JerzOutlaw350

First off you have to find out if the carbs you have are genuine keihin carbs and not Chinese knockoffs. Second if you genuine keihin carbs you should only use genuine keihin jets both pilots, mains, needles and any other carb parts. You can get them from Jetsrus.com or PJmotorsports.com . Go to Sudco.com and they explain how to identify if you have a fake or real keihin carb. They also have information and charts about how jets and needles work. I would say get a pair of 46-JJH needles and start with a clip in the middle.

It all depends on where or who you bought your 28mm pwk’s from. The place where I bought my carbs from are an authorized Sudco dealer and both my carbs came with 46-JJH needles. Now my friends 28mm pwk’s came with the N68A and I don’t know who or where he bought them from.

This should help explain different wheel offsets

https://redo-parts.com/products/front-bumper

I’ve owned my Banshee since it was brand new in 04 and I’ve never replaced my coil wires and I don’t think they can be replaced unless you replace the entire coil. If you are replacing the coil make sure that it is replaced with a OEM coil. So I would say if it’s not broken don’t fix it. As for the throttle cable it’s not really that hard to replace it. You just have to remove the radiator cover , tank cover and completely remove the fuel tank then remove the 3 radiator bolts and then remove the old throttle cable and just remember how the old cable was routed.

Yes, when it comes to the Banshee it has always lacks in the carburetor performance category. There is also other factors that comes into play as well like sprocket gearing and or rear tire size. The exhaust also plays a huge role in performance as well. Every brand of pipe have a different power curve. I upgraded the carbs on my Banshee from the old stock to Keihin 28mm PWK and they made a noticeable difference over the stock carbs.

Here’s the deal - My neighbor has a basically stock 1998 Banshee all except a complete Bills exhaust system and I recently installed a Pro Design Pro Flow K&N filter kit to replace the oem filter setup because the filter was totally shot. Now the biggest problem is the pipes are shot. They are rusty and pitted and he tried to wire wheel the rust off and now that the rust is off there’s hundreds of pin holes now. So he’s shopping for a new complete exhaust system but he can’t decide on which brand to get. He said that his budget is roughly a $1,000 give or take. He rides his Banshee with me and the riding condition is some fast trail riding and open sand/gravel quarry with a couple hill climbs. I told him about all the brands that are out there and I told him that I would get him some more opinions about it. So please post your opinions. Thanks in advance.

Please Disregard this Post! Thanks!

It all depends on the style of riding you’re doing? I’m running a Kenda Klaw XC rear tire size 20x11-10 tire on a 10x10 rim, my riding area is mainly sand with some packed dirt in the trail areas.

Please disregard this post! Local Yamaha dealership had an oem nos flywheel that they sold him. Thanks!!

What’s up BHQ members! I have a guy that I work with looking for a New or Good Used OEM Flywheel for his 02 Banshee. The one that is on the Banshee right now is shot. The flywheel wobbles and it looks like the issue is with the rivets the holds the flywheel to the hub. He said he noticed that his Banshee wasn’t running right and also noticed a slight vibration while it was running idle. So Yesterday afternoon we completely went through the entire electrical system and even checked out the wiring harness on his Banshee for any broken or frayed wires and found nothing wrong with the harness. So we swapped the coil,CDI and voltage regulator from my Banshee to his Banshee and still had the same problem. Then I decided to check out the flywheel and that’s when we found the problem. I took the flywheel off of my Banshee and put it on his Banshee and the problem was completely gone and it was running smoothly like it should be running. So if someone has a good used OEM flywheel or knows the best place to buy a new OEM flywheel please let me know. I also read here before about not trusting that motor city guy that’s on eBay. I would also like to say sorry for the long post. Thanks !

Thanks for the helpful advice locogato11283. I have her running a little on the rich side right now and once I get her broke in then I’ll fine tune her at the end.

Hey What’s up fellow Banshee Riders! I’m in need of some help with jetting my brand new genuine Keihin 28mm pwk’s. I searched the forums and was reading some of the posts and didn’t find any of the posts that has a setup similar to what I have. So here is what I have done to her right now. I recently rebuilt top end and installed a new driveline stock stroke crank. Then after I put the engine completely back together I did a leak down test and it held 5 psi for 5 minutes and beyond. Then I did a compression test and it came back to 175 psi on both cylinders with the stock head on it. I did away with the stock carbs because they were leaking gas from the fitting where the fuel line hook up to. There is nothing really done to my banshee other than some small mods. I ride at my work which is a sand/gravel quarry. My outside temps are roughly between 60* to 70* right now but will probably be going down soon. My riding spot is roughly around 60’ above sea level. My fuel I run is Sunoco Optima 95 octane and my premix is Motul 800 2T off road mixed @ 32:1. My list of mods are below. * Paul Turner Mid Range Pipes w Fatboy 2 Silencers. * Stock Cylinders now bored .020 and not ported. * Stock intakes w stock cross over tube & Stock reed cages w Boyesen Pro Series dual stage reeds. * Pro Design Pro Air Filter w K&N filter w outerwear. So if someone here could please help me out I would greatly appreciate it a whole lot. I know I have to order some extra main and pilot jets from the company that I bought the carbs from. Thanks, Junior.

Look up a company named ARSFX. They bought the rights of all PRM’s products.

I mainly do trail riding in my area. It’s basically sand with some hard pack dirt. I use Kenda Klaws XC on the front and rear. The rear tires can be flipped around for either soft terrain or hard terrain. Try looking on eBay or also try Motosport.com or Rockymountainatvmc.com

I have a 04 Banshee with a stock Front and Rear suspension. I already have a extended axle. I mainly do play riding. I’m looking for some input on the FireBall Racing LT a-arms and there swingarm. Is there any pros or cons on there products ? I have the front & Rear shocks covered from a guy I work with . His 2 son’s race ATV MX and said he could hook me up on them. So, Please help me! I want to be able to call FireBall Racing and talk to them and not seem like an idiot not knowing what I’m talking about. Any input would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks

It wouldn’t hurt to try it. But to be safe it’s always good to be a little on the rich side.

If there is no air leaks then try running it with 32.5 pilots w/ 310 mains and the clip on the needle in the middle and 1.5 turns out on the air screw.

Ok, First off thanks for everyone’s input on this post. The guy who was selling the Banshee had the registration that was issued by the Pennsylvania DCNR. I had him meet me at a Pennsylvania State Police Barracks near where he lives. I checked the VIN # on the registration and it matched the vin on the frame. I also asked a trooper if he could please run a check on the registration and vin and it came back as he was the owner. So, long story short, he agreed that he would file for a lost title and request a duplicate. So, I told him if he does that I would be more than happy to pay him for getting the title. Oh yeah, I did buy the Banshee. It’s a completely stock 2003. It needs a little TLC, but that will be up to my son to take care of that. He mainly rode it on his property. It did start up and ran ok and it rode ok as well. Tomorrow it will get a cleaning and then I’ll check it over. Then I’ll change the trans fluid, coolant and clean and flush out the fuel tank I’ll also pull apart the carbs and completely clean them and while I’m there I’ll do a compression test and leak down test as well. Thanks, again everyone for your input!

Mine usually sits for roughly a week and it takes 2-3 kicks with the choke on. When it’s been ridden and warmed up it starts on the 1st kick every time. I also shut the fuel off and idle it until the carb bowls are empty.

So,Yesterday I did a upgrade on my coolant system. This is the first time it has been touched. I did the Chariot Performance Billet Head and there ultra high flow w/p impeller upgrade kit. I also bought a new OEM clutch cover gasket, kick start seal, w/p seal, w/p bearing and the coolant transfer tube o-ring. Before digging into it I completely flushed the coolant system a couple of times. So I got it all back together and refilled it with Engine Ice coolant. I started it and let it idle until it completely warmed up (hand touch on the cylinders) and added coolant if needed in both the rad and overflow bottle and checked for leaks and everything was fine. FAST FORWARD: Today, I took my banshee to work with me today and after I got done work I decided to take it for a rip around the sand quarry I work at and after a few minutes of riding It was acting as if it was over heating but, It didn’t boil over and spit out the overflow hose it just felt hotter then normal. So, I took my infrared thermometer and checked both cylinders and it was reading 145* f. Before I did the billet head and water pump upgrade it never did this. The temperature outside today was in the mid 70’s with low humidity. Now is it possible that riding in the sand could of made it run a little hotter than normal? I have ridden here many of times before having this problem and it’s never did this before. SORRY for the long post just wanted to explain exactly what happened. Thanks.

The stock mikuni carb jetting is different then the jetting for the Keihin pwk’s. The stock carbs use a smaller pilot jet # and larger main jet #. Now with the Keihin pwk’s the pilot jet # is higher and has a lower main jet #. ( Example Stock carb set at factory specs has a 25 pilot and a 200 main. Then with a Keihin 28 pwk set from the manufacturer come with 38 pilot and a 135 main). As for a good point to start with jetting ( As long as you don’t have the China knock off carbs) I would buy for the pilot jets a set of 48’s and 50’s and for the main jets I would buy some 150‘s , 155’s and 160’s. Then you might have to mess with the air screw a little bit. Just make sure you buy genuine Keihin jets. The genuine jets are stamped with a K next to the jet number. Good Luck!

Hello everyone, I hope someone here can maybe point me in the right direction on getting some information that I need. I’m looking to buy a Banshee for my son. The Banshee I’m looking to buy is roughly a hour away from where I live. I’m looking for a way to check the VIN number on it before I buy it. I just don’t want to buy it and then find out later down the line it could possibly be stolen or something. So any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I had the same issue with my Banshee when I upgraded the carbs from stock to the Keihin pwk 28’. 1st : you need to remove the air box lid. 2nd: make sure just jetting is correct. Keihin main jet numbers run different than mikuni main jet numbers. I would say start with 150 mains and a 50 pilot with the air screw 1.5 turns out. 3rd : you need to see if your carbs are synced. Remove the air filter and see if both slides are opening at the same time. If not make adjustments by turn the adjusters where the cables go into the top of the carbs. 4th : make sure the TORS control unit is unplugged. Mounted on the frame under the left front part of the fuel tank. I hope this helps

I bought my T6’s used off of eBay. It states it on there website under About Us and who we are towards the bottom.