Metal_man_Rob

Also... I need to clean up again, Loco Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Watch how I never put this much effort into a swing arm bolt again. 2 days of Kroil, heating, and beating vs 2 minutes of cheap, harbor freight $25 sawzall. Ha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tubes in boobies are ok tho Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nevermind. I was misunderstanding the assembly. Didn’t realize how long the pivot tube is. Now it all makes sense. Like the first time I touched a boobie but different. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right on, man. I’ve honestly stayed away from Vitos since I got on this site. I grabbed a big tube of anti-seize. One thing that is f**king with my head is that I can turn the bolt which makes sense but I can’t move the swingarm side to side over the bolt/spacer assembly but I can’t move the bolt out. This makes no sense. If it was welded to the frame I wouldn’t be able to turn it and if I can move the swing arm pivot side to side, the bolt should move in or out at least to the same limit as the swing arm side to side movement. Based on what’s in there... it’s not as much frustrating as it is intriguing. The end cap on the left side spins but the other one doesn’t move. I can’t imagine that flimsy cap would hold that bolt with the nightmare I just put it through. Lol. I’m cutting that bitch off. F**k it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah those threads are gone. Haha. The nut was made out of apple juice and wasp nests, I think. I kept it on about flush with the end of the bolt. The nut is pulverized and actually jumped threads so the bolt is trashed too. But I’d already ordered the swing arm goodies and the new bolt before I started all of this. I knew it would be a twat to remove so considered cutting it out beforehand. I just ordered a sawzall. Haha. Someone has had it off before because the washer under the bolt head is not OEM. I saw these carbon fiber bushings on (cough cough) Vito’s that have a lifetime warranty and are used instead of the bearings. Ever hear anything about those? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For now I have to get it out. Have been soaking it in Kroil every time I walk past it. Smacked it so much with my 5lb that the nut I left on the end of the bolt actually jumped threads. (I have a new bolt anyway. Going to try a couple of things. Threaded rod through the center with a good built up of nuts and washers on the threaded end. An impact socket over the head on the other end with a few washers. The socket will clear the bolt head. The washers will disperse force. Then put a nut down to the washers and righted as much as puss I left. Have a couple feet of rod remaining so I can put a 10lb weight over the rod and then thread more shit on the end and hammer the fuck out of it like a pull hammer. Then get my car jack. If the threaded rod idea doesn’t work I am just going to start smashing shot in my garage with the car jack. Fuck that Harley![emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found a nightmare under that garbage swing arm seal guard chain roller garbage when I cut it off for the TM chain guide. So... I have seen talk of setting the swingarm bolt up with a zerk fitting to allow for future greasing. But haven’t found threads with results by people who have done it. Does anybody know if the bolt is hardened or case hardened? I am going to do the grease fitting mod but not putting a tap into hardened steel. I am also going to bring grease runners along the length that intercept the grease holes I will be drilling into the shaft. And that is after I remove what I assume is going to be a pain in the ass to remove bolt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha. I appreciate it

It doesn't look the same as the OEM washer but it is definitely made for this same countershaft. Everything lines up. And why would someone not tighten it to spec? That blows me away a little. I mean if it was like 12ft lbs and someone tightens to 15, whatever. But so 60 pounds as opposed to 0 pounds...

Oh thanks. Haha. I stared at this schematic before I even posted and couldn't find it. Like where's waldo

The counterbored side of the nut was against the washer and sprocket. So far I am going to grab a new sprocket, washer, collar and nut.

Found a plastic piece buried in the sweet sweet chain-lube/mud/sand mix all caked up in the front sprocket area. See photos. Front sprocket is junk but wondering if the collar is ok or is this something I should replace. And is this an OEM nut? I am putting a case saver on and switching to the TM chain guides/rollers. The counter shaft seems to have normal play (in and out but no play side to side[emoji4]). The sprocket is worn out, possibly prematurely but definitely in the normal and predictable way. The collar has a groove through the center running evenly around the outside and seems manufactured this way. But it seems to have wear. The not was so loose, even with the lock washer in place and in tact, that the nut was just barely catching the thread. The shaft and splines are all well in tact and show no wear or damage. I can’t think of anything that would cause the nut to loose up so badly. The lock washer was beat to heck but still in tack. Only thing I can think is the busted off chain roller, the shitty ass OEM front chain guide/swingarm bearing guard and a possible shit alignment of the front and rear portions of the chain have allowed the counter shaft to jerk in or out hard enough to allow the splines on the shaft to slip out of and past the splines on the lock washer allowing the nut to loosen over time. Or the shop the guy said he used should consider switching to fixing toy horses for Barbie houses. Anyway... can anybody think of a reason the nut would barley even be engaged on the threads? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found a plastic piece buried in the sweet sweet chain-lube/mud/sand mix all caked up in the front sprocket area. See photos. Front sprocket is junk but wondering if the collar is ok or is this something I should replace. And is this an OEM nut? I am putting a case saver on and switching to the TM chain guides/rollers. The counter shaft seems to have normal play (in and out but no play side to side[emoji4]). The sprocket is worn out, possibly prematurely but definitely in the normal and predictable way. The collar has a groove through the center running evenly around the outside and seems manufactured this way. But it seems to have wear. The not was so loose, even with the lock washer in place and in tact, that the nut was just barely catching the thread. The shaft and splines are all well in tact and show no wear or damage. I can’t think of anything that would cause the nut to loose up so badly. The lock washer was beat to heck but still in tack. Only thing I can think is the busted off chain roller, the shitty ass OEM front chain guide/swingarm bearing guard and a possible shit alignment of the front and rear portions of the chain have allowed the counter shaft to jerk in or out hard enough to allow the splines on the shaft to slip out of and past the splines on the lock washer allowing the nut to loosen over time. Or the shop the guy said he used should consider switching to fixing toy horses for Barbie houses. Anyway... can anybody think of a reason the nut would barley even be engaged on the threads? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I’d uhllergic. If I look at duh funny naked lady movies or during the prune juice muh ding ding swells up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah skeeter’s alright. It’s the 4am part... and I had to quit chewing tobacco so everything is something to get upset about. I need my cranberry juice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t even talk to you when you’re like this[emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is actually why we have been looking at tennessee and the carolinas. Tired of the cold. We moved to New Hampshire from Wisconsin just because we wanted a change, we liked it here when we did a motorcycle trip through here. I used to drive superstock and we had been out here a couple of times for that as well. But we are sick of the cold. The government used to be great here but Massachusetts is a fucking Cancer to NH just like NYC is to upstate NY. They vacation here so they want their rules to also apply here which is exactly why we would have a shit law about ATV exhaust. We aren't moving because of the exhaust laws. Saying that is for the sake of humor. We want to leave because of Mass, NJ and NYC. It's sad what that POS governor is doing to your state, man. All for the sake of the rich socialist fucks in Manhattan.

[emoji23] you just “heard”? Come on now... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I totally get that. But for sure I got it as a literal barn find and, as I said... I’ve wanted this bike since I was a kid. I’ll buy other 4 wheelers for sure but this is what I have for now and when we get more I can do more with the banshee. Or we can just move. I love this bike and really hate the idea of reverting. But it is what it is for now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gotcha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m just going to go back to stock. But thanks for the suggestion and sorry for getting as riled up as I did. Don’t know the shit pissed me off that much. This whole pipe thing literally has my wife and I looking at houses and jobs in Tennessee. But seriously, I shouldn’t have been such a dick about something so trivial. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t believe that for a minute. Haha. If you didn’t buy the banshee for what it was then wouldn’t it have been the same to just buy a YFZ and put the time and effort into that instead of the Banshee? I wanted a banshee since I was a kid and since before I knew anything about mods, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hush kit measured 93dBA in Oregon but that could be bad glass as well. And that is exactly what my argument was is that the law doesn’t say one can’t have an aftermarket exhaust, just that it can’t be louder than stock Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk