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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
Found 23 results
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Im working on a banshee for a buddy. Did new top end, new reeds, brand new oem carbs and a few other small things. It will not suck fuel in from carbs. Can out my hands of the intakes and kick and it will eventually pull in and start. Wont idle without half choke. Sprayed some starting fluid around crank seal did not change anything. Has 125 compression on both sides. Any ideas? -
Hello Newbie here, I'll do my best to give you all of the relevant information needed. For background info, I just had my 97 Banshee motor completely rebuilt - the pistons and crank were both junk when I bought it, I've yet to ride it. The motor build consisted of 35.5mm Weisco pistons and a new hot rod crank with the stock cylinders machined to match. I, unfortunately, sort of overlooked adressing the porting on the cylinders and the gentleman who built it didn't really bring that up (cylinders believed to be previously ported). To fuel it the shop and I spoke of carbs and I settled of a set of knockoff 34mm PWK's from Vito's Performance. Can I get a good idea of the port job by removing the intake manifold and reeds? Mods consist of 35.5mm Weisco Pistons Stock Length Hotrod Crank Mild ported cylinders??? VForce 4 Reeds with billet manifold 34mm Knock off Keihin PWK carbs w/ rando small filters to match (Vito KN1090 style filters had too large of ID on the flange) - no air box. Toomey T5 Exhaust Pro Design Cool head with 19mm domes Ricky Stator w/ adjustable timing plate (I figure this is irrelevant) I need to know in the very near future if these carbs are too much for my build as I'll only have so long to address this with the shop I went through / Vitos. I intend to mostly ride in the summer with temps between 65 - 85 degrees at 900ft elevation.
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Not specifically for a banshee but I figured I’d ask here anyways since banshee guys tend to know answers tuning questions. I have a PWM 38 4XL from a 1997 YZ250 with a needle that I can’t seem to find any information on. Most likely due to my lack of hands on use of Keihin carbs. The bike has a built engine with an old generation bills pipe that I have no actual paperwork on so the carb may have some wild needle in it that’s not normal for a PWM. The needle code reads N40G from what I can tell. Any info is appreciated.
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Looking for someone to clear the confusion on aftermarket banshee needles. My current build has stock needles and has a dead spot off idle. I tried various pilot sizes and settings along with needle clip adjustments and main sizes and I still cannot fully solve it. Engine passed leak test so its not a lean condition. I tried a set of Toomey needles out of my buddy's bike and they cleared the issue immediately. Bike pulls hard right off of idle and makes power everywhere in the rpm range. If I have to pay the $50 for the Toomey needles off their site I will, but I'd like an explanation on the difference between all of the companies that make needles for banshees. 1. What are the major differences between them all? (Dynojet, Moose, FMF, Toomey, Vitos, and the ones from FAST) One of the banshee guys local to me told me they are all the same Dynojet-based needle and are just rebranded. This looks like it may be accurate as the Toomey, FMF, and Dynojet needles all look the same with the machine cut tip and 6 clip positions. 2. Due to how expensive needles are, I've considered the needles from FAST but I'm curious if they are the same needle as the toomeys but with one less clip position. Any information on these specifically will be greatly appreciated.
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Hi Banshee HQ. I'm on my way to picking up this 2001 Banshee, It is in boxes & will require a full motor rebuild. Asking what are some affordable combo's, I'm mainly riding trail so Im thinking of boring the stock cylinders to a 65.0 What Exhaust, Tyres, Stock Carb Jetting, Oil:Fuel ratio. 250ft to 590ft above sea level Plastics are sanded previous owner sanded them the front are drag cut. I want it to look as original as possible I don't mind blue or silver frame with blue plastics and original graphics kit How can i bring the blue back off the plastics. or what paint can i use and which process is good to use. Images: https://postimg.cc/image/3ki38z47x/ https://postimg.cc/gallery/w3c8ybf2/
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Hey guys, Just found out that the carb bowls are left/right specific, and I think that might be my hard starting problem. Is there a way to tell them apart without removing them? The shop is freezing and half the lights are burnt out, or I'd just go pull them. But if I can figure it out by looking, then I can scratch that off the list, or dig in deeper. Thanks guys.
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I have a 4 mil stock cylinder, dune ported, pump gas, 22cc domes, vf4, t5, stock carbs making 74hp done by Cam at Redline. It rips pretty damn good. I saved up over the past bit and decided to get CPI i.f. These pipes were the plan down the road from the beginning, I just didn't have the cash at the time. When I asked him if Id need bigger carbs for CPI he said no, "probably increase the pilot and maybe the main". However, I didn't ask if upgrading carbs would benefit or increase power much, "just if it was needed". My question is, will a bigger carb do much more for the performance? I'm concerned that my amateur tuning a new bigger carb will not benefit better than his expertise in tuning stocks. In the same breath Ill be rejetting as recommended so end up loosing his tune anyhow. Just hoping for some solid advice. just jet up?, new carbs?, what carbs? etc etc. My rides aren't all drag. treshots, sidehill etc. Sea level Thanks for the help!
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Whats up guys. I have these carbs and I decided I do not want to run them. I've taken them apart and cleaned them. Looks like they are running 200 main jets and I haven't looked at the pilot but if you're interested let me know and I will check for you. So, I am looking to trade for some other parts. What I have: - Two complete Kehnin carbs, one K&N style air filter and joint (if I find the others I will send it too, I'd imagine they are together somewhere but I'm not sure I even have them), throttle cable (needs 1 new adjuster), needles and assembly, caps. - Chinese "Stock" Carbs What I need: - Stock carbs (complete), boots, the connector pipe, reeds and reed cages, spacers and the bolts if you have them. - Anti-T.O.R.S. throttle cable for stock carbs - Air filters/stock air box and filter(s) What I want: - Toomey T5 pipes (or similar): Don't care if they are pretty just minimal dents - DC Conversion kit I will add to this once I know more. Cash can be added on either end. Let's work out a deal. Reverb Feedback: https://reverb.com/shop/rys-gear eBay Feedback: https://www.ebay.com/usr/guitarfreak2109 You can also text me (951) 662-6847 I am located in Buena Park, California and I prefer in person but I am willing to ship.
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Hey guys, so i just bought some keihin 34 mm and they are much bigger than stock. So what do i need to make them fits on there.I was thinking -fuel line- carbs cable-34mm intake boots and some new k&n dual filter.Do i forgot something?
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All right so I bought this quad off a guy that couldn't get it running right, long story short I doubt you guys believe me but thats why im asking the PROS! Its got t5 pipes, uni filter, on stock carbs. TORS deleted. 280 mains, stock 25 pilots First thing I noticed was that the thing ran so rich it blew oil out the exhaust... WTF got all over my truck and dudes just like yea.. lol Got it home and the slides were in backwards with the flat side facing the air filter, and the sight window wouldn't line up with the dot. So I cleaned the carbs out (well like 3 times now) and switched the slides around and now it will not fire. When the slides are in the right way and the carbs adjusted right. 1-1/2 on screw and idle run in till touch and maybe 2 turns.. I can get it to run if you put fuel in the cylinders but it wont pull and fuel through the carbs with the slides in the right way.. Believe it or not ive switched to slides back around (the way dude had them) and it runs just as shitty as when i bought it. Ive double checked float height and slides are not sticking. THIS THING DOES NOT MAKE SENSE WHY IT RUNS ONLY WITH THE SLIDES IN BACKWARDS AND NOT HOW THEY SHOULD BE. I havent been able to get it to fire once with slides in the right way which leaves me stumped. Thanks a lot, Dylan
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Has anyone on here bought PWK's from carbpartswarehouse? They say that they jet the carbs according to your mods, for a good starting point. If anyone has bought from them, how accurate or how good of a starting point is it?
