Metal_man_Rob

Start with getting new gaskets for the reed blocks and intakes. I always use a very thin film of oil and heat resistant RTV on both sides of each gasket. So do that with the intake and reed gaskets and do another leakdown. If it leaks from that hole again, take pictures of the bubbles. Also use shorter screws so they don't contact the cylinder again. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Right on. Makes total sense. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Spray soapy water on it and see where it bubbles Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

If it's coming out from under the nut where that divot is that he pointed out, I don't think any amount of intake sealing is going to fix it. If that divot has raised the material where the nut seats, then it would make sense why the base gasket would fail there and why air is allowed to seep out from that spot. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Just double check. If it is an intake Leake, it will be a easier to deal with. But it would be hard to mistake an intake leak for a leak from the cylinder mount. But it won't hurt to double check. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Heading to bed now but I can't think of anything else that would cause a leak in that exact spot. Just sucks, once you dig into one little it turns into a rabbit hole. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

So I wonder if the base gasket is letting enough through to leak out of the stud hole and out from under that nut. Hopped up, who replied earlier, is definitely far more versed in all of this, but, if it were me, and I was 100% the air was coming from that divot, I'd remove the nut and see if the surface under it is damaged. Or if there is fuel/oil under it. Did you check the torque. It's wierd that air is leaking from that spot. It looks like it goes under the nut, though. If the base gasket is bad or the nuts for the cylinder aren't torqued to spec, the air could go through there, I'd imagine. I don't see an actual hole in that divot, though. It just looks like displaced material. But the location makes me think the nut isn't seated properly, the cylinders weren't torqued right or the base gasket is bad... or a combo of it all. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

How did you determine air is leaking out of that spot? Is there actually a hole there? Or is it coming from the reed valve gasket? Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Yeah, that's wierd. Take it to a good welder and have those spots filled in. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

I don't see a hole and it's really hard to be sure about the orientation of the picture. It looks like the head is off and this is a shot of the two cylinder nuts closest to the reed cages and coolant hose that attaches to the head. Nothing in this photo should have a hole in it. It looks like there are spots of weld and a bead of weld on it. Am I seeing that right? Mark where the hole is and take a photo showing more of the motor. Maybe place your fingertip where the hole is. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Shot, I should have said. It's Tapatalk. Get tapatalk, sign up then search Banshee HQ. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Get the app and post the picture through the app. I can't imagine what you're talking about. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

And how tight should they be?

It works when you're rebuilding LT80s 3 or 4 times per season. I don't care what old shit it's used on. It works awesome on old 2 strokes too. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Yeah I don't use anything on the side cover gaskets. I use the copper stuff on the metal gaskets on the LT80s but I have O rings for the banshee head. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Right on Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Thanks Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Ohhh you sombitch! Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

You didn't seriously run it after only pulling half of a piston out, did you? Don't do that. I'm no expert but, come on man... Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

I went with driveline. Before I even decided to do the build, the guys at driveline were always willing to give me advice. They have also been really cool about answering any questions I have had. Redline is also a very trusted name. Stick with the bansheeHQ sponsors and you really can't go wrong. Not so much because they support the site but because they have been the names the big guys here have trusted, literally, for decades. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

There are a million threads on case sealing. Too many contradict eachother. For case halves, I plan on yamabond 4. I see that some people use threebond 1211, 1184 and 1215. Some people put sealer around the crank and trans seals as well as the key on primary and water pump gear. Kevin at STB also uses sealer around seals. I also always use sealers on base gaskets and intake gaskets. So, for those of you truly experienced with building: Do you use the same sealer for everything or prefer different sealers depending on what you're sealing on the banshee engine? What do you use and where? Thanks, in advance. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Especially if the tires are still good and only 2 hours on a fresh rebuilt top end. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

now they are of facebook market place trying to sell their clapped banshees for $9k

Ok so... You need to know how everything else is from the bottom up. Don't worry about the carbs yet. Take those off and that boost bottle. Keep the carbs, chuck the boost bottle. They are junk and detrimental to the integrity of your carb boots. Buy a used crossover tube on ebay. Do a compression test and a leakdown test. You need to check the compression of both cylinders. There are leakdown tests on ebay made by South Texas Banshee. Top Notch. And inexpensive. Also... South Texas Banshee on YouTube is going to be a huge resource if you are new to the banshee. He has videos from simple carb cleaning to full teardown and rebuilds. Check him out. He also has videos on testing electronics, doing leakdown tests, compression tests, rebuilds, etc. And he is a solid dude. He makes the best wiring harnesses out there and my favorite leak down tester I've ever used. So definitely check him out. Before you rebuild the carbs and tune them as well as synchronize them, you need to be certain you don't have air leaks from bad gaskets, bad seals, etc. Then you need to know your compression is decent. 120-130 is stock and seems people like to rebuild around 110. I'll run it til it won't start. That's just me. You have solid spark so you already have one thing working for you. It is all easy. Trust me... check out South Texas Banshee on YouTube and follow him on Facebook. Also check out BansheeHQ on Facebook. This forum is a ghost town, for some reason. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

What do you prefer and why? My thoughts: A good paint job is easier to touch up in the future and easier to paint over but is also easy to scratch up and looks like trash if not done meticulously. Powder coat looks better and is more durable but chips. Once it chips, covering it, especially wierd colors like neon, is harder to do. I'm sending the frame out for sand blasting and having gussets welded on so it will be bare metal. It is going to be ridden primarily on ice ovals and oval flat track. So not a whole lot of craziness. Thanks. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk