Metal_man_Rob

Do cool heads actually run cooler? It looks like it was a big topic for debate 12 years ago. What about now? I can have the stock head cut for a 4 mil and rechambered way cheaper than buying a cool head so if there is no real advantage, I am going to go the peasant route and machine the stock head myself. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

My 10yo son is into his first year of flat track racing an LT80. His quad is faster than most of the others out there and soon to be faster with the CT pipe and jack moore build I have coming. But he is getting squirrely right around the middle of each turn. I see the same issue with the larger quads with much more seasoned riders. He is able to get loose into the turn but right around the middle to 2/3rds into it he looses the drift and it kicks back in on him. He loses a lot of momentum there. And I see it happen with a lot of people but others seem to have overcome that issue. I don't really know how to work on that with him because I'm not out there doing it. What causes it and what should I have him work on more? Thanks in advance Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

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I can't even talk shit on this one... only thing is, I said "write ups" not "videos". Those are different in English. 😆That was good though. You're still a dick.

Frere Jacques, Frere Jacques, Dormez-vouz, are you sleeping? Ring the bells for Claude. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Frere Jacques, Frere Jacques, Dormez-vouz, are you sleeping? Ring the bells for Claude. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where can I find some decent write ups on 2 stroke porting and what effects different geometries have and why?

I can't help with any of the engine stuff. Mine is stock but all I ride are wooded trails here. I live in NH. The tight handling suck with a +2 swing arm. I went back to stock length roundhouse. You already have the widened axle and a arms. Your suspension adjustment would possibly have to be tweaked if you're going to do some of the areas here in NH like clough/dunbarton or jericho. I ride the shit the 4x4 guys think they own and always get stuck behind them. One thing I did that I am happy about that most people would argue is the larger tires. I run 22 rear and 23 front. Now I am having to completely readjust my front end for it. The biggest piece of advice I can give you for NH trails is, at minimum, a rear skid plate. It doesn't look like you have one in the photos but you will need one. If you've ridden here in NH I am sure you already know.

You already got a good starting point in an above answer. I'm not a banshee expert by any means but just dealing with the lack of idle issue and only assuming everything else is in tact, there are a few things you should check. How are your reeds? How is your compression? You went from a cracked air box to almost completely unrestricted air with the pods. Get the 27.5 pilots and a handful of main jets from size 280 to 320. I personally try to start rich on jetting and work my way down. Others might have a different way but that is just what I do. Put the 27.5 pilots in and put the needle on the 3rd groove down. Middle groove on stock needles. (don't use the toomey needle). start with the air mixture 1.5 turns out. There isn't really a factory idle setting on the tors units. I removed mine right after buying my banshee. You have a sync tool, right? If not sync them by the windows on the side of the carb. Look at the slides and move the throttle slightly and make sure the slides move in sync. Then buy a sync tool. They are cheap and easy to use. Once you have it idling, set the air mixture. set them equally. I can't help you hear what it sounds like when you have them set right. It will sound like it is getting sluggish as you turn the screws in going toward rich. And you'll get a dry sounding bog as you turn them the other way in the lean zone. You want to shoot for that little spot right between lean and rich. Lean condition will have a dry sounding bog when you blip the throttle, will take a second to get a good reaction from the throttle and your rpms will hang and not settle properly. When they drop, the bike might even die completely. A good way to check if it is lean in this case is to half choke it. If it improves, you are definitely lean. If it dies completely, you're rich. Again, this is assuming you have checked for leaks and compression. For main jets you have to do plug chops and read your smoke rings. There are a million videos and way better posts on plug chops and carb tuning here than what i can give you but it's really not that hard. Just have to play with it til its doing what you expect it to do and your plugs look right after doing the chops.

Claudia=useless Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always interested. I always have access to the shop when I am off the clock. Just depends on how involved it gets. I make tons of parts, build fixtures, jigs, gauges and progressive stamping dies. Piece work is always pretty easy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just checked the scrub radius again and it really does seem the KPI is dead center. It totally makes sense, the different points of adjustment. I haven’t trigged everything out yet but with your write up and this thread, I am pretty confident I can make a decent project out of it. A lot of people seem to give up and convert their entire quad back to OEM or retrofit front ends from other quads. I’d rather set it up with what I have for a couple of reasons. Main reason: I already spent the money. [emoji23] But I’d like to know I can do it. I’m a tool and die maker so the math makes sense to me as well as picturing the results of certain adjustments. I appreciate all your help and time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yeah, I measure the ride height from right in front of the pegs. And right behind the A Arms before the slight upward bend in the frame. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are awesome! Thanks! Elka made the front shocks for me based on the tire size, my weight, primary terrain and riding style and a arms. I could drop the tire size back down to 21 front and 20 rear but the riding I do makes having that added clearance an ass saver at times. I cross a lot of streams, lots of rock gardens, really rough terrain, etc that even the 4x4 guys don’t do. I have never stuck the Banshee. I opted for the wider stance for the stability at a higher ride height. Well, at the time I wasn’t thinking ride height but ground clearance. Many people have mentioned that where I ride was not what the banshee was intended for but I have a lot of fun with it and love 2 strokes. And then on mellower trails it fun to wind it out. I did not set the toe at ride height. Now that I discovered that my oldest boy weighs as much as me, everything can be done at ride height. Haha. I do have real angle finders at work. I’ll just bring one home. Those are accurate within a few minutes. I like your idea of lining the lugs up with the ball joints and doing it that way. When I measured my KPI a couple of months ago (I’ve been trying to use your set up guide to wrap my head around the suspension) the KPI was pretty much dead nuts centered. But I could be measuring that wrong too. It seems like, if the A Arms are manufactured with the intended KPI to remain the same as stock using the OEM tire size, my KPI would fall outside of center with the larger tires. Either way, I appreciate your help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok my ride height is pretty much exactly 9 inches. My swing arm is stock length and I have a +1 wheelbase. I have 23” Front tires and 22” rear. I do ride through moderate to rough trails almost exclusively. It handles way better than it did stock and is a smoother ride. But I know it can be better. The handling has been great for the woods. Predictable, sharp and no where near as demanding. The open portions of trail or class 6 roads are where the quad wants to wander at speeds above 30mph. So I am not sure what my MC is with the larger tires or how I would measure that. And what does Rake refer to. I can find the sine of any of the angle but need to know how rake is measured. My Google search results in attachments used for raking lawns. [emoji23] But considering the rake on a motorcycle would I be correct in assuming it is the angle of the steering stem from perpendicularly to the ground? One more question on measuring: What method do you use for measuring caster? I have just used an angle finding spirit level (really shitty for any accuracy beyond 2 degrees) and a straight edge against the outside of the ball joints. With that it’s nothing more of an eyeball job not to measure some degree of a compound angle. So I say my caster is set to 4.5 when in actuality I don’t know what it really is. Anyway, I appreciate all of this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I measured my ride height I wasn’t on the quad. So I will have to remeasure it. I have Elka stage 2 in the front made for the a arms, tire size and my weight. I actually did do the leverage ratio calculations you described in your suspension thread and sent that with the order. The ride is actually way more smooth than stock and maybe even a little smoother than the YFZ450 but that is a 10 year old quad. I will remeasure my ride height and go back through all of my measurements and post that again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just because it starts and the choke makes it run better doesn’t mean there isn’t a nest in the pipe. If you don’t have leaks, you’re getting spark, even more obvious, your carbs are synced, as you said they were, you shouldn’t feel a noticeable difference in exhaust. If you do have an exhaust blockage, the blocked side will get hotter than the other. This is only assuming you’ve checked the obvious. Air leaks, compression, spark, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My ride height is 10 1/4 and swing arm is stock length. +2+1 A arms. I have the caster set at 4.5 now and like it in tight trails but it is horrible on anything more open. Have gone back and forth with caster and just went back to 4.5 for now. Been working on the kids’ LT80s lately and haven’t had a chance to get back to the banshee. I have a higher ride height but with some of the trails I ride it works awesome. I think I need a better method of measuring caster angle. Hard to get any angle finders and straight edges in there to go off of. Everything else in the suspension write up was easy enough to understand and execute. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought american star A Arms and don't have an issue with them other than having to disassemble the front end to make any castor adjustments. What are the benefits of other A Arms? Mine are standard travel +2+1 and have no real reason to go with long travel. Roll Design and Lone Star make better looking arms but are there other benefits other than build quality?

Yeah that’s true Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You do have me thinking though… what about the other way around, white frame, black accents with red hubs, swinger, bumper and just do an American flag thing with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk