Metal_man_Rob

Didn’t even notice this til I stood the bike up to clean the bottom up, inspect, and put the collection chambers/springs back on. It appears these bikes run two chain rollers as well as a poly/nylon rolling sleeve that the chain rides on which is placed around the left side swing arm seal. Is that correct? Both rollers, if that is the case, have been reduced to bare bearings. The swing arm sleeve thing is also pretty wrecked. Wondering if there are better options. Pictures are great, if you have them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Didn’t even notice this til I stood the bike up to clean the bottom up, inspect, and put the collection chambers/springs back on. It appears these bikes run two chain rollers as well as a poly/nylon rolling sleeve that the chain rides on which is placed around the left side swing arm seal. Is that correct? Both rollers, if that is the case, have been reduced to bare bearings. The swing arm sleeve thing is also pretty wrecked. Wondering if there are better options. Pictures are great, if you have them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Didn’t even notice this til I stood the bike up to clean the bottom up, inspect, and put the collection chambers/springs back on. It appears these bikes run two chain rollers as well as a poly/nylon rolling sleeve that the chain rides on which is placed around the left side swing arm seal. Is that correct? Both rollers, if that is the case, have been reduced to bare bearings. The swing arm sleeve thing is also pretty wrecked. Wondering if there are better options. Pictures are great, if you have them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Didn’t even notice this til I stood the bike up to clean the bottom up, inspect, and put the collection chambers/springs back on. It appears these bikes run two chain rollers as well as a poly/nylon rolling sleeve that the chain rides on which is placed around the left side swing arm seal. Is that correct? Both rollers, if that is the case, have been reduced to bare bearings. The swing arm sleeve thing is also pretty wrecked. Wondering if there are better options. Pictures are great, if you have them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m thinking it’s definitely needed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It did but I need to put the larger pilots in there. Even if I turn the air screw all of the way in the bike runs. But it dies at half choke with the air screws 1.5 turns out. The needles made a huge difference. But still need the bigger pilots. It takes a while to settle down to idle when I give it a sharp rev into the mid range. No air leaks though. Did another leak down and also shot starter fluid around the boots and manifolds and I don’t have any leaks. I am thinking the 27.5 pilots will make the difference. Choke kills it but air screw in all the way doesn’t. I’m right in between I think Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty sure I am well in the ballpark now! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No about you put the tank on. I need to get a small tank for tuning but this works. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha... I was just going to post about that. Those needles fit more loosely with their clips and at WOT they don’t escape the dump tube but the sure are close! Lol. Look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah the stock needles are going in now on #3. I do have the 27.5 and 30s coming as well as a main jet kit. After I sync I think I need to do all of the idle and further rev range adjustments with the box on. Sorry for my obvious frustration. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No wasn’t riding with no box. Just syncing, setting idle and air mixture. But not riding around and haven’t moved any further than the basic idle and off idle tuning. Only riding I did was to move the bike from right outside the garage to inside the garage and just that amount of load was enough to kill the bike. I figured once I get the sync, idle and air decent, I can do any fine tuning with the air screws once I put the air box back on. After I change the needles I am going to put the box on and then tune (after just syncing with the sync tool). I scoffed at the struggles I have seen here thinking tuning would be a no brainer. No butterfly, no vacuum , no diaphragm... just 3 freaking jets and a slide attached right to the cable. No I’m an asshole. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shit, the post above was in response to loco’s post. Not yours, hoppedup. Sorry Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Again, I will say, out of all of the threads here, including the sticky about carb jetting and mods, you are the only one who has suggested a lower main and nothing about my post has anything to do with the main jet or 75%> tuning. I appreciate the input. Seriously. Thanks. But you’re starting to answer questions I haven’t asked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The bike was tuned for everything I have on it. The only difference is the VForce 4s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I have the new stock needles in front of me. They are quite a bit shorter with what seems to be a slightly steeper grind. The Toomey needles were in the bike when I got it. Didn’t realize that, obviously, til I pulled the carbs apart and saw that the needles were the same as what I’d ordered from Toomey. The stock needles came with the rebuild kit I bought so I am going to switch to those and start on 3. I have not even come close to the main jet yet as I have been messing around in the But out of all of the threads I’ve read here, not a single one, til now, mentions anything less than a 280 main for the same set up. In fact most suggestions are for 290-310 mains and nothing I’ve seen has been under 280. But I will tackle that when I get there once I know the air, pilot and needle are right. Main jet is easy to change and I have a few here plus a jet kit coming. If anything, I’ll run with the lid off if it’s enough on the main but I’ll have to do chops to see where I am at there. But I’ll try the stock needles first. Also have 27.5 and 30 pilots coming. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m already on it. Haha. I can’t buy the PWKs yet. Have already spent too much and my wife is starting to get funny with me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No... the bike is tuned to run the box and filter but I am doing the carb sync, idle and air with the box off. Mikuni Carbs are far from junk but definitely more of an asshole to tune. I am unfamiliar with 2 strokes as well as direct cable to slide carbs which seem to need more critical attention to jetting and adjustments than CV carbs so it is a learning curve. Perhaps Keihin nailed it on direct slide while mikuni nailed it on CV carbs. Maybe I should switch to the PWK carbs everybody seems to love or switch to a single mikuni CV. For now I want to tune these then post my next question. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just fully rebuilt carbs. It bogs off idle, will die, flood and soak the plugs so can’t start it again for a while. I synced the carbs at idle with the sync tool and also using the windows. Carbs run in sync through the rev range. I am using Yama 2 S for now. It will idle great but it will bog off idle til I clear it out. If I choke it fully it will flood. Pulled the plugs and they were soaked. Idle screws are out 2 turns but still acts this way even if I am 4 turns out. So... Specs and settings: -Stock size, -compression at 115 and even, cleaned everything and have no air leaks. -All of the tuning has been with no box or filter on but I am jetted to run K&N single in the air box with lid on. -Toomey T5 -Mik VM28 carbs -VForce 4 reed valves (cages and reeds) with moose OEM manifolds. -TORS deleted Settings: -280 main, 25 pilot, Toomey needle on #4. -Floats are well adjusted, all lines and vents new, carbs fully cleaned and rebuilt. -38 degrees Fahrenheit, Elev 600ft asl. Should I be adjusting my needle at this point? Again, idles fine but gets bogged off idle til I clear it up really good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