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Hey whats up guys my father and I are bulding a banshee together. What we need to know is what size carbs you guys would recommend for our build. List of mods: Trued and welded crank (We are running a little bit bigger pistons than stock. Would have to get back to you on that if it makes a difference) Toomy t5 pipes V fource 4 reeds Cool heads 21cc domes Boost bottle. k&n air filters. All feedback is appreciated! Thanks!
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I recently tore down my banshee. It had a shifting problem and I fixed the problem with no troubles. Put it all back together, put brand new gaskets and seals on everything and torqued everything to specs. It seems like a fuel issue. The banshee is getting plenty of power to the plugs but they come out dry every time. I'm getting fuel to my carbs because it drains out of the settling bowl after I kick it a few times. It ran right when I took it apart. It almost seems like the reeds aren't opening for some reason. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
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Price is shipped inside the U.S. Polished Chariot Billet Bowls • for keihin carbs $125 shipped
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I'm looking for a set of stock carbs or maybe 28mm. I'm just curious to what I should pay. right now on eBay theres a set with the TORS and cables ready to bolt on and go for $115 free shipping. Is that a good deal?
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I recently purchased an original all stock (so i'm told) 1987 banshee for a school project. It runs and drives, however starting the thing is a pain in the a$$. The guy told me that it has an auto choke but I don't know if I believe him. After it starts it runs awesome. When its below 50 degrees fahrenheit I have to use starting fluid and it starts up no problem. Above 50 degrees it starts on about the 7th or 8th kick. Did they ever make an auto choke for a banshee, especially a 1987? Anyways should be a fun project. Thanks Tyler
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On my stock 98 banshee the left side carb does not have the plastic splash shield that goes over the main and needle jets, but the right side does, should they both? Or just the right. If so what could that cause?? Thanks
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Hey guys, I am about to buy this 2 into 1 kit from chariot for $200 comes with everything not a carb. Has anyone used this 2 into 1 kit before? If you did how was it? Also I have a 4 mil banshee with fmf fatty's, powercore 2's, vforces, and a cool head with 19cc domes pump gas. What carburetor do you think I should run with this set up? I think a 39 pwk would be good but what do I know right. Reply's are greatly appreciated.
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Hey guys got these carbs for sale, they're stock and they do come with intake boots and cables. 100 firm not going lower. VForce's are extra give a offer. Plus shipping. Text me at 7789807080 for pics, it's not letting me upload. Thanks.
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Used Chariot Performance Billet Intakes with NEW 34 to 36 carbs boots. Intakes come in powder coating gloss black and the croosover plate come in powder coating translucent blue. The black in excellent condition, blue have some little imperfections, barely visible with the intake installed. Also come with eight (8) titanium bolts in blue color. Internal o-rings included. Ready to install. $135.00 shipped via USPS.
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Hey there yall, Recently purchased a 2001 Banshee, plain jane other than the Pro-circuit pipes and K&N filter. I had a buddy of mine tell me about these jetless carbs out there. Ive done some looking around and theres a few different companies out there that make them. Im just wondering who all runs them and how happy they are. Are they worth it or should i go for broke and buy the fuel injection kit? Or just stick with the good old mikuni. |Ive had lots of experience screwing around with mikunis as every quad, bike, and carbed sled ive ever owned has had a mikuni, except for my 73 elan 250, and of course my brand new cat, lol. Just wondering what everyones views are, and how they perform? Thanks guys
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Can the adjustable idle built into the choke on my keihin carbs affect top end performance? If anyone knows where a good starting point is from all in or all the way out, please let me know.
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I have a set of Keihin PWK 28mm carburetors that have been painted black. I had LeD Performance do a 30mm taper bore on them as well. The come with K&N pod filters, filter socks, and stock manifold setup. I am selling the entire setup (I WILL NOT SEPARATE ANYTHING) for $300 shipped. Text @: 503-757-652six email @: the_ghost_flame@yahoo
