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Metal_man_Rob

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Metal_man_Rob last won the day on February 23 2023

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About Metal_man_Rob

  • Birthday 12/03/1979

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Hampshire
  • Interests
    I am the sexy. Make for centerfold modeling for long time

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    Skeeter's sister

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  1. Start with getting new gaskets for the reed blocks and intakes. I always use a very thin film of oil and heat resistant RTV on both sides of each gasket. So do that with the intake and reed gaskets and do another leakdown. If it leaks from that hole again, take pictures of the bubbles. Also use shorter screws so they don't contact the cylinder again. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  2. Right on. Makes total sense. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  3. Spray soapy water on it and see where it bubbles Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  4. If it's coming out from under the nut where that divot is that he pointed out, I don't think any amount of intake sealing is going to fix it. If that divot has raised the material where the nut seats, then it would make sense why the base gasket would fail there and why air is allowed to seep out from that spot. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  5. Just double check. If it is an intake Leake, it will be a easier to deal with. But it would be hard to mistake an intake leak for a leak from the cylinder mount. But it won't hurt to double check. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  6. Heading to bed now but I can't think of anything else that would cause a leak in that exact spot. Just sucks, once you dig into one little it turns into a rabbit hole. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  7. So I wonder if the base gasket is letting enough through to leak out of the stud hole and out from under that nut. Hopped up, who replied earlier, is definitely far more versed in all of this, but, if it were me, and I was 100% the air was coming from that divot, I'd remove the nut and see if the surface under it is damaged. Or if there is fuel/oil under it. Did you check the torque. It's wierd that air is leaking from that spot. It looks like it goes under the nut, though. If the base gasket is bad or the nuts for the cylinder aren't torqued to spec, the air could go through there, I'd imagine. I don't see an actual hole in that divot, though. It just looks like displaced material. But the location makes me think the nut isn't seated properly, the cylinders weren't torqued right or the base gasket is bad... or a combo of it all. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  8. How did you determine air is leaking out of that spot? Is there actually a hole there? Or is it coming from the reed valve gasket? Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  9. Yeah, that's wierd. Take it to a good welder and have those spots filled in. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  10. I don't see a hole and it's really hard to be sure about the orientation of the picture. It looks like the head is off and this is a shot of the two cylinder nuts closest to the reed cages and coolant hose that attaches to the head. Nothing in this photo should have a hole in it. It looks like there are spots of weld and a bead of weld on it. Am I seeing that right? Mark where the hole is and take a photo showing more of the motor. Maybe place your fingertip where the hole is. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  11. Shot, I should have said. It's Tapatalk. Get tapatalk, sign up then search Banshee HQ. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  12. Get the app and post the picture through the app. I can't imagine what you're talking about. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  13. It works when you're rebuilding LT80s 3 or 4 times per season. I don't care what old shit it's used on. It works awesome on old 2 strokes too. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  14. Yeah I don't use anything on the side cover gaskets. I use the copper stuff on the metal gaskets on the LT80s but I have O rings for the banshee head. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
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