just ordering stock

Good thing I went to change reed valves and cages... So I am not going too far from stock and plan on keeping the manifold crossover but my joints are trash. Wondering if I should just stick to stock with the VForce 4s or should I upgrade to something else? Are moose manifolds better than stock? Should I go with billet? Other than longevity and looks, I can't see billet performing much different unless stock is prone to deformation after a while with heat, load, and sweet sweet oily juice. Again, not too far from stock. Wiseco forged 64.5, stock crank, stock MIK carbs jetted, vforce 4s. Toomey T5 (like from the olden days before they made a stinger/silencer joint using an actual o-ring) and k&n air filter kit, lid on with stock snorkel and vents...

Salem Mass?

It’s a pain in the ass. Haha. My company does everything standard according to ISO conformity. But not everything we do is in house. For example, the concentricity call out should be tagged, not hanging in mid air with the diameter call out. Our prints are much nicer, dimensions are standard and absolute. The print you see here isn’t even updated... there is an appendix. Haha. So no REV numbers. They changed material from A2 to CPM4 and hardness from 58Rc to 60Rc. That should be on an updated print. Parallelism, flatness, concentricity, etc is out in space rather than the usual GD&T datum call-out. These prints are frustrating and there are times I get wild mixes of standard and metric on one print, or absolute and incremental on one print for absolutely no reason other than the “engineer” didn’t know how to dimension his prints in solidworks. And sometimes I just don’t have a print. Haha. Like today. And it is seriously a fuck show. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*isn’t very standard. Sorry. Machinists and Tool and die makers exist because engineers need heros too. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is very standard Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk