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I have a drag banshee frame with 12 inch extension in the front with 10 inch extended swing arm and it has a 2001 Polaris 700 2 stroke snowmobile motor I weigh 150lbs but I wanna know what size sprockets should I be running I got this thing off of Facebook marketplace and it has a massive rear sprocket and I’m only 14 so I have no clue how to even get started in this drag banshee world
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USED TO START FIRST KICK NEED HELP ASAP
19Ferro89sheeuser posted a topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Hello I’ve always went on here to find answers to my problems and now I wanted to find an answer to a specific problem because I’m not sure what this is and I’ve been banging my head around to find out ive changed out the spark plugs , ignition coil , cleaned and rebuilt the carbs , didn’t rejet it sync or tune anything yet but it should still start I believe , used to start first kick everytime no effort to be honest , then I stopped starting it for a couple days and then it just poof stopped starting wont start at all even with choke on or off , but I believe , like the last 3-4 times I tried , if you throw gas through the back of the carbs it’ll start right up nice but not idle , Im just not sure what to do anymore specially cuz im not a mechanic by any means im just good at following directions. i know i cleaned and rebuilt the carbs good and im thinking might be faulty ignition wiring OR the throttle cable and the little sync screw on the TORS delete caps , i want to do a compression check but the thing is there should be compression because one day it starts up first kick like nothing , idles , runs and literally not even a full 48-72 hours and it stops turning on im banging my head around trying to figure this out I need to lol i want to find the power of this thing and use it , I got it like 2-3 months ago not sure if it’s stock or not but it looks badass and rode it like twice because summer hasn’t been nice lately but yeah hope someone sees this.. Thanks -
Selling my trinity 420 long rod banshee title in hand extended swing arm alky carbs lockout clutch 17cc domes cut frame Twist throttle several tires custom airbrush drag pipes lightened flywheel timing plate any interest best to contact me via text or phone call 8am-8pm 567-two zero four -2658
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I am rebuilding my motor and i have some small imperfections, for example I didnt use the locating pin for the shift drum, i don't have the bearing stopper plate that goes to the shaft behind the clutch, when i shift gears, the gap between the pins and the shift shaft changes whenever i switch gear. in first gear the gaps are equal but when i switch gear it usually gets more uneven. Also, does it really matter which way the washers and cerclips go on the mainshaft and countershaft? if they face inwards or outwards? This is my first engine build btw.
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Hi I have a 2004 Yamaha banshee LE and I need a set of heel guard tabs that are welded to the frame. I know it has to be a drag banshee guy with a set .
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I have a banshee that was going to be a project but its been sitting for a few years. It has freshly serviced carbs but has a hole in one of the pistons, the Jugs are still good. Its a early 90s I believe almost everything is available still. i will be posting some things on ebay aswell, But anything your interested in please ask. Im just getting started so will have pictures soon
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I have a banshee every thing stock except toomey t5s k&n pod air filters air box delete I was thinking of getting my motor done I ride dunes only I like doing hills ,tree shots ,drag racing friends . What kind of build would you recommend like for example 4 mil 421 serval I want a pump gas reliable build and could you give me a rough estimate of how much something like that would cost for parts and what most people charge for labor ,thanks
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I have a 2002 yfz350p "Banshee" that I want to do some motor work to, does anyone know of a mechanic in the NY, CT area?
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2007 Raptor 700 Turbo, fully customized and built, no expense spared and no corners cut. Clean Florida Title in hand. NO TRADES Motor upgrades: Stock bore stock stroke Carillo rod Cp piston Stock welded crank Stock cam +2 ferrera valves in/ex Arp head studs/cometic gasket Direct drive lockout clutch cover and clutch External fuel pressure regualtor E85 fuel pump modification and steel braided lines Custom turbo kit with a secondary bosch 1000cc injector and a 48/31 precision turbo Tial blow off valve and waste gate, intercooler located under seat. Boost gauge and Afr gauge with a D7 tuner adjust your tune or fuel at the touch of a button. Fully adjustable rear suspension with a chrome +6 swingarm, steel braided brake lines Billet axle carrier and adjustable racing axle Tech 4 trail tires all around Crome itp wheels and street tires also included. Nitrous tank mounted and have a complete system in hand with solenoids (not installed) will be included with sale. Currently tuned on e85 pump fuel and makes 87rwhp at 11lbs of boost(fast enough for me). Can make over 100rwhp on 15lbs and up to 115rwhp or more at 20+lbs of boost! $8000 obo quad has more then 15k invested into it. No lowballs and NO TRADES cash only. Banshee, yfz, raptor 450r foxbody warrior trx kfx ltr
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so, i am having trouble deciding if i should trade this banshee for my quad. and im wondering if this trade is worth it. the banshee is a 2005 and is modified. 421 bore, wiseco high compression pistons, 4mm stroker hot rod crank, barnett clutch, outlander throttle body, kunick 35mm carbs, vforce 4 reeds, cool heads,toomy t5 full exhaust, 7mm spark plug wires, +4 assassin swing arm, oversized aluminum radiator, radiator guards, and nerf bars. and thats all i know about it. the quad i will be trading it for is a 2014 can am ds450 xmx, aftermarkets on it is the led bar, moto works exhaust, front bumper, fox floats x evols, other than that it is stock. is the trade worth it???
