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Showing results for tags 'Crank'.
Found 15 results
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Hey guys. Here’s what happened. Driving home a while back, 6th gear pegged for about 30 seconds, then wheels lock up and I come to a skidding halt. Tore it down, and nothing was moving, pistons, crank, kick starter, nothing. Oiled the cylinders, played with the crank and eventually everything was rotating as it should, in neutral. Once in gear, no movement again. Got the wheels to rotate in gear eventually, compression good, all seems well. So the whole quad seemed ok aside from some internal scarring maybe that I couldn’t see. I never went deeper than removing the head aside from the case covers and external stuff. Put it all back together, flushed the case three times with oil, and nothing came out. Clean oil, no metal. I said “this thing is ready to run”! Put it all back together with new gaskets and seals for the head(pro-design). I fired it up, and instantly knew something was off. It has a very scary sound coming from the case. It sounds as if it’s rotating with no oil. Just like a hollow metal whirling sound. A lot of white smoke coming from the right pipe and none from the left.(crank seal?). Kick starter actually binded up once during the startup but not again, but it’s never done that before either. I was pissed after all those hours of wrench time so I said hell with it and took it for a spin. She still pulls hard, just as hard as before. Seems to run tip top, pops into neutral good, hits gears good. But that sound is still there and so is the smoke. I’ve parked it until I figure this out. It’s a fully custom banshee from the frame up and I don’t want to blow it up. I won’t get lucky twice lol I assume it’s a stock crank, I built the engine from the jugs up. Never had the cases apart, I bought a complete bottom end. I’m leaning towards a crank seal or something in that area. Long post, I know. What do you guys think? -
This Motor is brand new with the exception of break in and dyno. It pulled 109 hp. It was built by Cascade for a personal drag motor. After build was complete the class was opened to 421cc. It was traded for side work. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the motor, I am just building a 10 mil *NOT PARTING OUT* This package includes: Override Transmission 2-5 N Down 375 4 Mil Crank Trued and Welded With TZ 500 Mikuni T38 Alcohol Carbs 350 VF2 Reeds 175 Billet Intakes 150 66 Bore Monoblock Cub Cylinders 1200 Pistons 0 Pro Design Cool Head 240 Domes 0 All Hardware Included: Nuts, Studs, Wrist Pin Bearings ETC 0 Total 2990 Asking 2500 This motor Is currently completely assembled and will stay that way until items are purchased. When funds have cleared, I can provided detailed bill of sale immediately via Email. Please allow 72 hours to ship. I work long days and far from home. Buyer pays shipping and fees. Located In SW Washington State. I have many pictures but am unable to upload do to size. Message me with contact info and I can send them. I am asking a fair price for a new built, ported and tuned package. All you do is put it together and send it. Thanks -
Hey guys first post here I just bought an 03 banshee last summer and I am looking for some aftermarket parts!!!! Willing to pick up in the cenral Minnesota area!, let me know what you have! Thank you
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looking for a top end setup for sale Need pistons, cylinders, head. Want a ported stock stroke or 4mm ready setup. Will consider a less preformance setup for a good price. Will also buy crank! Stock or 4mm paypal ready and experience shipping needs sent to North Dakota
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Looking for a crank for my banshee. Stock, welded, or 4mm. Would need shipped to North Dakota or would buy straight from western canada. PayPal ready!
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Hey guys, I have a quick question. I bought a shee a while back blown for 1300 bucks. It's bored .100 over, has the boost bottle, stock head, trinity stage 4 pipes. The guy had burnt up a bottom end rod bearing and was afraid to get into crank issues. Now I have it... I pressed the crank apart and had to take my die grinder and grind down the crank pin because there was brass and metal welded to it from the bearing. Got it all cleaned up, put new rods in it, took it out for 15 minutes and boom. Again. Bottom rod bearing. What's happening now is because I have taken material off the pin It heated up, moved towards the bearing and pinched it. I have new rods again. Will perma loctite hold the throw from moving or am I looking at welding it or a new crank. I do still have to press it apart and together. It's not like I can use my hands to take it off. It's an oem crank and you can't remove the bottom end pin from the inner throw. Thanks guys, Mack.
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Hey guys, I need these following parts... -4 mil or stock stroke crank, has to be in great condition preferably 4 mil -cases that have no chain wack -stock or after market stator cover -adjustable timing plate -head that is cut for a 4 mil and can be used with 93 octane pump gas -also need seals and gaskets if anybody has brand new ones. -billet impeller -oversized radiator -pancake bearing -modded shift star I am rebuilding a engine that has a bad crank.
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Would a stock crank with a 115 rod be a 2 mil stroker?
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i have a HJR mx/dune ported topend, 64.5 bore custom cut chariot head for pump gas LOW HOURS.... motor makes real good power on bottom and mid with pc pipes.....real trail friendly,built for gncc racing... kit includes: hjr ported cylinders used pistons in great shape (ran rich) chariot head custom cut new factory intake boots fmf reeds on stock cage 26 mikuni carbs (stock replacements) black pro circuit pipes looking to swap for 39 pwks,10mm crank,aftermarket shocks,stretched swingarm or take $500 + shipping obo
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While putting my Shee engine back together I noticed that the RH side crank bearing pin is much shorter than the LH side is this normal? I was thinking that it was to denote LH from RH,but doesn't make sense. Both sides in the case to capture the crank bearings are the same size. All feedback is welcome and appreciated!! Thanks in advance
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my hotrods 4 mill 115 long rod crank just came in so im currently in the prosses of putting that in, just waiting on some seals and stuff, but i have a friend thats talking alot of shit and thinks his stock piped and jetted crf450r is the most powerful bike there ever was. and everybody in town is sick of it. so i need to be able to walk all over him on pump gas. im gonna get some v force 4s, adjustable timing plate and a cool head, and i already have T5s. how do you guys think i will do with this set up? let me know if theres anything else i should do or change
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Just as the title says. Has roughly 4hours of use. No up and down play. Will ship with spacer plate if you'd like. 300+shipping obo
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so my banshee blew up, shattered the skirt off the right piston.so while i have it apart im going to build up a 4 mill. was just wondering if theres anything important i should know besides getting a spacer plate or domes and having my cylinders ported for it. and i was wondering where the best place to order my crank from would be? thanks
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ok so my banshee is workin like crap, its having trouble getting up to rpm but when it does everything sounds good and snappy. but im smoking out of my right pipe and my right stinger only gets a little warm (i can grab it and hold it with my hand) where my left is nice aand hot. never did a compression test on it yet but im assuming thats the problem. im just wondering what the deal on the crank seal is i see people talking about. hope thats not my problem. fresh plugs and lots of fire stock banshee but toomey t5s, stock pilot, 280 main, air fuel screw 1.5 turns out, no air box cover, uni filter
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Was wondering if its possible to buy a new single connecting rod and be able to pull the crank apart and slide it into place or would I have to buy a whole new crank??
