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Showing results for tags 'reeds'.
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I am ordering a driveline 392 assassin cylinder kit and I’m having to make a decision on what to do with my reeds. I have a set of Vforce 3 reeds and the petals have seen better days. They still “work” but I’m starting to see gaps at the sealing surface and one petal is starting to flake at the corner. Flipping them won’t close the gaps. So my options at the moment are either: 1: Buy replacement petals for $100-120 from what I’ve seen online (they sell them at $50-59 per cage) 2: Sell the VF3’s for around the same price and get VF4’s 3: Sell the VF3’s and get the chariot cages with Boyeson reeds Chariot advertises that they have a flow advantage over vforce reeds with stock stroke mildly built engines and vforce apparently has the edge with stroker engines. Not sure how much of this is true, I do know that vforce petals last a very long time and I have no experience with the boyeson reeds. The chariot cages come with stage 2 boyeson petals and not their carbon fiber. What do you guys suggest I do?
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Whats up guys. I have these carbs and I decided I do not want to run them. I've taken them apart and cleaned them. Looks like they are running 200 main jets and I haven't looked at the pilot but if you're interested let me know and I will check for you. So, I am looking to trade for some other parts. What I have: - Two complete Kehnin carbs, one K&N style air filter and joint (if I find the others I will send it too, I'd imagine they are together somewhere but I'm not sure I even have them), throttle cable (needs 1 new adjuster), needles and assembly, caps. - Chinese "Stock" Carbs What I need: - Stock carbs (complete), boots, the connector pipe, reeds and reed cages, spacers and the bolts if you have them. - Anti-T.O.R.S. throttle cable for stock carbs - Air filters/stock air box and filter(s) What I want: - Toomey T5 pipes (or similar): Don't care if they are pretty just minimal dents - DC Conversion kit I will add to this once I know more. Cash can be added on either end. Let's work out a deal. Reverb Feedback: https://reverb.com/shop/rys-gear eBay Feedback: https://www.ebay.com/usr/guitarfreak2109 You can also text me (951) 662-6847 I am located in Buena Park, California and I prefer in person but I am willing to ship.
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I recently tore down my banshee. It had a shifting problem and I fixed the problem with no troubles. Put it all back together, put brand new gaskets and seals on everything and torqued everything to specs. It seems like a fuel issue. The banshee is getting plenty of power to the plugs but they come out dry every time. I'm getting fuel to my carbs because it drains out of the settling bowl after I kick it a few times. It ran right when I took it apart. It almost seems like the reeds aren't opening for some reason. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
- 10 replies
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- Wont start
- Reeds
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Hello all.. Im new to Bansheehq.com and to having a Shee as my main squeeze. Heres a bit of background on me.. I'm 36 and have been riding since I was 14. Started w/ a mojave and moved up to an 88' trx250r a couple years later. Since then ive owned quite a few 250r trikes, quadracers, a coule Shee's, trx450r, blaster, so forth and so on. Usually I pick up a bike cause its dirt cheap, tear it down and do a quick frame up on it so its pretty, and flip it. I really enjoy bringing life back to abused bikes for some reason. Anyhow, This is the first banshee Ive had as MY main ride. That being said, I'm new to the ins and outs of these bikes and would appreciate some input from you experinced guys out there. Im not a retarded douche like a lot of these new poster's i have read on here thus far. I have the tools/experience required to understand as well as complete any tasks recommended. I shouldnt say newbies are retarded but you know what i mean. Also, I have spent HOURS searching through past posts for info as to not waste anyones times w simple, already answered questions. . . I think. I apologize ahead of time for being long winded but I prefer to be overly thorough because I expect reply's to be thorough and equally well thought out.. I figure its better to waste my time typing possibly too much info, rather than wasting everyone elses.. That being said... here we go. So, I picked up a 2003 a couple years ago. Guy was supposed to squash the lein w/ my payment and get me the title but failed. Therefore I bought another bike a few months ago that had a clear title, etc. 2003 from couple years back: No title (not Hot), douglas beadlocks F&R, New rears, t5's, boost bottle, k&n, prm F&R bumper/grab, full skids, Virgin motor, paddles on rims, Misc bling.. bike runs very strong but looks quite neglected maintenance wise. New bike.. 2001: paid $1700.. Desert tank, cut plastics, tusk bars, twist, tors delete, UNI-pods, fresh top end, Paul Turner mids w fat boy 2s, Vforce2's, +2 a-arms, Elks stage 1's, trailtech lights, parking block off, braided lines, smoothies & paddles on polishes rims, brand new 22x8x10 shredders up front, 1.5 gal R50, and appears to be maintained very well.. super clean, reciepts for mods, etc. However, guy i purchased it from took it as debt payment so he had no first hand personal knowledge about jack shit but has a huge beautiful house w/ shop that you could eat off of. Guy seemed stand-up.. bout 55 yrs old. Bike ran like shit when i test rode it but it seemed like jetting and I saw enough good parts that it was worth it even if the motor was junk because the motor in my 03 was good so i bought it. And he gave me a couple weeks to come up w the cash so I couldnt pass it up. I live in AZ at 2800 ft elevation, i weigh 215, and ride aggresively compared to others my age around here it seems.. But maybe IM a total bitch compared to everyone on here.. who knows? So, 01' at home: Runs like piss. Open up the carbs and find a 250 main, 25 pilots and aftermarket needle.. and 30 pilots in the air filter side of the carbs intake (whatever tha jet is) . I open up the carbs off the 03 and find 280 mains, 25 pilots and aftermarket needles.. with factory airfilter side of carbs intake jets.. 2.4 or 1.6 or something like that. I put the 280s, 30s, and factory spec'd jets that are in the intake throat of the carb all in the 01 and find improvement. Ordered 27.5s, 290s, 300s, 310s, 330s, carb gaskets, filter oil, etc.. While waiting for delivery I checked a few other things. I checked the "static"? i think is the term.. compression by warming up, yanking both plugs, hook up snap-on comp tester, hold wide open, and kick kick kick kick kick... 182ish on the right and 178ish oin the left. Few hours research on this sight followed. Autozone trip (no race gas avail around here) to buy VP octane boost stuff. $20 a can, 1 can to 5 gal raises from 91 to 104-5 i believe it was. Oh, running r50 @ 40:1. wow, that helped ALOT! We're getting closer. Mailman drops off new jets.. Eventually found 300s w 27.5s worked best but still left a lot to be desired. Bike seemed to fall off fast and just burn through the gears really quickly. MPH seemed decent enough but it just FELT flat. New plugs.. nothing. reduced gap to .18-.20 from .26ish i think it was in case of weak ignition .. this seemed to help slightly. I checked for air leaks w can of carb cleaner and seemed to have one @ the reed block. Ordered new gaskets. Pulled vforce2s. I found that when i held a very bright flashlight up to the reeds, In only 3 of the 8 i could see light through them. However, it seemd to me that this was a natural effect from the weaving in production of the carbon fiber. Im talking about pinhole if not smaller sections of light. Maybe 4-8 "pixels" on each of the 3 reeds that allowed any light at all to pass through. I cleaned the reeds, flipped them, lightly buffed the edges with #0000 steel wool to polish any inperfections off that might keep the reed from seating properly against the cage. I used blue locktite upon re -assembly. Also, Some assfuck used some shit that was a nightmare to get off when installing the vforce2 cages. I COMPLETELY cleaned off the cages, boots, cylinders.. re-installed using light grease to tack the gaskets up and torqued to whatever it was this site said was correct (cant recall). I also cleaned and oiled the UNi-filters, put in 310s, and needle clipped at 2nd from the bottom (out of 6 postitons, so fat fat). Terrible results. Checked for air leaks and found nothing. Put in 330s, changed clip to 3rd from top (2 clips leaner), and put in 30 pilots. WAYYYYY better. WWAAYY better. On pavement just putting in third or even fourth, blip it and the front comes up. It took some serious effort to get the front end up prior. It still feels flat on the top 35% of the curve. Yanked the choke and it gets worse. Fat maybe? It just doesnt FEEL fat though. I didnt want to ride it very long in case of there being a lean condition. After 10-12 min of dicking around w 1 or 2 tops actual pinned banging gear trials ( letting out a second or two into 6th, clutch, kill, coast, check...) i didnt chop the plug but i thought this might be better than not checking at all. Strap changed color almost at weld but not quite.. closer to the top of gthe bend. Color looked good. Base ring looked as if it was a new plug. No oil or anything on the plug anywhere. One side of the strap was colored dif though, lighter just on the one edge. DId some more reading on this site. Found the orange and black coil wires were backwards as many are.. corrected. Too late at this point to check for improvement. Im getting closer but it still feels like im a good ways off from how it should be. I checked the cylinders when i removed the reed blocks and found they are unported. Ive basically took anything worth a shit off of the 03' and put it on the 01': beadlocks, bumper, grab, skids, tires, billet bling, etc. I noticed that the 01' has a vibration near idle. rev and when rpms fall and approach idle the motor vibes enough to shake the whole bike. Once its back at idle it ceases to vibe. Im wondering if this is normal or if maybe ive got a weak bottom end. I honestly dont recall the 03 doing that but i only rode it once. My gut tells me its not good ( the vibe). My plan was to part out the 03' in order to recoup funds put out on the 01'. If the 01' has A flawed motor, maybe i should keep the 03 motor? Or should i just ebay it and take the G i get for it and hope its enough to address any issues i might run into with this motor? The 01' seems to require more effort than it should when shifting. You have to really focus on pulling the lever completely up with deliberate force, otherwise it stays in whatever gear its in. Im not sure if this is cluth or trans issue. The suspension on this thing blows goats. I get a weird weight transfer feedback loop kinda thing that ends up w the bike bouncing front ot back in a way whenever theres any kind of rapid suspension work to be done. Doesnt seem right either. If im rolling down the way and quickley compress and the neg load the bike, the front wheels come off the ground. Increase rebound or rebuild? I increased the rebound and it seems beytter but still fuct to be honest. Im thining just doing the stage 3 elka kit when i can.. next 6 months maybe. next/mods: chain/sprockets..13/41 im thinkning, climer manual and check electrical specs, Try some 32.5 pilots, order some 320, 340, 360 mains and play with those, replace anything electrical that seems not to function according to spec, timing plate, reeds? does it sound like they need replaced ( they were set on high setting), port cylinders.. If my crank is factory doesn 180 seem high on the comp? should i worry about that? maybe weld crank before port so i dont break shit? Oh yeah, Id like to get a leakdown tester/kit but just dont have the time to build one myself. Id prefer to build one but just have too much other shit mentally going on. If someone has a used one, wants to build one, etc, I i am open to bartering all kinds of stuff from banshee parts, quality car audio, american (snapon, mac, matco, proto, sk, etc) tools, sbc perf parts, other powersports misc parts ( i have an ebay business) .. I have lots of quality guy stuff. Im a stand up honest man of my word kinda guy and expect the same with anyoine who wants to do business/barter.. Basically im looking for some logical advice from anyone whos learned the hard way so that i dont have to. I dont want to half ass anything or risk damage. I prefer to be safe rather than sorry and if i have to pull shit apart, i might as well put it back together with better shit since im already there, or at least thoroughly inspect, check, do anything required for peace of mind. However, i dont have cash to waste on doing shit that isnt required. Id rather spend some $ on preliminary things required for a reliable motor prior to modding it.. (makinf sure i have no air leaks, elec is working proper, jetted right, reeds r good, yada yada). You know what i mean. Any input or advice on repairing, improving, or preventing failure of any part of my bike is greatly appreciated. I thank you for taking the time to read this and will take all valuable relevant input seriously and perform advised procedures accordingly, not forgetting to respond with results either. Thanks guys. Much appreciated!!
- 24 replies
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- jetting
- compression
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Ok so I'll make it simple for now there's more mods to the motor, but for now I'm currently running stock carbs and vforce reeds what do you guys think if I put a 2 in 1 intake on a 4 mill?? Will it loose power? Can it gain more power? Better throttle response? More speed less speed? Good or bad idea? What are the pros and cons of a 2 in 1 on a 4mill? If good idea what size carb is good and what intake? Thanks for the help
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I've got a stock banshee with K & N pods and CPI pipes. (my son's) It doesn't have much low end response and I'm looking to do a simple upgrade to get the most out of it. Was thinking this: cool head 20 or 21 cc domes (not sure which) riding at 1,300 feet V Force reeds (3 or ?) What am I missing or what should I consider? I have a similar set up with T5's and it runs strong and has for8 years with no engine work needed. I ride it pretty hard so I have been impressed. Thoughts?
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selling my 421 Serval Cylinders with 68mm Wisecos and Rings also have some VF4 Reeds wanting 1150 for cylinder pistons combo or 900 for top end, 200 for pistons, and 200 for reeds or 1350 for whole loot all is brand new reeds and pistons new in box cylinders have never been on cases
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I have a pair of new, unmounted Banshee VF3 reed valves new in the original box. I'm not gonna use 'em so here they are for 'ya. V3144-2 $170 shipped to the ConUS 48. Gifted from your account, or you add Paypal fees.
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Very low hour stock head sandblasted Jet kit with stock and aftermarket needles,Allen head bolts for reeds,25 pilots,air mix screws,new needle seats,clips,270,200,280,290,260,340,270 mains. Stock timing plate 16 tooth front sprocket used once Stock reeds with low hours Black powdercoated stock handle bar mounts Everything can fit in a flat rate box so shipping is 6 bucks. Make me an offer. Pics to follow.
- 11 replies
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- stock head
- jet kit
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I recently bought a 96 banshee and it starts 2nd kick. i let it warm up for a good 5 mins before i ride. It rips great in first and second gear. Once i hit third it seems like the engine isnt getting fuel. No matter how much throttle i give it, i cant hit the powerband. This happens almost everytime. There have been few times where i hit the powerband and then go into 4th gear and then bogs. I took off my carbs and cleaned everything, i also removed the TORS system from it. I have been looking and cant find anything besides rejetting and TORS removal. I am wondering if the reeds are sticking. I am running klotz @ 32:1. With untouched gap NGK B9ES plugs. I am also running sea foam for cleaner. Also i am runnig unleaded, should i run premium, would that make a difference? Thanks.
- 10 replies
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- fuel delivery
- reeds
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Hey guys finally I decided to buy the v force 4 reeds , so they said I have to rejit my carbs ?! What do they mean by rejetting my carbs and is it necessary?!! Thanks
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Heey guys I have 09 stock banshee this is the mods that I will be doing : 1-what should I get t5 pipes or cpi? , I am mostly in the dunes 2-K&N air filter 3-v-force reeds 4-radiator 40mm 5-cool head 6-adjustable timing plate +4 How many HP will come out of this mods ? Do I have to buy a flywheel puller and why ? Do you recommend me to buy a trail tech vapor ?