Metal_man_Rob

Whoa, wonder why I never thought of that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just posted this question on the Facebook group. Bet I get responses. Makes me wonder how many people actually use this forum. And how many people on Facebook in the group have never even seen the home page of this site. It’s pathetic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a ‘99 I am going to tear completely down and build. The only thing I care to leave true to original is the plastic color (Blue) and decals. Looking for pictures of your builds and color mashes with blue plastics. Basically just trying to steal your ideas. [emoji2957] Also going to go with PT or DMC pipes with a trail build. This is what mine looks like now. This will not do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use Facebook and post on the BansheeHQ page… usually photos or videos or comments to other posts. But if I have a real question I come here because it’s where all of the people who don’t use Facebook are and, while you’re all assholes, you know a lot. [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got flagged for a video I posted of me doing a hyper lapse of putting my rear end on the quad. The song I used in the video was a female singer covering “smells like teen spirit” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m guessing a combo of too much toe in and too little caster is the problem. I wanted responsive handling for the trails I ride on. They are tight and rough. But at speed the quad is twitchy and scary. Haha. A slight nudge and it wants to go off course so slight variations in terrain end up turning into large variations on the quad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nevermind. As I think about it, the scrub radius would stay the same, in general, as you adjust in or out. The angle would get tighter or larger but that line should always ran through the ball joking to the center of the contact patch. If I’m am picturing it correctly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And I meant scrub radius, not KPI. Sorry. I think I have my camber set way too far too. That would affect the scrub radius too, wouldn’t it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I don’t really get squirrelly at all when hitting bumps, roots and rocks. It actually handles nicely in that regard. Perhaps I have more toe than I think. It just gets weird at higher speeds but handles so nice at trail speeds. But the trails I ride on are more for the big 4x4 quads. Fun as heck on a sport quad though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry to keep beating this subject up… So I usually ride on very gnarly trails with sharp turns, ruts, rocks, tree roots, mud pits, streams, etc. I never really go beyond 3rd gear and most of my riding is top end of 2nd. Today I got out on wide open flat trails, dirt roads, open fields, with long straight shots. The handling with my usual riding terrain always seemed fine. Today I realized it was not fine but just unnoticeable with the terrain. My steering is sharp and responsive and very predictable on the trails. But today, in the higher gears and the higher speeds of 5th and 6th, on straight shots, the steering was squirrelly. So I am definitely going to readjust the entire front end. And try to follow your advice as closely as possible. What tools do you use for the caster angle measurements, camber, and KPI? The way I was doing it isn’t very accurate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Either way, thanks a ton for taking so much time to post all of this. This is awesome. For me, suspension means a hell of a lot more to me than speed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are those the arms that Vito’s sells? I stopped buying from them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s awesome. Thanks for that, man. I’m going to go do the caster over again with this tip. I feel like my scrub radius is inside. I adjusted til it felt as smooth as possible. But I want to try it all over and see if I can make it even better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have American Star a arms. Those are 4130. To be honest I liked that they are manufactured in the US but cost less than the LSR and roll design which were what I was looking at initially. My swing arm is made by a guy in Michigan who basically does it all on the side, made to order. Definitely good craftsmanship. I heard good and bad about fireball and Alba. The American Star arms were comparable in price. The main reason I went with the swing arm I did is the amount of time I’d have had to wait for roll design or LSR. They were months out. Maybe down the road I will go for it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the idea of setting the toe based on caster. I set the camber at 4.5. I will be honest, I just picked a number that was wishing a suggested range for trail riding. But even at full lock I have camber. Caster was a little more difficult. I’m a tool and die maker so go crazy about dimensional accuracy as well. I adjusted the caster based on what it felt like but kept them the same. Steering is sharp, which I like, and I track straight on pavement. I set the caster by the positions of the upper and lower ball joints, though. I am only at about 4 degrees there. I would ride and see what it felt like. Adjust it out or in and try again. I am going to try your method and see what it feels like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I appreciate it. I ended up going with the description above and was able to give Ella all of the info including leverage ratio. I went with the stage 2 shocks since I am really the only one who rides it and the only place I ride is crazy, muddy mountain trails. I use 23 fronts and 22 rear tires and with my rebuilt stock rear, Ella fronts with +2+1 stock travel arms I am loving it. I do plan on upgrading the steering stem and going with some better bars. Thought about flex bars. The quad makes it through and over everything, handles very predictably and I am very happy with the front end and this post helped a ton! I dropped the front sprocket to 13t to compensate for the larger tires. Have a roundhouse stock length swing arm now with a +4 axle. I was worried the maneuverability would go south but it actually become much more predictable. Still haven’t bottomed out the suspension yet and have gone off some pretty intense ledges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The engine is the next project. [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well the paul turner pipes are my next purchase. They look like stock pipes enough that most people won’t know the difference. But to be honest I wasn’t familiar enough with the banshee to know the difference between the toomys and stock. I advanced the timing and dropped to a 13T front sprocket, though and that is a huge difference on the trails. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got this banshee in January of this year. Immediately after I made enemies with Skeeter and Caleb ([emoji23]) and started working on it. Spent some money and learned a lot about this quad and other 4 wheelers. Didn’t go for the best of the best stuff but didn’t go Chinese either (except for a couple of cosmetic parts. Have not touched the engine yet but it has some life in it so it can wait til winter. Have plans for the future but wanted to go completely through the chassis. Every seal, bearing, bushing, etc is new. Everything that was on it was disintegrated, rusty or seized. Nice built nests in it. And there were daddy-long-legs everywhere. Sat in a pole barn for years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope. Shot stands out like a sore thumb. Haha. But the heat gun worked on the rest of it. Didn’t fully take the stress marks out but lightened them significantly. But where I went over with the torch, yeah that part looks like dog shit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Heat gun won’t but a torch will definitely make short work of the plastics. Haha. Guess how quickly I went out and bought a heat gun and told myself “nobody will notice”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yeah NH enforcement of “modified” exhaust on trails is highly enforced. They sit on the trails patrolling on Kodiaks and, in my opinion, cause more drama than anybody else. Thanks for all of the advice! Seriously! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Be careful on replacing parts from what seem to be good deals on eBay. Especially something like calipers. If you aren’t able to get the hose off, you are better off cutting the hose and taking it to a whole who can and replacing your brake lines. If the banjo bolt (the bolt that holds the brake line) is rounded off you’ll obviously need a new one of those. Don’t go replacing the caliper or master cylinder with anything but OEM is my personal advice. There are people here who have switched to YFZ calipers and maybe they have OEM ones laying around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk