Metal_man_Rob

So I can see from the thumb nail that your ball joint was removed from the A Arm. That makes it a little harder to remove. The ball joint stud is tapered and goes into a tapered hole. It’s actually easier to shock the taper loose by hitting the spindle where it mounts using a steel mallet than to hit the stud. But if you soak it in penetrating oil and allow it to sit, you should be able to pop the stud loose by giving it a couple of good whacks. Did the joint break off or something? That’s really weird to see unless it broke and left you with that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Behind the case saver is a “neutral switch” unless the case saver doubles as a neutral switch cover. It is a plastic triangle, isn’t used for anything and has an oring that will leak. They also crack easily, I guess. Drain the gear oil and remove the case saver. Put in a new oil seal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The pictures aren’t coming through on my end but soak the master cylinder bolt with pb blaster or Kroil. It should never have been that tight to where someone couldn’t take it off. Never had that issue. If it doesn’t come off, use an impact driver. Don’t remember what size banjo bolt it is off hand. Worse case scenario would be to grind a slot in it deep and wide enough for the flat head driver of the impact driver. The ball joint... is the bolt stuck and won’t turn? Does the bolt turn but the stud also turns? Do you have the bolt off but can’t break it loose from the hole? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ordering the 4mm hotrods crank from FAST. I’ll have to buy it in bits and pieces but plan on doing a full build over the winter. Planning on the driveline cylinder kit next. I like that they jugs are nikasil and they already have the pistons matched. Swingarm is a definite. Stock swinger is trash. Can’t believe Yamaha kept this design on it throughout the life of the model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Multiple questions here: As this quad is restricted almost exclusively to forested mountain trails with ruts, rocks, roots, wash outs, mud, hills, bumps, curves, etc, I want to build a banshee as well suited for trails as possible. The following are questions that’ll help me purchase what I need for a winter build project. I will be ordering parts starting soon. 1. Should I build Stock bore, 392 or 421? 2. Serval good or is there better for trails? 3. Dome size best suited for trail riding, reliability and pump gas? 4. Are driveline kits decent? 5. Clutch build advice? 6. Will the stock transmission be good enough? Or what should be done to make it solid. 7. 33mm carburetors a decent size for the above mentioned bores? How do I determine carb size needs for the build? 8. The current engine is stock. I was told it has an advanced curve 4 degree timing plate but it looks like a stock plate. Is there other methods to advance timing other than adjustable plate? 9. What cool head seems to be the most tried and true 10. Any other advice, things to buy, watch out for etc? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Multiple questions here: As this quad is restricted almost exclusively to forested mountain trails with ruts, rocks, roots, wash outs, mud, hills, bumps, curves, etc, I want to build a banshee as well suited for trails as possible. The following are questions that’ll help me purchase what I need for a winter build project. I will be ordering parts starting soon. 1. Should I build Stock bore, 392 or 421? 2. Serval good or is there better for trails? 3. Dome size best suited for trail riding, reliability and pump gas? 4. Are driveline kits decent? 5. Clutch build advice? 6. Will the stock transmission be good enough? Or what should be done to make it solid. 7. 33mm carburetors a decent size for the above mentioned bores? How do I determine carb size needs for the build? 8. The current engine is stock. I was told it has an advanced curve 4 degree timing plate but it looks like a stock plate. Is there other methods to advance timing other than adjustable plate? 9. What cool head seems to be the most tried and true 10. Any other advice, things to buy, watch out for etc? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like a plan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where I am at so far. Definitely open to critiques, advice and tips. I bought this ‘99 banshee as a basket case barn find. Had always wanted one but had never even sat on one. Biggest change I’ve made so far is the front end. I bought American Star A Arms because they were less expensive than others. But they hold up well. +2+1 a arms with 4deg camber and 4.5 caster. Toe is set 1/4 in. Total width (front and rear) 48.5”. I ride on some pretty rough trails, tree roots, ruts, rocks, etc so ride height is set higher but the +2 a arms make the quad really stable and the camber has been working very well. I have Elka stage 2 shocks. Not sure if they could be better but they are way better than the stockers. I am running 22x11-10 Holeshot XCT rears and 23x7-10 GBC XC Masters on DWT red label wheels. Going to change to SS wheels I think. The DWs were already on the quad. I’ve dropped a tooth in the front but need a new chain before I can see if I like it. Just changed the sprocket and the chain is too loose to adjust. Went with the TM Designworks chain rollers and guides and a Moose rear skid plate. Had to cut the skid plate to mount it with the TM rear guide. Also had to countersink the mounting hole closest to the sprocket as the bolt thread bosses on the sprocket hub were very close to the bolt head on the skid plate. Counter sinking and using a flat head cap screw fixed that. Had to cut the swing arm off to replace the bolt, sleeve, caps, bearings and seals. But caked it with antiseize and synthetic grease. When I change to the roundhouse swinger, at least I will be able to remove the swingarm more easily. Replaced all of the seals outside of the cases (counter shaft, shift shaft and kick start). Fixed the kicker rattle while I was at it with an added spring. Bought a full OEM seat brand new. Not just the cover. I have the old seat for mud riding. STB wiring harness, deleted the tors, key, parking break. No extra wires. Oversized radiator from eBay, billet impeller, HPS hoses. Got rid of the vent hoses and the overflow res. New brake lines all around, rebuilt both master cylinders and all calipers. Someone at some point put something really weird in the brake fluid. Looked like milk and sand. Got rid of the rock guards. They kept more in than they kept out. Looks better too. Those are things I’ve done so far. I want to get a set of Paul turner mids, 392 serval build with hot rod crank and not sure what I’ll do with the clutch. If feels fine the way it is, just want it more reliable. Shifting star feels like crap though. Shifts fine but something tells me it isn’t a great design. Bottom end will definitely get a welded and true crank with a stock stroke. Read a lot of good things about hotrods. Going with 33mm PWK carbs. More for the slides than ease of jetting. I already have the timing plate but the timing will be advanced also. It’s basically all trails out where I live. Low and mid range riding more than anything. Not many places around to open it up like on MX tracks or dunes. Going with a stock length (or -1) swing arm. The stock arm is junk. Mine is bent and the axle sits at an angle instead of perpendicular to the pivot tube. It’s annoying to look at. Why round house swingers aren’t standard is beyond me. The roundhouse is seriously one of the best ideas I’ve ever seen. As far as looks go... black and blue. Going to buy another frame and have that PCed black. But for now... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just did mine. It worked ok. I used a propane torch on the really bad areas but have to move it fast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the fireball arm. It’s an awesome deal, IMO. Comes with everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking at PWKs to go with the serval. Figured I’d have the stockers jetted for stock exhaust and the PWKs jetted for the PTs. To be honest, my intentions with two sets of carbs are 100% out of laziness. Haha.

Oh yeah... we did. We didn’t go over options using stock exhaust but we did go over running stock pipes or aftermarket in New Hampshire. And I didn’t know about Paul turner pipes which look similar to stock pipes to someone who isn’t too familiar with banshees. so since there is an aftermarket option that looks a little like stock, that’s enough of an option for me. And if I have to, I can put stock back on. Just don’t want to build the motor if stock exhaust can’t go back on it. I have also run into some private land riding options so another plan is to get a separate set of carbs for the build and then switch back to stock carbs and exhaust if I am going to use the state trails where the fish and game patrols like state police on a highway.

Nope

Thanks. Just talked to someone at driveline and I am going to go with the serval and Paul turners. If I get a ticket it’s only $250. They can kiss my ass.

Wondering what options one has if running stock exhaust. I am in New Hampshire which strictly enforces a law that isn’t actually in existence. I am going to try Paul Turner pipes because they look a little like stock pipes. If that fails then I will have to switch back to stock. I would like to know if I can do a serval build, 4 mil, 421, etc. Any of these options available? If putting a stock exhaust back on a build would be equal to or worse than a stock motor then I’ll leave it stock.

LOL, no just been enjoying warm weather, man. I also don't have many questions that haven't already been asked.

Oh yeah, I forgot about this post. Don't really use this site much now. I had to cut the swing arm out but all of that is good now. Thanks, tho.

Getting there. Had a bad coil so was chasing my tail with tuning. Stator, pickup and secondary were all good but the primary was reading way over spec and I was getting almost no spark on one side. Put the new OEM coil on yesterday and spark is really strong. Went back to stock reeds and gave the VF4s to a friend. Put a new pro flow adapter on (the old one was a shit show). Got the a arms done and my Elka shocks will be here Tuesday. Going to be putting the new tires on and running the elkas for a bit and see what I want done to them, if anything. Trying to figure out what roundhouse swinger I want. Stock swingers are the worst design ever. I like the lone star ones. After that it will be the motor. Staying stock since I’m running stock intake and exhaust but going with a clean up port job, wiseco pistons, cool head with stock size domes, gearbox and clutch overhaul and a welded and trued crank. Then I’ll have an expensive pile of [emoji90] that I’ll never get my money back on. Still about a year to go, I’d say. I need to start answering some of my other posts. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess. But I’m not from California. Either way, shit happens. Like California and joe biden Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where did you get that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh dear god I am answering my own post. Well this is awkward. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Star with the forward heim joint all of the way in and the rear heim joint at about 6 turns out. That should be a decent starting point to set your caster. I set mine at 4 degrees. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Running stock exhaust and really no way around that. I understand that greatly limits performance options. I am fine with that. I have almost finished the banshee as far as chassis, suspension, etc. for now my motor holds 7psi for as long as I tell it to and my compression will is 115 on a stock motor. I want to start thinking about a rebuild. Considered a fresh stock build but wonder if a good serval will do anything for me with stock pipes. If I am building anyway, would it be worth it? I do XC style riding and hope to get into hare scrambles around NE. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Running stock exhaust and really no way around that. I understand that greatly limits performance options. I am fine with that. I have almost finished the banshee as far as chassis, suspension, etc. for now my motor holds 7psi for as long as I tell it to and my compression will is 115 on a stock motor. I want to start thinking about a rebuild. Considered a fresh stock build but wonder if a good serval will do anything for me with stock pipes. If I am building anyway, would it be worth it? I do XC style riding and hope to get into hare scrambles around NE. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is it sloppy like things are loose? Did you check for play in any of your steering/chassis components? As Kawi mentioned, have you checked the tie rods and ends? One thing that will make your handling feel like it has a mind of its own is if your toe is out and not straight or in. (In a little is ideal.) but if your front tires are toed out like it has fetal alcohol syndrome, your steering is going to be obnoxious. Check your rear axle. Is your swing arm stock? These stock swing arms are junk and the axle carrier mounting tabs bend with little effort. Bent swing arm tabs could skew your axle carrier and that can cause a rear alignment issue that would cause you to have to favor one direction to steer the bike straight. So check those things. Videos on YouTube can explain how to check toe way better than I can here. But all you really need is a tape measure and a piece of regular chalk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk