JerzOutlaw350

Jetting the carbs depends on the mods that you have done to your Banshee and your location where you live and outside temperatures. What main jets & pilot jets are you running right now and what is your air screws set at? You very rarely have to mess around with the needle. Also what type of premix are you using and at what ratio?

What you need to do is get yourself either a 18” or 24” pipe wrench and a piece of pipe that is about 2 or 3 feet long and break them loose. Put the pipe wrench on where the wrench would normally go. Also remember lefty loosely & righty tighty. You also might have to apply a very small amount of heat around the base of the spark plugs to help the aluminum expand to release its grip. You should torque the spark plugs to 14 or 15 ft lbs. with either a 13/16 or 22 mm 6 point socket. Good luck!!

Thanks again for the advice guys and I appreciate it very much. I purchased everything I needed from Jeff @ F.A.S.T Racing. I explained to Jeff what I was doing and he made a recommendation and then set me up with everything I needed for the repair. Thanks to Jeff @ F.A.S.T Racing for the excellent customer service and I would highly recommend F.A.S.T Racing to anyone!! 👍👍

Thanks for the advice guys. I’m going to check out what the BHQ sponsors have to offer. So aside of fixing the water pump I noticed when I removed the side cover I found another problem and I showed the owner and I told him that while I have it apart it would be a good time to replace the parts that are worn out and he said go ahead and replace what ever needs to be replaced. This Banshee still has the original clutch installed but the clutch basket fingers have deep grooves worn into them. So aside of fixing the water pump now I have to shop for a clutch basket, clutch Kit, pancake bearing and a couple other little things to complete the repair. I’ll give an update on where I got the parts from in a little while. Thanks again!!

I’m working on my neighbors 2002 Banshee with a Coolhead with 22cc domes. So today while a group of us were out riding his water pump seal blew. So I got the banshee here in my garage and I drained all the oil out of the transmission and then I got the entire coolant system flushed out of all the white milky crap. I found the easiest way to clean out the coolant system of the white milky crap is to use hot water at about 135* or so mixed with dawn dish soap. Then I remove the drain bolts and copper washers from the cylinders and I removed the oem water pump cover and it still has oem water pump impeller installed and then I continued to flush the system out until the water was completely clear and I also removed the overflow bottle and got that all cleaned out and got both rubber hoses cleaned out as well. So now my question is What’s The Best Water Pump Rebuild Option Parts Wise?

D.I.D is a really good brand of chain and they do come on some of your major brands of dirt bikes as a OEM chain. The downside of the brand is the price. There is other brands of chains that are just as good as D.I.D at a less expensive prices and they hold up hold up just as well. You can check out these companies Motosport.com or Rockymountainatvmc.com and see what they have to offer. Just make sure that you replace both front and rear sprockets when buying a new chain ( it would be senseless and a waste of money to put a new chain on old worn out sprockets ) and also check for worn out drive line parts like upper & lower chain rollers, chain slider and the rear chain guide. Also if you don’t have one yet make sure you look into purchasing a case saver because banshees are prone to chain wack.

I use RMATV’s Primary Drive 520 ORH X-Ring Chain. I also use Primary Drive Steel front sprocket and Steel rear sprocket. As for other drive parts I use TM Designworks powerlip upper & lower chain rollers, TM Designworks chain slider and TM Designworks dual roller rear chain guide. I haven’t had any issues with any of these products as long as you keep everything clean, lubricated and adjusted properly.

They could be either older Lonestar Racing a-arms or they could also be made by American Star Racing. These companies are always changing the appearance of their products as the years go on.

@arttt Try changing your gearing. I’m somewhat on the heavy side at 230-235 lbs and I’m running a 15 tooth front sprocket and a 40 tooth rear sprocket with 20” rear tires. When I launch in 2nd gear it doesn’t matter if I’m on hard pack or in soft sand my front end will rise off the ground.

I forgot to mention this in my previous post. You can also do this! *** A guy that I ride with had the CDI go bad on his 95 and he bought a used CDI from a 02 and he cut the ends off the 95 CDI and then he cut off the ends off the 02 CDI and he spliced, soldered and heat shrunk the 95 plugs onto the 02 CDI and his banshee has been running perfectly fine since. ***

OEM ONLY! Don’t waste your time or money buying a JUNK aftermarket replacement. STAY AWAY FROM ANYTHING FROM VITO’S PERFORMANCE. You’ve been warned! Try contacting Redo-parts.com He sells new and used banshee parts at a reasonable price.

The easiest way I find to do it is with a small glass jar with the lid and about 2 ft of 1/8 hose. First fill the rear brake reservoir with brake fluid and put the diaphragm and lid back on. Then fill the jar half way with DOT 4 brake fluid then I pop a hole in the lid the same size as the hose and feed the hose through the hole in the lid and make sure the hose is submerged in the brake fluid. Then I stick the other end of the hose on the tip of the bleeder then crack the bleeder open. Put the jar on the floor in a spot where you can see it while you are pumping the rear brake pedal. Then pump the brake pedal until it builds up pressure then close the bleeder. While you’re pumping the back brakes you will see bubbles coming out of the submerged end of the hose and that’s just the air coming out of the system. Also keep an eye on the reservoir as well.

** Damn autocorrect it’s Resistor not Resister. **

You might want to consider changing the spark plug boots. The early year banshees had and used a non- resister spark plug B8ES and the part that unscrewed from the inside of the spark plug boot was the resister. The newer banshees don’t have the resister inside the spark plug boots because they uses resister spark plug BR8ES . This might help as well.

What’s up my fellow Banshee owners! ( I know that I might get a few crack remarks about this post). My banshee is coming up to being 20 years old and I have never changed the front and rear brake pads on it. I was out riding her recently and noticed that the front and rear brakes were mushy so I figured it was nothing majorly wrong and then I decided to inspect them while doing some routine maintenance on her. I found that both front and rear brake pads are pretty much worn out. My rotors are pretty clean and straight with no signs of warping. I would like everyone’s opinion on what brand brake pads are good to use? I am looking at either buying OEM, EBC or DP brake pads. Thanks !

Sorry, I was typing to fast but My Banshee vin starts with JY43GG***********.

It should be stamped with 2 letters and a number then 3GG and then 11 numbers and a letter after that. Example my banshee vin start with JYA3GG***********.

To save yourself from a massive headache only buy OEM replacement electrical parts. Yes the OEM parts are expensive as fu*k but it’s better then playing games with junk aftermarket electrical parts. Also if you know someone who has a Banshee that is the same year as yours you can try switching the parts out. You also might want to check your switch that’s on the handle bar to see if that switch didn’t go bad or even if you still have the key switch to see if that didn’t go bad also.

I rebuilt my 04 for the first time back in October 2022. All I did for my rebuild was a Driveline stock stroke crankshaft that’s true & welded with OEM crank seals. My cylinders are not Ported and are bored .020 with stock head. I’m running Pro X pistons and Pro X complete gasket kit with Mac Daddy Racing complete billet high flow water pump kit with billet water pump gear. My only mods at the moment are pipes, carbs, reeds and air filter. All I can say is she rips for my riding style and I don’t have to worry about the others that I ride with. I’m happy where it’s at and I’m gonna leave it where it’s at…

We all know the OEM stator is expensive AF but there is nothing you can really do. As for an aftermarket stator I would trust a Ricky Stator over a Vito’s Performance stator any day of the week. About 3-1/2 years ago I bought a Ricky Stator with the adjustable timing plate for a neighbor’s banshee that I was working on and till this day he hadn’t had a problem with the stator other than the flywheel went bad a few months ago.

Sounds like you have something still wet or you might want to remove the stator cover and look to see if there’s any water or moisture inside the stator cover.

Vitos Performance = JUNK! You need to get yourself a OEM stator.

What size main jets and pilot/slow jets do you have in the carbs right now and where’s your air screw set at? When it comes to tuning your carbs try doing one thing at a time and write down your changes so you don’t get yourself confused. You also have to look at your altitude and outside air temperature because they play a huge factor in being able to tune your carb properly. Keep in mind when you have hot and humid air temperatures outside then it will cause it to run rich and when you have cool or cold dry air temperatures outside it will cause it to run lean. It took me forever to get my 28mm pwk keihin carbs tuned and now it runs like a well oiled machine.

Motul factory line 800 2t off road mixed 50:1 with 91 octane ethanol free gas. It smells like cherry cough syrup.

You should be using either Yamalube Trans Oil Plus or Bel-Ray Gear Saver 80wt.