Jump to content

dlnoss

HQ Site Sponsor!
  • Posts

    963
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dlnoss

  1. It's pretty bad. I wouldn't use it. Like Holyman said, you can get a used stock head pretty cheap if you don't want to spend the money an aftermarket head.
  2. BHQ members get a 10% discount. Also,,,Screamin_Banshee has a used one for sale.
  3. The limitation is going to be the compression at the lowest elevation you will ride at. If you base it on 500' and 91 octane you will be safe at 2000'. If you base it on the maximum compression at 2000' elevation, you may detonate at 500'. What size are you running now?
  4. I've not tried any other materials. Those two are pricey and a lot more difficult to machine. They would certainly be durable. I don't know all of the properties of titanium and Inconel. Do they transfer heat well?
  5. Like you say, the blue one on Ebay is the old style. My wife lists the discontinued stuff on Ebay. The new style head with a set of domes, with the BHQ discount, is $234 plus shipping. Anodized ones are $247.50 plus shipping. -David
  6. The stock heads I have checked were closer to 23cc not counting the displacement of the head gasket so even with 21cc domes you should increase your compression by 20 to 30 psi. The squish area of the domes is also different than it is on the stock head. There is definitely a noticable overall increase in power, most apparent on the bottom and mid.
  7. I haven't done any 'scientific' tests with 100LL av gas. I have run both premium unlead pump and 100LL gas in airplanes. There was a lot of difference in EGT, CHT, and performance. I wouldn't worry about 20cc domes with 100LL or maybe even 50/50. If you wanted to try 20cc domes you could check the squish and the compression and I'd trade you for 21cc if you decided you wanted them instead. I tend to be conservative on my opinions. I don't want someone blaming me for trashing an engine.
  8. I don't really know which would provide a better gain.
  9. If you don't want to worry about it, go with the 21cc. 20cc might be fine but could be borderline depending on some small variables.
  10. dlnoss

    Work?

    Appearance, be it fair or not, is important. Offer to work a day for free to show them you are motivated and can do the job. Mention the Eagle Scout thing and let them know that accomplishment is important. The dedication to complete that bleeds over to other things. They probably will be impressed. Fill the application out on-site. Take a pocket dictionary. When someone leaves to fill out an application, I usually figure it's because they are going to have their girlfriend, wife, or mom fill it out because they are too lazy or they can't read and write. DON'T ask if they drug screen....it's kind of a giveaway. Be able to pass if they do though. Just some ideas. I agree with what you guys are saying about being self-employed. It's a bitch sometimes. I pay more for insurance now (health, life, auto, business, etc.) than I used to make. I wouldn't have it any other way though. I worked in an office before this. Sitting in design meetings, writing reports, and sometimes actually being able to do my work had me pissed and frustrated a lot.
  11. I don't know that I would raise the compression any more with the +4 timing on 93 octane.
  12. They will fit the PD and, with an additional notch, a Vitos. 21cc would be safe, 20cc would be pushing it with pump gas. Any other mods?
  13. That chart is a little on the high side. At your elevation and with your mods, you could run 20cc domes with 91 octane. If you took a trip to somewhere below about 1500' I'd bump the octane up for the trip.
  14. You probably want the opinions of other, unbiased people but...... You will realize a 'feelable' boost in overall power most noticeable in the lower RPM range. The head and pipes are two of the better 'bolt-on' performance mods. A clamp-on filter is also a must on the Banshee to replace the crummy stock setup. -David
  15. It's the Denton type. I'm looking for other wholesalers of the rebuildable ones. So far the only rebuildables I've found are twice as much. A pro rider I work with on some stuff uses and sells these and really likes them. The stabilizer itself can be replaced for about $70 if it gives up.
  16. I will have a few steering stabilizers available next week if anyone needs one. They are 7-way adjustable, non-rebuildable, with billet steering stem clamps. For BHQ members the price will initially be $120 plus shipping. I am kind of testing the market on these to see how well they sell. Let me know if you want one. -David
  17. I can help with a head. BHQ members get a 10% discount. Hollar if you are interested.
  18. Same as what the others said. Sounds like good numbers.
  19. dlnoss

    Malden

    How was the race from a finish standpoint?
  20. I sell the flanges for $45 minus 10% BHQ discount plus shipping. They fit the same K&N filter. YA-3502 I think is the number. I also have the filters and Outerwears. The whole setup is $102 plus shipping. -David
  21. I have 17cc domes if you're wanting new ones.
  22. It's almost impossible to have them removed even if they are 'harrassment' negative feedbacks. I have 1203 positive and 2 negative. My percentage will never be 100% because of the 2 assholes.
  23. $234 plus shipping for a silver head and a set of domes, $247.50 plus shipping for anodized and a set of domes. I have all colors and dome sizes in stock. -David
×
×
  • Create New...