Blacksmith

I would go with a simple clean up port job, nothing radical there. 2 to 1 intake with a PWK 35. K&N filter pod. 13 and 41 sprockets. Stock arms all around with any good aftermarket shocks on the front. Stock shock on the rear. FMF pipes. Noss cool head with 19cc domes and a good aftermarket radiator but keep your stock impeller. The aftermarkets move water too fast. As for lighting I use the stock stator and the stock light housing, as both are really well made, but use hight intensity blue bulbs. Good lighting for you, and not too hard on your riding partners. This combo will not win all of the drag races you get into, but it will win a lot of them. It will give you really good torque in the bottom of the trails and the stock corners on the suspension will allow the bike to rotate quickly in the tight corners. The motor will make more than enough power to climb any hills you want to. The single carb will make tuning simpler when the weather changes on you. Good cooling and minimum mods will product a bike that will give you a lot of fun without a lot of headaches. Lastly I would run Sand Star or Skate II rears and Dune Tracker fronts. Good forward bite, not the best but the bike will still turn really well. Oh, nerf bars of your choice are a must if you spend much time on the sand. My bike set up like this makes just over 60 horse on the dyno and hauls my 250 pound a** up and down every hill and trail I point it at.

I don't know what else you have done to the bike, but if it is all stock you will see a big increase in low end power going from a stock head with 110 lbs of compression to 156 lbs with 21 cc domes. At the same time you will loose about 500 rpm on the top. All other things being equal, the bike should start better, but be slightly harder to kick. Without pipes and a filter (at a minimum) I would not bother advancing my timing, you will just be creating heat without any real gain in performance.

Don't mess with trying to chase those stripped out threads. Just cut the axle off at the end where the threads start, and drill and tap it for a bolt. When you put the bolt in, just use a dab of lock tight. You will be good as new.

OK, well as we all know it only takes fuel, air, compression, and spark for a Banshee to run. Famous tells us that the compression is fine. While I would like to know the exact numbers, as well as what type of guage was used, we will assume that we do not have a compression problem. Next comes spark. One thing that jumps out to me quick is that I never saw that this bike has had the TORS removed. If it has not, then the first thing to do is unplug the TORS control box. It is mounted on the frame almost directly above the left spark plug. Now because the problem stays on the left side regardless of which spark plug wire is attached to that plug, we can pretty much rule out an electrical problem. If a coil, plug wire, or plug boot was falling down the probem would move back and forth. So, in the spark world, that only leaves the plug. Now I am going to assume that the plug has been changed, as I am sure that anyone would try that before they would post a question like this one. If you have not tried a new plug, please do so now, but do not tell me about it. LOL Next let up look to air for our problem. Is the air cleaner clean? Is there an old rag in the the cleaner to carb boot? Don't laugh I have seen it happen. Is there any obstruction or problem that would cause the amount of air flowing into the left side? Does the left side carb slide move up and down after the bike warms up and that side quites running? Remember that the slides control air flow. If there is nothing to stop or hinder the air flow INTO the left cylinder then we need to check that we do not have an exaust blockage on that side? Check you pipes out to see if there is any type of a problem there. If not, we need to move on. The final item we have left to check is fuel. Because the bike will run ok when it is cold, and because we have fuel spitting out of the exaust, we know that we are getting some fuel. I can think of a couple of things in or relating to a carb that could cause this problem, missing main jet, bad choke seal, bad float adjustment, and I have no way to look at these issues of you. So, my advice, if you have gotten to this point, without finding a solution, would be to borrow a set of carbs off of a friends bike and try them. If that fixes your problem, then go through the left carb again and find that problem. It is there. Good Luck, Ride Hard.

gota go with the NOSS

sounds to me like you have a stator problem. I would bet that it came apart and caused the no spark and something locked up inside of the flywheel. Taking the bike home and apart vibrated the lockup loose and now it will turn over.

Dude, Your chain is NOT slipping. Chains do not slip under a load unless you have as much slack in them as is equal to 1/2 the diam of your smallest sprocket. On a banshee this is about 3 1/2 inches. If you do not have that much slack in your chain then the only way it could slip would be to clean all the teath of on sprocket or the other. What you are hearing and feeling is sand being pulled into the chain and being forced out between the rollers on the chain and the teath of the sprocket. Sometimes this noise can be reduced by tightening the chain a little bit, but not all the time. I ride in the sand every weekend and do not run any chain gaurds or skid plates at all. As such my chain and rear sprocket run in the sand a lot. I have people tell me all the time that my chain is slipping but it never is. Tighten you chain after its first break in period, and do not worry about that noise, it just means you are digging deap and riding pretty hard.

Man, meth in Kansas and Oklahoma is getting so bad that getting NH3 to farm with is almost pure hell. I think it will not be long before they are trying to get us to keep any tanks we have on the place locked in the shed. I farmer friend of mine had two guys walk up to his door one night with burns over %50 or their bodies because their moble meth lab exploded in flames about 1/4 mile from his house.

With a grand to spend this is what I would do: 1) Noss Cool Head with 19cc domes $250 2) T-5 Pipes, pick some up off ebay used $350 3) Trinity Stage IV 2-1 with 35mm PWK $450 4) Cascade timing plate set at +4 $40 OK, so that is $1090 but what the hell, it is close. If you want to work on your porting more on your one, Race Logic sells a porting template that can really wake up a bike if you take your time and get it right. That would be another $100. Work over ebay pretty good and I bet you can get back down close to that $1000 mark. Good Luck

With your TORS control box unhooked you parking brake rev limitor should no longer function. However, to answer your question, simply unplug the E-brake switch from the harness to remove it. The open circut is what the control box was looking for to let the bike rev out.

Like stated before, put the bike on its side. Soak the bolt in PB Blaster overnight and then go after it with a brass drift and a large hammer. Keep in mind that the bolt is in contact with a sleeve all the way through the swing arm. A little corosion in those tight quarters will cause you to need to use a lot of lube and a lot of force. Use a good drift so as not to mushroom out the threads, or you will just make you problem worse when it does start to come out. Good Luck

I have one on my bike, which is ported, piped, cool head with 19cc domes, advanced timing, ported cages, pretty much the works. I love it, both in the trails and on the drag strip. There is one thing I would tell you to look out for though. When running the PWK carb as a single, you need to use a different needle than when the same carb is used as one of a set. I ran the wrong one for long enough that I was about ready to give up on the setup, as I could not get the bike to perform well at all. Trinity has a web page that will give you some great jetting and setup tips for a single. Good Luck

Keep in mind that increasing the offset of your front tires will increase the leverage against your shocks, while doing the same in the rear will have no effect on your rear suspension. As such, you front end will be softer than the back, and your current balance between the front and back will be changed.

If you can handle the hit in the wallet, I would go with the HotRods, but if not just have the stocker welded. Any good shop should be able to do it for you.

Just use a little locktite on those screws, they will stay in then.