Dark Ranger

Bearings should be rather quiet, so it sounds like you've found the culprit. Or at least you are getting it narrowed down. I've never taken my transmission apart so I won't be able to help much more. Did you get a manual for it yet?

I agree that this is really starting to sound like a problem in the transmission. Looks like it is time to get a manual and get into this thing up to your elbows. Good luck.

I don't think that should wobble either but I am not positive. You may need to call a shop and talk to a mechanic and see if they think it should if nobody else chimes in with their opinion. Have you looked on the flywheel side yet?

Mine seems to take close to 2 quarts to get full as well. The kick start gear and the gear next to it will have some play in them. It is the clutch basket that is what I would be concerned with. Oh, and there is a gear in front of the clutch bastket that I believe is connected to the the crankshaft. That one should have no play in it either. That one most of all I think.

Look for things that look broken or are scraping. Also see if things wiggle that shouldn't. An example would be if you remove the flywheel cover grab the flywheel and try to move it up/down then left/right. It should not move those directions. It should only rotate. If it does move then the bearing in that case is shot. Same proceedure on the clutch basket on the other side. It should rotate only. In my experience if you are careful and the gasket comes off easily it could be reused. I have done it. But make sure it looks in good condition and look for signs that it may have already been leaking.

It seems like you are to the point where you need to start digging for answers in the motor. Start by pulling the cover off either side and inspect everything. It doesn't really matter which side but you need to start somewhere. If you get into both sides and find nothing then you will have to go deeper. Hopefully one side or the other will give you an idea of what is going on. The fact that it changes with a load on the engine does sound like a bearing issue. It could be in the transmission though too. Just a thought.

How about a manual? That may be a worthy investment if you don't already have one. Next I would just call a shop and ask them. You would hope they would know.

I had thought about getting the Quicksand arms but their website seems to be gone. Did they go out of business?

If you have an aftermarket head you will need to at least check the o-rings for damage. If you have a stock head you will need to remove it and check the head gasket. You will also need to have the head checked to make sure it did not warp. You do NOT need to change your oil. Your gearbox and crankcase do not share the same oil on a two-stroke. I would not necessarily leave coolant sitting in the cylinder though.

Perhaps an Arctic Cat forum would be better suited to answering your questions? ArcticChat Forums

Very sad. My condolences.

If you are going from 32:1 to 40:1 you are going from 32 parts gas, 1 part oil to 40 parts gas, 1 part oil. That means more gas, which actually makes you richer. Remember, it's the fuel/air mixture you are jetting for not oil/air.

That is about where I keep mine as well and have had no trouble with it since I started doing that. I personally use ATF Type F but I don't have a problem with 10-30 or gear oil either.

If I remember right the tolerance for compression difference is like 10%. So, if you have 105 in one cylinder that means the other could be +-10.5psi. So 95-115psi would be the max. I don't think I would let mine get that far apart but yours is only 5% so you should be okay for now. You definitely need to add fluid!!! Get it up to the top of the crosshatched area! Mine got low once (many years ago) and I also heard a horrible squealing. I was not even terribly low but adding fluid got rid of it. As far as fluid type you will find many opinions. ATF type F, 10-30 motor oil (suggested by the manual), and gear oil. You will have to make the call. My suggestion would be to decide on one, drain your gearbox, then fill er' up!

I stand corrected (kind of). Most 4 strokes recommend testing on a warm engine. 2 strokes tend to be cold. I don't have my Clymer manual in front of me so I don't know what they say. In either case you are looking to make sure there is not a large difference between cylinder and that they are not too low. If I remember right it has to be 90-95psi to make the cylinder fire. And definitely test at WOT or your readings will be way off.