2stroker

Absolutely!

Disconnect the TORS and see how it runs. Thats prolly the quickest way to find out if the TORS is the problem. As for a new top end, check the compression. If it's all stock, anything below 100 psi needs a top end. If you're between 100-115, you can probably get buy with new rings and a hone.

If you already have a Dial-a-jet I don't think you need to buy anymore jets. I thought the main pupose of having one was to have the ability to richen or lean the A/F mixture without the need to change jets. Unless the jet size you need is outside the range of the Dial-a-jet.

My name is 2stroker and I'm a Bansheeholic..... Feels much better to finally admit it and no longer live in denial.

BigRed, how'd you measure temperature? Do you have a guage installed or did you use an IR gun? I think your idea will work as long as you dont lose any flow through the system. Adding another heat exchanger will restrict the flow more than normal. This can result in higher temps if there is too much restriction. But it seems to be working based on your initial ride. An aftermarket impeller that flows better than the stock unit will complement your new mod. Good liuck.

Who needs electric start? The electric start topic has been raised before for the Banhsee and most people can do without it. Just one more thing that can go wrong. Dont need it. I've seen stock YFZ's lose to cammed and piped R's. I think Loco's riding ability is the reason he wins a lot of races.

I was in the market to buy a YFZ450 last year. Every place I went to either didn't have one or wouldn't budge on price. The last dealership I went to didn't have any YFZ's but offered a good price on an 05 450R. While I had my mind set on getting a YFZ I got the 450R instead. While it's slower than a YFZ, I don't have any complaints. It starts on the 1st or 2nd kick EVERYTIME just like my Shee. The forward kick took a little getting used to. But once you got the hang of it, it's no problem at all. The suspension is plush. At least thats how I have it set up with the stock adjustments. It has compression and rebound adjustmenst like the YFZ. It handles good and feels balanced when doing jumps. All in all its a well rounded machine. From what I understand, the YFZ is a better bike for the MX track out of the box. If your decision is based on which is faster get the YFZ. If you end up gettin a 450R I dont think you'll be disappointed. But whichever one you choose to buy, KEEP YOUR SHEE too. I might ride red every now and then, but I always bleed blue.

200 mains If you still have your airbox and a lid, 280 might be close. Starting at 300 wouldn't be a bad idea. Since you dont know how much was shaved off the head, a compression check should be done. You might need to run a 50/50 mix of race fuel and pump gas. Oh yeah. The sea level is about 600 ft. below you.

Same thing happened to mine before I did a top-end. One day Shee decided it needed more than just a couple kicks. It still started (without pouring gas in the cylinders) but took more kicks. Compression was at 105 psi in both cylinders. Did a top-end and she now starts 1st or 2nd kick every time. Remember, everything always works fine before it breaks or needs attention. You should check your compression just to be sure.

I made my own bracket for free by using a sheet of 16ga aluminum cut to size. I made two bends: one at the top for mounting to frame, and one at the bottom to hold the bottle. I re-used the rubber grommets from the airbox and put them in a couple holes I drilled at the bottom of the bracket. Bottle sits in the rubber grommets like in stock box. No problems so far.

I agree

Looks rich. Was that a new plug?

The throttle should've been pushed all the way in when you killed it, not after. Or am I misunderstanding you?

Thats what I'm talkin' 'bout I can't remember the last time I used a gauge to check my tires.

Same thing happened to mine. The metal stop on the frame bent forward. As a result, the "ears" on the steering stem no longer made contact with the stop. The only thing that limited movement was the inside of the rim making contact with the lower a-arm. I hammered the stop back straight but didn't weld it yet. It's holding up so far. But it should be welded. I've heard of incidents where the handle bars locked at full left or full right because of this. You definitely need to get it fixed.