dlnoss

Brian, What fuel are you running? Is your stroker spaced on bottom or top?

I'm here. I get a BHQ fix several times a day. -David

Give me a call if it's still happening. -David

Ken, Coolant leaking up past the studs can usually be fixed with some RTV on the threads before installing the nuts. I also have acorn nuts and copper washers if you need them. (I wasn't including them two years ago). The stock studs sometimes tend to leak because the diameter of the body of the stud is smaller than the major diameter of the threads of the stud. Leakage into the cylinders is a whole other problem. My first suspicion would be a burr or ding in one of the domes or the base plate. Did the head have to be pryed off? When you reassembled with new orings did you still have the leakage into the cylinders or only around the studs? -David

I don't know if you received my email. There isn't any oil in the engine there. I think if you used grease to hold the orings in place during installation it probably got warm and oozed out there. I wouldn't worry about it. Wipe or wash it off and see if it continues. -David

I make them in 1/2", 3/4", and 1". I rarely sell anything but the 1/2" except to one builder who specializes in very radical drag motors.

Are you running stock pipes? Bumping compression up will also improve throttle response. Where are you riding?

If you have your stock head milled, particularly by someone who doesn't do it a lot, it's a good idea to check your squish clearance when you reinstall it.

If your elevation is close to sea level, which I'm guessing for Louisianna, 21cc domes would be as small as you can go with premium pump gas. If you are above about 800', it would be different.

And they carry Noss Heads...

I'd say 20cc or 19cc at the smallest with a stock crank.

What riding elevation?

With stock compression and timing the only advantage of race gas is that it is usually higher quality than pump gas. The same is true for av-gas since, by necessity, it dosen't turn to sh.. after a short period of time. Oxygenated gas would run better and leaner. I would increase the octane above 93 if I had more than 150 psi compression with stock porting and timing.

I wouldn't be too worried unless it was much over 180 - 185 How you ride also makes a difference. If you're dropping the clutch with tons of traction and the engine wound up tight.....

Sandtoyz was run by a guy named Paul Rivera. There's a guy at Streamline Braking by the same name. Does anyone know if it's the same guy?

The Noss Head uses the stock studs and works fine with VForce Reeds.

With the BHQ discount silver heads with domes are $234.00 + shipping, anodized red, blue, or black with domes are $247.50 + shipping. You can still run 93 octane with the right domes. Probably 20cc or 21cc depending on your other mods. I'm guessing SE Louisianna to be at sea level. I'm in Oklahoma but don't do any racing....I'm old, self-employed, and poor.

Damn D34, your tight,,,I'll pay $35

I have the head and domes if you are looking for new ones. BHQ members get a 10% discount. Where do you race MX?

Anyone here race any of the TQRA races in Texas and Oklahoma? Here's their web site. TQRA Web Site

Oldschool, I'd probably run 20cc domes. If you took a trip to lower elevations or advanced the timing you might want to run a little higher octane. 2stroke_addict and bigboybanshee, Thanks guys. I'm glad you like the stuff. That's what makes it fun to make 'em. -David

oldschool. What elevation do you ride at?

2005 Tulsa Shootout Results This is the first time in years I didn't make it out there. There are so many go kart and mini sprint races. The first couple hundred go kart races are fun to watch but it gets kind of old after that. The micro and mini sprints rarely make it two consecutive laps without a crash and restart. I like the quads but they are a small percentage of the racing at the Shootout and there are no bike races.

If it weren't for your porting, I'd say 19cc would be pretty close but it's hard to say since it's been ported. What compression do you have with the 21's?

I don't know about all the other aftermarket heads on the market and would never make a statement like 'mine is the only one that is correct'. I do know that if the design of the head allows coolant to flow across the head quickly without flowing down through the cylinders, the cooling isn't going to be even. When I designed my head, I ran tests using an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature in several areas of the head and cylinders. I compared a stock head, another company's aftermarket head, and some of my designs until I reached a design that provided the best, most even cooling. I know some other companies sell good heads and some sell poorly designed heads. My head has deflectors that fit close to the domes which divert the coolant down through the water jackets in the cylinders. I designed it this way so people could use readily available domes instead of proprietary domes which would cost them more.