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Getting back into racing been 6-7 years. New to this page
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Got a 04 Yamaha banshee. What are some mods to make it faster and increase acceleration and hp
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Hey guys, new to banshee forum! Trying to get some questions answered. So my banshees top end is really wore out and my step dad and I are going to rebuild it but we figured since we are going to put in some work to it, might as well do a big bore kit but we are unsure on some things. Was looking at the Banshee 66mil 370 big bore kit from wiseco. Don’t need anything insane but it’ll be a nice upgrade to my stock wore out top end. So we don’t know if we can use my stock carbs or if we need some “bigger” ones, if so what size, tried looking for “66mil carbs” bc we thought they would have to match to the kit but had no luck. Probably sounds dumb but we are noobs 😂. Or do we just need a jet kit if so what one? Or do we even need different carbs? Also is there any other mods we will need to do with the big bore kit?
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Ok, I got a banshee that wouldn’t start. what I have done since: cleaned carbs completely, adjusting floats, adjusted carb screws to stock, removed old fuel and blew out fuel lines, checked/cleaned reeds, changed spark plugs, compression tested 125psi each side. It will start only with the help of starting fluid, no idle, misfires from right cylinder. It came with a cool head, fmf pipes and what looks to be a tors delete carb setup installed. Also received box of miscellaneous old parts including cdi box and stator...I’m guessing previous owner had some kind of issue with this. attached is video of bike running and missing ANY help would be great! I will switch plug wires to see if mis goes to other cylinder and check to see if the brain was disconnected. Any other thoughts? I guess the video is larger than 0.5kb. Will try to reduce size and post that
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I’m looking for some fairly priced A arms.
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Hi, this is my first time taking apart a motor so I’m kind of learning as I go. My local store only had the one brand of sealant and the guy said it would work but on the back it says that it dissolves in gas. So I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice if this stuff will work or not. Thanks
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So I currently own a ‘06 ltr 450 and soon gonna be sold and I’m going to get a banshee. I’ve been looking around and reading a lot online for the last 2 weeks, as well as getting different ideas and learning new things from some close friends that are or were banshee owners. I live in south Florida and mainly do trail riding with a bit of woods depending the area we go to ride at. And so I have 2 different options for a build and would like to get the forums opinions. As well as any other builds you may recommend, although I’m pretty sure I’m covering the 2 most popular builds currently for my style of riding. Obviously on either of the two builds I will be running: V Force 4 Reeds Cool head Pro mod transmission with modified shift star and shift detention bearing, with possible Wpc treatment option Chariot billet clutch basket Direct drive lock up clutch kit, I know many of you have your pros and cons on these but I rode my friends shee with a 4 mil 66.5mm bore trail port and I loved how it shifted. Has pro mod trans and the shifting was butter smooth and I had no issues with the clutch pull pressure. Some complain on the forums that it’s stiff but his was almost oem feel Driveline performance dune/trail clutch kit Chariot billet impeller/cover and the billet impeller gear Aluminum radiator I will be converting over to dc using the ricks Motorsport stator and trail tech reg/rec Mikuni black fuel pump Lectron 34mm or 36mm carbs, setup for high flow pumps, I know a lot of people have their own opinions on these carbs and many will possibly tell me to go with keihin or mikuni carbs as there’s tons of support for them on here but I like the idea of the lectrons and how they work and I can also see them being a bit more responsive/peppy on the low end as compared to jetted carbs Ims over sized gas tank, many of you don’t like how they look but I personally do. I also ride with some 4 pokes and we ride about 8-10 hours out of the day when we ride, sometimes 2 days back to back and I travel long distances so fuel is a must Now for the engine internals, I plan on having redline racing do my port work and also ordering a lot of my engine related stuff from them. For my kind of riding though would you guys recommend going: Stock bored cylinders, 66.5mm, with a crankworks 4 mil stroker crank Or Crankwork 4 mil stroker crank with a serval cub kit Both builds will be ported by redline racing with a dune/trail port Also what do you guys think about using ceramic bearings on the engine and trans? I’m not talking cheap Chinese bulls**t bearings, real ceramic bearings. What are your guys opinions on these versus the tz/maxload bearings. To give you a brief background about me, I’m not new to the atv world but I am new to the 2 stroke atv world. Also for some 10 years already I’m really big into cars and i build my own cars and have experience around engines, building, rebuilding, servicing, etc. So no need to get into the super tech stuff and try to break it down how it all works. So I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for and a firm believer in wait a bit extra to save up a few bucks to buy the better part. I also am aware of how 2 strokes work as I’m also big into racing nitro rc cars which is very similar to 2 strokes although the banshee cylinders I see have extra ports and I’m under the impression that they were designed to help increase the volume of the chamber before closing the ports and compressing to bring the total volume of trapped air over the 347cc of what it should really be trapping. Hence the boost ports?!?!? Still a bit unfamiliar in this area. Anyways any opinions and help you guys can give in helping decide would be appreciated. I know the difference in power between the 2 setups would be about 10hp but what about how usable is the power band between one and the other. Obviously the 4 mil serval will make more power but how will it respond down low compared to the 66.5mm 4 mil or even a stock bore 4 mil setup. For suspension, I have already spoken with Laeger to go with some +2+1 a arms with some pep pb1 extra large res, zps shocks, for the front and rear and I’m looking at doing a lonestar racing -1 swingarm with their extended axle setup. Another thing, what about changing the gear ratio with the gears behind the clutch basket, and in the general area, versus changing the gearing using the sprockets, fr/r. I was looking into running the redline racing 2.68 or at least running the stock ratio gearing setup from redline racing. I like the straight cut gears versus helical style. Smoother and less forces working on the gear teeth. Of course with the sacrifice of some whining. Thank you!!!! Angel Or y’all can call me by my nickname Papo Hope to get this thing going soon and start sharing my build with y’all. There’s a shit ton more that I’m doing to it but I don’t want to bomb you all with my entire build idea in a thread that I’m only looking for some opinions on other things lol
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Hey Guy's Well new to the forum hello and thank you. So im from Alberta < Canada>, and around here it is all county dependent whether a quad or side x side can drive on town roads, obviously the smaller the communitiy the more legal. but nt street legal. thier is a clause that a vehicle has 4 wheels and a motorcycle has 2-3 , but due to me sitting astride and controlling with handle bars, their is a ability to do a homebuild and class as motorcycle, BUT it can not be a frame already vin'd for off-road use so one must build or pay to have built a frame, finish bike, have inspected to insure nothing stolen and they give new vin. for 500 cdn. then a out of province inspection. then register and plate. i must find a mechanic that is willing to work with me as this has never been done before in canada. so i belive i need all the bassic's , BUT my build i want a GEM so check out the work corellated on the excell sheet, if you change something do it in red bold , and re upload, and give reason for better part . 1- light, (head,turn,brake,license, markers) dot approved 2- horn 3-Aftermarket frame 4-dot approved tires 5- Mirrors 6- display indicators (speed, odometer, high beam , turn, 7- Parking brake ? 8- This has been a few months work looking up each part , my top choices are in bold. Dream BUILD.xlsx
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I found a banshee completely stock even the original tires have life and the original graphics are in good shape. The guy is asking $2500 for it, is it worth it? It would take all my money but i really want a banshee.
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im looking for some help, or even someone that works on banshees in the iowa area. My banshee all of a sudden started reving high. So i gave her a break. Started it up and it instantly starting reving high, and the rpms increase very quickly, only can keep her on for like 20 seconds. Its bad. I checked my airscrews, my i take boots. My carbs were synced a week ago, and seemed to be on point. Might be leaking coolant somewhere. Underneath my banshee on the clutch side, theres a bolt that seems to have coolant/oil on it. I dont know whats going on. Can somebody help me?
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K&T Built 4 Mill Cheetah Cub with Mikuni big bore carbs, Custom powdercoat and paint. JJ&A axle and 3 spoke wheels, CPI pips,+6 swing arm. The bike runs extremely well, starts first kick and looks amazing. It has maybe 25 hours on the motor since it was built. I have the title in hand and it is registered in Ca. K&T did the complete motor package, if you have questions I should have the info on it. Asking $7,000 for it right now, but offers will be considered.
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Hello! New to the BansheeHQ forum here. I recently picked up a used 2005 Banshee. My plan is to build an MX Banshee for (somwhat) cheap! Here is what is looks like now: CURRENT PARTS LIST: Pro Taper 1 1/8" Handlebars Pro Taper 1 1/8" Universal Handlebar mount Pro Taper Handlebar foam Parking brake block Alba Racing Pro Peg Nerf Bars STI Wheels & MassFX Tires Alba Racing Front & Rear Wheel spacers (For Now) K&N Air Filter MSR OAF Clutch perch and lever Pro Design Kill switch Renthal Handlebar Grips Alba Racing Gas Cap PARTS ON THE WAY: Hide-A-Key Key Bracket (Relocates Key under Seat) Extreme Fabrication Wide Grab Bar Extreme Fabrication Chassis Skid Plate Extreme Fabrication Swing Arm Skid Plate FMF Boost Bottle YFZ 450 Shocks (Used White ones. 2004's I believe?) Alba Racing Front Bumper Lonestar Racing 2+1 A-Arms Lonestar Racing Axle (+1 to +3 Adjustable) Lonestar Racing Brake Line Clamps Lonestar Racing Brake Lines MZS Clutch / Brake Levers CURRENT WISH LIST (TO BE ORDERED): VForce 4 Reed Cages TORS eliminator kit & idle screw Aluminum high capacity radiator Radiator Host kit Blue Pro Design Billet Cool Head & domes Billet impeller & bearing & gear Billet intake manifolds DID chain Renthal sprockets I also need to install that timing plate that got delivered last week still. I plan on setting that to +4. Working on getting pics up in a decent resolution / size. Here is the Banshee all stock on day 1: Let me know what you think! Open to suggestions
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Hey guys. Here’s what happened. Driving home a while back, 6th gear pegged for about 30 seconds, then wheels lock up and I come to a skidding halt. Tore it down, and nothing was moving, pistons, crank, kick starter, nothing. Oiled the cylinders, played with the crank and eventually everything was rotating as it should, in neutral. Once in gear, no movement again. Got the wheels to rotate in gear eventually, compression good, all seems well. So the whole quad seemed ok aside from some internal scarring maybe that I couldn’t see. I never went deeper than removing the head aside from the case covers and external stuff. Put it all back together, flushed the case three times with oil, and nothing came out. Clean oil, no metal. I said “this thing is ready to run”! Put it all back together with new gaskets and seals for the head(pro-design). I fired it up, and instantly knew something was off. It has a very scary sound coming from the case. It sounds as if it’s rotating with no oil. Just like a hollow metal whirling sound. A lot of white smoke coming from the right pipe and none from the left.(crank seal?). Kick starter actually binded up once during the startup but not again, but it’s never done that before either. I was pissed after all those hours of wrench time so I said hell with it and took it for a spin. She still pulls hard, just as hard as before. Seems to run tip top, pops into neutral good, hits gears good. But that sound is still there and so is the smoke. I’ve parked it until I figure this out. It’s a fully custom banshee from the frame up and I don’t want to blow it up. I won’t get lucky twice lol I assume it’s a stock crank, I built the engine from the jugs up. Never had the cases apart, I bought a complete bottom end. I’m leaning towards a crank seal or something in that area. Long post, I know. What do you guys think? -
Hi Banshee HQ. I'm on my way to picking up this 2001 Banshee, It is in boxes & will require a full motor rebuild. Asking what are some affordable combo's, I'm mainly riding trail so Im thinking of boring the stock cylinders to a 65.0 What Exhaust, Tyres, Stock Carb Jetting, Oil:Fuel ratio. 250ft to 590ft above sea level Plastics are sanded previous owner sanded them the front are drag cut. I want it to look as original as possible I don't mind blue or silver frame with blue plastics and original graphics kit How can i bring the blue back off the plastics. or what paint can i use and which process is good to use. Images: https://postimg.cc/image/3ki38z47x/ https://postimg.cc/gallery/w3c8ybf2/
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I'm sure this has been addressed I'm old fat and ready too let my greatest or almost greatist joy of my life go . What's the deal with the craigslist prices. I've parted and sold some all and whole banshees . The prices are outrages I know they have too sell but Are these accurate prices .
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