lowriderb

im asking 150 +shipping for these they are toomey t-3's, they were taken off a 350 i put together for trails and now is going to a drag set up these arent needed anymore and need to go.

ttt

im interested in the trans. get some pics and whats your paypal addy?

are you needing a stock carrier or a round housing?

im selling a set of 573 series 68mm (blaster) pistons (4mm on up cub pistons). i ordered the wrong ones and needed the 973 series for stock stroke. i put the rings on, fit them on the crank and took them back off. you will recieve them with the rings on in the 973 box (got over zelous and tossed the 573 boxes). im asking $160 shipped for them and can get pics on wednesday if needed.

bump

spindle mounts and holeshots are sold! toomey t3's stock carbs with tors eliminator kit and throttle cable still for sale.

up for sale is a full set of holeshot wheels (front and rear on stock rims. toomey t-3 pipes, stock carbs with tors eliminators/throttle cable, dd spindle mount (5/8's bearings) wheels (new center caps included) with buffed tires holeshots 100 t-3's 175 carbs 70 spindle mounts 300 i can get newer pics once the rain stops if needed. prices do not include shipping either. thanks Brennon

the 4strokes have come a good ways since they did come out. the 450 is coming up with a new nitrous system now so theres a few vids coming soon as other projects get out the way. stock stroke stock bore 450 vs 4mm cub same bike vs bigger banshee (i think it was a 10mm if i remember right)

im looking to sell a set of .040 stock port cylinders, they will need to be bored. they havent been ported at all though it looks like one of the cylinders was chamfered too much which shouldnt affect anything mainly just cosmetic. im asking 130 shipped for them. they are located in laplace la 70068 i will get pics up soon. pm me if you need any more info on them.

cause its already set to hold up to the bigger motors, you dont have to have that clutch system but ive seen 8-9 plate hinson systems with extra weights on the lockup not hold to 14mm dm's torque and show better torque numbers on the same dyno with the mattoon system, and we're talking about a bigger motor than that now.

motor: 18mm or if your going that big may look into the 20mm's dm/dmx: billet cases is a must for reliability, the trans i would at the very very least run a billet 2nd gear set with a 1-5 override. carbs depends on the builders suggestions 39-44's is normal. pipes same again, custom built ones for that specific motor would cost a little more or which ever is found to work best at the time.. the lock up is deffinitly a must as well, the way that they work is centrifugal force pulls the arms that the weights are on out away from the center, the arms are pressing directly onto the pressure plate holding the clutches together.. with that being said, the mattoon clutch system would work better for the bigger motors i would think.

ive found it either way, the extreme of each end lean or rich with either fuel is a bad situation.. the next only reason i suggested that was because the common plug colors apply and for someone first starting out before they do their home work on alcohol can get used to what they are seeing.

another good idea would be to tune in a bike on race fuel first, once you have that concept of the moves you make with the tuning for winter or summer. then the move to alcohol would be easier for you. the bigger motors than a 10 can be put into stock cases with alot of work to the cases or it can built very easily into billet cases and go as big as you want.. of course that adds a good bit of the cost.. a 4mm will drop into stock cases with no mods, the cubs will make about 112hp/63tq properly ported and tuned. the bigger motors will make more torque than that of course and with the rider weight of around 275 your going to need it the torque. like it was touched on, practice it will take cutting a great light alot of the time to make it down the track faster than a small rider/jockey on a smaller bike will be crucial. price out building a 10mm cheetah (not a dm or dmx) 74.5mm bore, they are strong motors that have been proven. ive got a 10mm mini twister and am yet to have a problem with them also. of course there is still the chassis set up, a full chassis would be a must. talking with a frame builder about this they should be able to build you a frame that is set up to support you safely and be light enough to make it worth your money. there are alot of builders that can do one or both services for you as well. they all are very good at what they do as well, most done even mind if its only to call for directions or advice on the whole build.

what kind of budget are you working with? and unlimited budget: you can get into the 3's easy and very soon. a tight budget: much harder and your passes have to be perfect to hit them numbers every time. a 10mm dm or twister could get you into the 3's. on spray you can get to the 3's on a much smaller motor but less consistantly. drag chassis would be a must.. there are quite a few different bikes for sale that you could buy a whole bike running that should be up to the task..

you may already have a sleightly bent shift fork, which can just happen over time. or the clutch may be out of adjustment or if you have an easy pull lever it will without a doubt cause the clutch to grab even though its adjusted correctly.

personally i wouldnt run a air shifter since there are mechaical options available. tony with an air shifter you dont have to run an override, air shifters are usually set up to your ignition and it kills the ignition for a split second to take the load off the trans when the air solinoid jams it into the next gear. thats why when you see street bikes and such with them they backfire when they shift down the track.

tipically its a 2.5lb bottle.

on pingel's site look up the "guzzler" that is the fuel valve that he has and is sold. if you look at the adaptor plate on the pictured valve youl see that the plate is separate and the valve is threaded as well.

it depends on how big of a shot you want to run. a small shot like 10 or 15 per hole a bottle would last you a while. 10 or so passes at least at like 1000psi

yeah, i know that, what size drill bit was used to drill the dumps and mains? .110-.112-.114-.116-.118.120 ect. who set them up for you?

until i bought new intakes at the time (when i had a stock bike) i used two wine bottle corks. shaved them down to where they were beveled and cut them off just above where it came out of the itake boot and clamped them down. im sure there are some other ways to plug them, now i would just buy some new intakes from like upp or somewhere.

you have another pm!

plug it off, you dont have to have the cross over tube to have the bike running..