port timings for riders who are wanting more mid to top end power. The port specs on these cylinders are 196 exhaust and 124 transfer durations. The exhaust port is much larger then a stock cylinder so peak H.P. will be much higher. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm Assassin LP: Nikasil bore, triple exhaust ports, larger intake and transfer ports. This cylinder kit has lower port timings for riders who are wanting more mid and low range power bands. The port specs on these cylinders are 191 exhaust and 121.5 transfer durations. The exhaust port is much larger then a stock cylinder so peak H.P. will still be much higher even though the ports are lower durations. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm ESR(Eddie Sanders Racing): ESR basically sold pro x cylinders. This per ESR themselves when i emailed them for info. FMF: Powervalved. Mono block design. Bore – ? Stroke – ? CC – ? Twister: Small Block: These cylinders have triple ports and boost ports. Most would consider a dune port. They have plenty material to be tailored how you want. They have a much larger coolant capacity than competitors’ cylinders, and better coolant flow characteristics. They have changeable intake runners and exhaust flanges. You can run stock banshee reeds or YZ250 reeds, and small-bore or big-bore pipes. Equipped with power valves from a Ski-Doo Summit 800. As of December 2011, there have been 4 generations of small block twisters since it was released. They no longer make small block twister cylinders with power valves. Bore: 68mm to 78mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm Big Block: Use cr125 reed blocks. Bore: ? Stroke: ? Trex: No info found Bore: ? Stroke: ? Stock Cylinders Made by Yamaha that come with the banshee Bore: 64mm Stroke: 54mm General Info Spread: Twins Stock – 102mm Cougar – 120mm Schimitar – 129mm Caracal – 150mm Triple 102mm spread 120mm spread 150mm spread Quad 120mm spread Stroker crank limit of stock cases are 10mil with no expoy. Larger can be done with expoy. For larger than 10mil granks, people usually use Mattoon billet cases. Available crank sizes Stock – 54mm 4mil – 58mm 5mil – 59mm 7mil – 61mm 10mil – 64mm 14mil – 68mm 16mil – 70mm 18mil – 72mm 20mil – 74mm Rod lengths Stock -110mm115mm 120mm 125mm 130mm 132mm 137.5mm Bearing OD Stock – 62mm Big – 72mm last edit 3-23-17 8:25am

What's up Banshee fam! What size domes and timing would you recommend for a setup like this, 421 Serval dune port --> currently running 24cc 100LL 7* Sniper inframes 33pwks (can't remember jetting at the moment) VF4's yada yada yada Originally had it on 91 pump gas with 4* Thanks in advance!

hey guys, I do some MX'ing and also a few hare scrambles a year with an occasional grass drag.when I trail ride, I ride like im in a race at all times. I'm trying to decide to upgrade my pipes or not. I'm currently running pro circuits and I absolutely love them but my fear is that they may be limiting my 421 serval a bit. they hit nice and hard down low and have solid pull all the way through. I rode my buddies ported stock cylinder 4 mil with CPI pipes and they were absolutely gutless down low- I had to keep the r's up pretty high just to ride, while the power band may have hit harder (im not really sure I wasn't hooking well) the pro circuits seem to pull for A longer period of time because they hit so much earlier. what does everyone think?

Hey guys, I'm a brand new Banshee owner,that is I'm new to Banshees I wish I had a brand new Banshee lol! I've owened quads since I was 17 and I'm 34 now. I'm mechanically inclined and catch on quick so here goes. After deciding to look for a project banshee I found one within a week,picked her up and brough her home. It's a 2000 model with a clean title and in pretty good shape chassis wise. It has new carbon fiber plastics, new pro elite bumper,new pro elite nerfs, new ITP hole shots on black SS wheels DMC exhaust a cool head and I believe that's about it. The engine is dead I pulled the top end and it broke a ring and trashed the right side jug and dome. I've decided to build a 421 4 mil serval after a lot of research. I think it'll work best for what I want to do with it. I mostly play ride with my sons,wife and friends but want to be able to readily spank some guys at the local mix park sand drag strip. My boys are 9 and 11 and both own 400ex's I also own a yfz450 with quite a few mods , a blaster ,TRX450 and a 660 Grizz. The engine: I went ahead and pulled the lower end threw it on the bench and have it ready to split tomorrow (had to wait for flywheel puller). I want to open it up for 2 reasons I want to learn the banshee engine inside and out like my other quads power plants and I want to make sure there's no trash in the crankcase. I plan to go back with the stock jugs .060 over with a set of Vito's forged super stock pistons and run it like that until I save for the serval build. With all that out of the way, I have a few questions. 1.) what kind of horse power can I expect the 421 4 mil to make? I'm not asking for a human dyno here, I know a lot of factors come into play. It seems 2 strokes really make power easily so Imagine that it can just as easily be hindered by improper tuning etc. i want to run 93 pump gas most of the time and fuel when I take it out to play at the drag strip. I know that the DMC pipes will have to go I plan to run Shearer pipes on it. 2.) what jetting is recommended for the set up I plan to run first? Mods will be ; .060 over stock jugs,no porting, DMC,cool head with 20cc domes. My elevation is 86' and temps are between 40-60 in winter and 90-110 in summer. 3.) jetting increments, On my other quads the numbers are as follows for example 48 pilot,175 main. I noticed when browsing jet kits the main sizes are 300-310-320 etc. Are all the banshee jets numbered this way, when I say banshee I mean the Mikuni carbs. If so is there some sort of crossover chart or something? if not can some one help me out with what stock jetting is for main and pilot jets so I kinda have an idea where to start. 4.) when I build the Serval is there any work needed on the cases like clearancing or anything? Also can I or if I have additional port work done on the Serval jugs or the cases will it adversely affect the low-mid range? I think that's it for now, didn't mean to write a novel but this is my first ever 2 stroke and the only way to learn is to ask. So im askin. Thank you guys in advance. I'll get my profile sorted out as soon as I can. I belong to a few other forums and I know about the whole "use the search button" thing lol. I did trust me, I've been reading for a week. Just needed more specific answeres to my questions.

421 Serval Cub Cylinders K&T Head With Cut 23cc Domes Wiseco 573 Pistons and Rings Cylinder Gaskets 4 Mill Hot Rods Long Rod Crank Clean Cases No Wack Vforce 4 Reeds 35mm Pwk's With Cable Etc.... Everything brand spanking new except the cases and the crank. The crank has very low hours and was pulled out to install the serval cylinders but I went a different route. I can include the full complete bottom end...tranny, forks, clutch setup, etc. So all you need to do is assemble. Message me so we can talk about a price and what you want. Text or call of you want - 7789807080 HAVE EVERYTHING TO BUILD THIS BABY EXCEPT SEALS AND SOME GASKETS! Sad to see it go. I had plans to build this for a mx bike but I found a great deal on a mx banshee that's ready to race so I bought it and now I don't need this. Plus I am broke as a muthafucka now haha

Hey, I just bought a serval top end kit and it comes with 23cc domes. I was wondering if this would be pump gas for me? I live at 150ft above sea level. I have 94 octane at my local gas station. The temp around here is 10-25 Celsius. I also need jetting help. My mods are 421 Serval 23cc domes 35mm Pwk's Cpi small bore inframes Vforce 4 Reeds Pods What jets should I get also what needle should I be at? Thanks

I just build a 10mm Serval cub (465) as cast. I'm running pods, 35mm carbs, chariot intakes, VF4 reeds, chariot cool head with 24cc domes (kicking compression 155lbs), shearer SB in frames. Timing is set at +5 with all stock ignition minus the timing plate. Fuel of choice right now is Avgas mixed 50:1 with Amsoil. Leakdown test held 6lbs solid for 1.5 hours. Right now I'm running into a problem that im hoping you guys can help me with. Im running 42 pilots, 135 mains, cgm needle on top clip. My machine is acting rich but i feel like im way to low to go any leaner. When my machine gets under heavy load like when hill shooting it has a hard time staying in the powerband. as if my pipes can't clear and its bogging out. Here are a few video clips of me out testing and tuning let me know what you guys think. This was with a 148 main this was with the 142 main I picked up more speed with a 140, 138, 135.... but im worried about being way to lean. Any other issues you guys might be able to lead me toward or is it just a jetting deal is all?

So I've looked around and there's so much out there it's hard for me to figure out what's best for me so I'm just going to ask. I'm building a Banshee for mostly straight lining and I want a motor that's a beast but will last longer than a month. Stock frame, probably gonna put a +12" swingarm on it and maybe some decent shocks but not gonna go to crazy with the suspension. As far as the motor goes I want to build it as big as I can without having to do any machining except porting the cylinders, which I can buy ported so that's not to big a deal. From what I've read 68mm bore x 58mm stroke (421cc) is the largest you can go without trenching and boring the case, is this true? Also I don't want to use stock cylinders bored I would preferably have a monoblock cylinder, is this a good choice, and if so what's a good monoblock that won't break the bank? Now if you have a +4mil stroker crank I know you have to have domes that are milled higher cause the piston will come farther up out of the cylinder but if you use "stroker" pistons with the raised wrist pin do you still have to use different domes? I want to run it on 91oct pump gas just cause of it's easy availability. What size carbs will be needed 34,35,38mm or 28mm slides? I'm going to run CPI Shearer pipes but will I need the small bore or big bore versions of the pipes? I know it's a lot of questions but it's also a lot of money so I want to make sure I do it right. Also I'll be assembling the motor myself and this is my first time tearing one of these apart, seems pretty simple though. Thanks ahead of time.

selling my 421 Serval Cylinders with 68mm Wisecos and Rings also have some VF4 Reeds wanting 1150 for cylinder pistons combo or 900 for top end, 200 for pistons, and 200 for reeds or 1350 for whole loot all is brand new reeds and pistons new in box cylinders have never been on cases

Do I need to put sealer on head bolts going into the cylinders? Do I put sealer on the water jacket plugs? Do I need to mix my gas more than 32:1 for break in? What does my squish need to be? Thanks

Trying to find a set of stock stroke cylinders for a project. Would like to see whats out their. No junk please, if their stock cylinders, im not interisted in anything bored over .040 Thanks

So i got a ported (just shapes) 10mil a serval my gearing is 15/38.. This is mainly a trail bike so i understand my ohtsu tires are gonna f*ck me. I can come out in 3rd near wot, but i think im just spinning tires i'm on asphalt.. i have a +4 swinger WE USUALLY RACE 1/8 MILE This is not a drag bike , but i do have a sh*t talker in my group. he rides a 392 cub lowered with shearers and 34pjs before i give in and race him i want to make sure i have the best setup i can have without messing up my trail setup too bad.. So i have a 14,16, 17,40,41 sprockect to play with i also have a set of bald 21" holeshots if those might work better in a drag thanks in advance also it is a wampus with a wampus head so he is already sleeping on my setup