dlnoss

One of the nice things about an aftermarket head is that it's about a 2 hour mod with a substantial performance gain. It will go well with any porting you do have done. I'm not down playing porting at all but if you don't want to take it that far apart, the head is a good mod.

Look at the plug. See if it's lean or eroded.

The stock head won't hurt it.

It depends how much your porting may have lowered your compression and how much your timing is advanced.

Are you selling a Noss head or are you saying you have a Noss head then trying to sell one of the heads that you are making?

The Noss heads do have coolant deflectors which ensure that the coolant goes where it should. The domes are interchangeable with Pro Design and probably some other heads but the chamber is not the same unless it is pure coincidence (very unlikely). My off-the-shelf domes were designed with the assistance of TSR racing software, input from a few premier builders, and plain old experience. I also make custom domes if preferred. I chose to make the top half of the dome compatible with the Pro Design so customers wouldn't be stuck with a proprietary design which could be a disadvantage for them if they broke down on a trip or if I got hit by a train or something. The same goes for the orings. Even though my oring sets are usually less expensive than PD oring sets, the sizes are the same if you're in a jam and the PD's are available. I don't know much about the Trinity heads so I can't say anything positive or negative about them. They do look pretty good. ( I wouldn't say anything negative even if I knew something negative ) -David

I was suspicious of that. They didn't show up today. Hopefully tomorrow.

A 0.130 step in the dome or is that the thickness of the squished solder? See if you can get a good deck height measurement at the edge of the piston.

That's really low on stock ported cylinders at that elevation.

I'm back. Just got in after driving 14 hours. I'll be working tomorrow although dragging a little bit. -David

It's good to know what your squish clearance is. What diameter solder are you using?

I'm making the heads and domes. There aren't many out there so far. McCoy's, Redline, and Cascade are the only one's I know of.

Not at all. RK Tek has a loyal following and obviously does good work. My Banshee Head business has grown a lot in the last few years, and with the Cubs, the custom dome business has really grown. I bought a new CNC lathe two months ago so I can dedicate one CNC lathe to making Banshee domes and turn them pretty quick. Now the Super Cubs are looking like they may take off and their domes are totally different with the bigger bore size. I'm not offended at all that you like RK Tek heads. I constantly strive to improve my product and customer service and appreciate the support I get on the HQ. -David

I'm just giving you a hard time. I'm glad you have that picture there.

odaen, The head in your sig looks kinda like a Noss head,,,,but my eyes aren't so good anymore...

Like most of the others are saying, solder is the easiest way. Try to get the solder in line with the wrist pin, to the left and right, for the most accurate measurement. Also try to get it all the way to the cylinder wall because the squish angle is usually slightly more than the angle on the piston so the outermost part will have less clearance then the innermost part of the squish area. Different builders like the clearance different but if the measurement is accurate, .035" to .045 is the most common. Too much clearance and you lose lower RPM performance, too little clearance and you get to rebuild the engine.

Call or PM me with your address and what you are interested in and I can quote the shipping. The BHQ discount is 10% Thanks, David

If you are running 110 octane, I'd probably go with 19cc domes. You will probably need different domes with the Cubs because the deck height is usually different than with stock cylinders and the bore size is usually 68mm.

Like the other guys are saying, it depends on your other mods, your elevation, and the octane you want to run. What are your other mods, or the mods you plan on doing, and the elevation you will be riding at? -David

Like holeshotkid said, it sounds like the hose between the carbs. I've had the same symptoms and that was the problem. Changing a lot of things at the same time sometimes makes it tough to find the trouble.

When comparing how well different heads cool with an infrared gun, check the temperature of different areas on the cylinders to see how evenly they are being cooled.

You would be fine with that mix and 20cc domes. The web site is www.nossmachine.com and the phone is 918-358-3804 A silver head with domes is $234.00 + shipping. Blue, Black, or Red with domes is $247.50 + shipping. Those prices are with the BHQ discount, of course. -David

I would probably run 20cc domes and 93 octane pump gas if you aren't competing. It's a good size for recreational riding at Little Sahara. On the other hand, I like race gas and Avgas because of it's shelf life. It doesn't turn to goo like pump gas does after a couple of months. I run 19cc domes and race gas but might put 20cc domes back in next time I have the head off. I'd still probably run at least Avgas to keep the carbs clean. ($3.85 a gallon at Sand Springs last weekend) My deal is I sometimes let my toys sit for months without riding them and regular gas goes bad....I hate rebuilding carbs. I'm North of Cleveland, Oklahoma,,,out in the sticks.

Advancing the timing increases the risk of detonation as does higher compression so more octane is needed to reduce the detonation risk. With the +4, 21cc domes would be safer.

I have new ones for $58.50 after the BHQ discount. The killer is that 2-day UPS shipping is $16.00 Let me know if you want them. I would need to ship them tomorrow if you wanted them by Friday using UPS Blue -David