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This post will be edited as more information is obtained and/or corrections are needed. This is list of all banshee cylinders in production and obsolete(out of production). If you have anything to add, correct or share; post here or pm me. CP industries Inc: Cheetah Cub: Works with regular heads commonly found on stock bikes like Noss/pro design heads. Typically used for Drag/Dunes due to power coming on higher in rpm range. Uses stock reeds. Usually referred to as a Cub. Bore – 64mm to 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 347cc to 494cc Serval Cub: Works with regular heads common on trail bikes like Noss/Pro Design heads. Typically used for trails, play bikes, dunes due to power coming on lower and smoother in the rpm range. Can be ported into drag cylinders since there is extra material. Uses stock reeds. Bore – 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 64mm CC – 392cc to 465cc Wampus Cub/Wampus Serval Cub: These are casted externally to be made to look like stock cylinders but they are still monoblock design. It's meant to be a more stealthy look. A knowledgeable person will not be fooled. Uses stock reeds. (The Wampus gets its name from the Cherokee Indian word meaning “Ghost Cat”). Bore – 64.5mm to 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 358cc to 494cc Super Cub: Bigger bore version of Cheetah Cub. Requires a big bore head and case work. Uses stock reeds. Supers cubs have the option of larger flange exhaust. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore – 72mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 440cc to 554cc Super Serval: Bigger bore version of Serval Cub. Requires a big bore head and case work. Uses stock reeds. Supers servals have the option of larger flange exhaust. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore – 72mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 440cc to 554cc Super Wampus: Same concept as the Wampus Cub, but for the bigger bore Super Cub and Super Serval Cub. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore: 72mm Stroke: 54mm to 68mm CC: 440cc to 554cc Cheetah:. The cylinders can have power valves. Optional power valves use exhaust pressure to open the the power valves. Typically used for Drag/Dunes. Uses Honda 250R reeds. Bore: 65mm to 74.5mm Stroke 54mm to ? CC: 358cc to ? Cheetah DM: Short for dominate male. Typically used for Drag racing. Usually referred to as a DM. Bore: 72mm/78mm Stroke: 58mm to 78mm CC: 472cc to 611cc Cheetah DMX: Usually used for drag racing/duning. Poor water jacket design. Tend to overheat unless on meth when duning. Usually referred to as a DMX. Bore: 84mm – 85mm Stroke: Cougar: Bore: 85mm Stroke: 76mm Sniper: Similar to the CP Industries Cougar. Exhaust Flange Varies. Will not accept OEM size Flange. Reed cage bolt pattern from a snow mobile. Bore: 85mm ? Stroke: 76mm ? Scimitar: Bore: 95mm Stroke: 76mm Caracal: Bore: 98mm Stroke: 76mm "129mm spread Billet cases (AKA Schimitar cases) are only available with "BIG BEARINGS" (72mm). We offer them in strokes from +20mm to +30mm. These cases were originally deighned for the Ski Doo MXZ 800 cylinders however over time CP Industries has produced a cylinder for these cases called a Schimitar with a massive 95mm bore taking this engine to a hole nother level." This chart applies to all Banshee cylinders(Not just CP Industries). Bore and stroke are in mm. Engine Size is in cc. Engine size (cc) = (Bore (mm)/20) * (Bore (mm)/20) * (Stroke (mm)/10) * pi * # of cylinders Vitos: Big Bore/392cc: Directly from Vito’s website: Stealth stock appearance sleeved and bore able -10 ports -- with triple exhaust -- up to 90hp at rear tire on race gas- cannot be used with stock heads unless they are custom machined for big bore or use big bore domes ordered separately Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm (stock) Athena: Big Bore/392cc: Nickel carbide coating. Needs a lot of work to run well and up to par with most people's expectations. Basically a worse version of Vito’s. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54 (stock) China Ebay cylinder kits: Can be found for around $165-$250 on ebay. Comes from probably china. You get what you pay for. You can’t expect much for a complete top end(cylinders, gaskets, pistons etc all for that price). Typically seen on the Bansheehq Facebook group from people who don’t listen and/or research. Do not buy this. Common vendor: Mr. Sum Ting Wong. DASA: Info directly from DASA's website: Don't be fooled by the imitators. Dasa is the home of the ORIGINAL Superjet Big Bore Powervalve Cylinder. Dan Lamey has been developing and producing these cylinders for over 15 years. Dasa (Dan Lamey) has a reputation of being the leader in watercraft development. Dasa has helped to create numerous champions such as Nicolas Ruis, Eric Malone, Chris MacClugage, Alessander Lenzi, Tara Lahoe, Jeff Jacobs, Lee Stone, and many more. Dasa Big Bore Powervalve Cylinders are the only cylinders trusted by Factory Yamaha Racing. If Factory Yamaha can trust Dasa to put them on the top of the podium, so can you! Powervalve Cylinder 85mm Pistons Complete Power Valve Assembly Billet Head & Domes All Necessary Hardware, O-Rings, & Gaskets Crankcase Modifications Required Cylinder Porting Included 12mm Stroker Requires Billet Crankcase Driveline Performance: Assassin: Stock appearing cylinder. Nikasil coated. Designed to be used with +4mm long rod stroker crankshaft with 115mm rods. This cylinder kit has higher port timings for riders who are wanting more mid to top end power. The port specs on these cylinders are 196 exhaust and 124 transfer durations. The exhaust port is much larger then a stock cylinder so peak H.P. will be much higher. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm Assassin LP: Nikasil bore, triple exhaust ports, larger intake and transfer ports. This cylinder kit has lower port timings for riders who are wanting more mid and low range power bands. The port specs on these cylinders are 191 exhaust and 121.5 transfer durations. The exhaust port is much larger then a stock cylinder so peak H.P. will still be much higher even though the ports are lower durations. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm ESR(Eddie Sanders Racing): ESR basically sold pro x cylinders. This per ESR themselves when i emailed them for info. FMF: Powervalved. Mono block design. Bore – ? Stroke – ? CC – ? Twister: Small Block: These cylinders have triple ports and boost ports. Most would consider a dune port. They have plenty material to be tailored how you want. They have a much larger coolant capacity than competitors’ cylinders, and better coolant flow characteristics. They have changeable intake runners and exhaust flanges. You can run stock banshee reeds or YZ250 reeds, and small-bore or big-bore pipes. Equipped with power valves from a Ski-Doo Summit 800. As of December 2011, there have been 4 generations of small block twisters since it was released. They no longer make small block twister cylinders with power valves. Bore: 68mm to 78mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm Big Block: Use cr125 reed blocks. Bore: ? Stroke: ? Trex: No info found Bore: ? Stroke: ? Stock Cylinders Made by Yamaha that come with the banshee Bore: 64mm Stroke: 54mm General Info Spread: Twins Stock – 102mm Cougar – 120mm Schimitar – 129mm Caracal – 150mm Triple 102mm spread 120mm spread 150mm spread Quad 120mm spread Stroker crank limit of stock cases are 10mil with no expoy. Larger can be done with expoy. For larger than 10mil granks, people usually use Mattoon billet cases. Available crank sizes Stock – 54mm 4mil – 58mm 5mil – 59mm 7mil – 61mm 10mil – 64mm 14mil – 68mm 16mil – 70mm 18mil – 72mm 20mil – 74mm Rod lengths Stock -110mm115mm 120mm 125mm 130mm 132mm 137.5mm Bearing OD Stock – 62mm Big – 72mm last edit 3-23-17 8:25am

Hey all, looking for recommendations as my banshee ate a chunk of intake this last summer. Looking to go bigger but i also want to be faster than my friends who are both sporting 421's, what i'm looking for is your guys opinion should I: build a 421 on race gas, a pump gas 472 or trench my case and go big 10mm or so. Cheers

K&T Built 4 Mill Cheetah Cub with Mikuni big bore carbs, Custom powdercoat and paint. JJ&A axle and 3 spoke wheels, CPI pips,+6 swing arm. The bike runs extremely well, starts first kick and looks amazing. It has maybe 25 hours on the motor since it was built. I have the title in hand and it is registered in Ca. K&T did the complete motor package, if you have questions I should have the info on it. Asking $7,000 for it right now, but offers will be considered.

For Sale- 11MM LC Performance Cheetah motor. Set up for ALKY. Vincent Racing has tuned this thing up a bit! Motor runs very, very well. For references, or more info, please DM me. 11MM Cheetah. 540 CC New pistons, bearings, etc. last fall. Motor has less than 1 hour of ride time since rebuild. 40MM Mikuni carbs, set up for ALKY. Big bowls. 2-5 RZ trans. TZ bearing. Drive line clutch, with lock up, Hinson basket. Straight cut gears. CPI OOF big bore pipes. $3500.00 Please DM me with any questions. Motor is currently in Salt Lake City, UT 84020. I cannot seem to get the pictures to upload. If interested, please DM me, and I can have them to you very quickly! Thanks

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hey guys so I recently purchased an 02 banshee 392 cheetah cub 4 mil stroker. the guy I bought it from was kind of a knob and couldn't answer any of my questions. he had paperwork from vitos that the original owner gave him showing the 392 kit was bought along with some other stuff. it has a pro design coolhead with 22cc domes, some sort of aftermarket carbon fiber reeds, Toomey t6 pipes and silencers, k&n direct mount air filters with outerwears, vitos performance carb kit (whatever that includes) 340 main, 25 pilot, and some red needles that must be part of the carb kit. but on the paperwork I noticed it said the 392 kit was for a stock crankshaft. he said he had it rebuilt 8 months ago and the place that did it told him it was a 4 mil stroker. is there any easy way of finding out for sure if this is a stroker or just a big bore besides having to pull the cylinders off and measure a rod? I thought maybe I could pull the coolhead and see if it has stroker domes in it. if so what is the difference between regular domes and stroker domes? also I went trail riding with it last weekend it ran great but it was very dusty and towards the end of the day it started hesitating a little bit. I didn't think too much of it but it had me a little worried. well the next day it wouldn't start. I pulled off the air cleaners and the slides were loaded with dirt and gunk. I know the air filters were clamped on tight and I noticed the tors units on top of the carbs were loose and wobbling around. could this be where all my dirt came from? I pulled off the carbs and cleaned everything out, installed new float needles because one overflow was leaking since I got it, and made sure to tighten down the top caps so the tors were not loose anymore. well ever since I tightened them down it runs like crap wont idle and falls flat on its face if I try to ride it. I messed around with the adjustment on the tors and just ended up disconnecting all the electrical connections at the brain box and the thumb throttle and now it runs great??!!! I don't get it. so I ordered the tors eliminator kit that should be here this week so hopefully solves that problem. I also ordered a new chariot billet intake and billet reed cages and im wondering if I will need to change my jetting? seems like a pretty big main jet and kind of a small pilot??? any help is greatly appreciated as I used to own a built quadzilla and a big bore trx330r but im new to the twin screamers!!! thanks guys

Hey guys, I'm a brand new Banshee owner,that is I'm new to Banshees I wish I had a brand new Banshee lol! I've owened quads since I was 17 and I'm 34 now. I'm mechanically inclined and catch on quick so here goes. After deciding to look for a project banshee I found one within a week,picked her up and brough her home. It's a 2000 model with a clean title and in pretty good shape chassis wise. It has new carbon fiber plastics, new pro elite bumper,new pro elite nerfs, new ITP hole shots on black SS wheels DMC exhaust a cool head and I believe that's about it. The engine is dead I pulled the top end and it broke a ring and trashed the right side jug and dome. I've decided to build a 421 4 mil serval after a lot of research. I think it'll work best for what I want to do with it. I mostly play ride with my sons,wife and friends but want to be able to readily spank some guys at the local mix park sand drag strip. My boys are 9 and 11 and both own 400ex's I also own a yfz450 with quite a few mods , a blaster ,TRX450 and a 660 Grizz. The engine: I went ahead and pulled the lower end threw it on the bench and have it ready to split tomorrow (had to wait for flywheel puller). I want to open it up for 2 reasons I want to learn the banshee engine inside and out like my other quads power plants and I want to make sure there's no trash in the crankcase. I plan to go back with the stock jugs .060 over with a set of Vito's forged super stock pistons and run it like that until I save for the serval build. With all that out of the way, I have a few questions. 1.) what kind of horse power can I expect the 421 4 mil to make? I'm not asking for a human dyno here, I know a lot of factors come into play. It seems 2 strokes really make power easily so Imagine that it can just as easily be hindered by improper tuning etc. i want to run 93 pump gas most of the time and fuel when I take it out to play at the drag strip. I know that the DMC pipes will have to go I plan to run Shearer pipes on it. 2.) what jetting is recommended for the set up I plan to run first? Mods will be ; .060 over stock jugs,no porting, DMC,cool head with 20cc domes. My elevation is 86' and temps are between 40-60 in winter and 90-110 in summer. 3.) jetting increments, On my other quads the numbers are as follows for example 48 pilot,175 main. I noticed when browsing jet kits the main sizes are 300-310-320 etc. Are all the banshee jets numbered this way, when I say banshee I mean the Mikuni carbs. If so is there some sort of crossover chart or something? if not can some one help me out with what stock jetting is for main and pilot jets so I kinda have an idea where to start. 4.) when I build the Serval is there any work needed on the cases like clearancing or anything? Also can I or if I have additional port work done on the Serval jugs or the cases will it adversely affect the low-mid range? I think that's it for now, didn't mean to write a novel but this is my first ever 2 stroke and the only way to learn is to ask. So im askin. Thank you guys in advance. I'll get my profile sorted out as soon as I can. I belong to a few other forums and I know about the whole "use the search button" thing lol. I did trust me, I've been reading for a week. Just needed more specific answeres to my questions.

So I've looked around and there's so much out there it's hard for me to figure out what's best for me so I'm just going to ask. I'm building a Banshee for mostly straight lining and I want a motor that's a beast but will last longer than a month. Stock frame, probably gonna put a +12" swingarm on it and maybe some decent shocks but not gonna go to crazy with the suspension. As far as the motor goes I want to build it as big as I can without having to do any machining except porting the cylinders, which I can buy ported so that's not to big a deal. From what I've read 68mm bore x 58mm stroke (421cc) is the largest you can go without trenching and boring the case, is this true? Also I don't want to use stock cylinders bored I would preferably have a monoblock cylinder, is this a good choice, and if so what's a good monoblock that won't break the bank? Now if you have a +4mil stroker crank I know you have to have domes that are milled higher cause the piston will come farther up out of the cylinder but if you use "stroker" pistons with the raised wrist pin do you still have to use different domes? I want to run it on 91oct pump gas just cause of it's easy availability. What size carbs will be needed 34,35,38mm or 28mm slides? I'm going to run CPI Shearer pipes but will I need the small bore or big bore versions of the pipes? I know it's a lot of questions but it's also a lot of money so I want to make sure I do it right. Also I'll be assembling the motor myself and this is my first time tearing one of these apart, seems pretty simple though. Thanks ahead of time.

I want to build a good fast 4mil cheeth an i dont really know where to start. i wanna knw good set ups for u guys that run in the street or track 1/8 mile no bar or just so good in put. would like to knw best porters, good prices on a over ride, pipes, size carbs, how long the arm needs to be...whatever you have to offer thanks

I want to build a 4mil cheetah any help out there. im gone run the bike in a 8th mile just want to knw a good powerful 4mil set up cheetah. im not dead set on a cheetah motor but want somethin thats going to hold its own.