JerzOutlaw350

@Tedder Thanks for the great advice. I got the parts that I needed to get this Banshee up and running. I got the parts from F.A.S.T and they gave me a good deal on the parts. @HeavyHauler I contacted Chariot Performance and they wouldn’t price match the price that I got from FAST.

First off Welcome to BHQ there’s plenty of useful information that can be found here. From what you are describing in your post It sounds like you have either a jetting problem or possibly something a little more. Have you done a compression test or a leak down test? What’s your current altitude and your current outside temperature? What type of fuel are you using and what type of premix are you using and at what ratio? As for jetting I can only suggest a starting point. First off you have to look to see if your carburetors are synced. Then check the float height. It should be set at 20-22mm. Then take the clip and put it on the middle groove on the needle and then screw the air screw all the way in until it is lightly seated and back it out 2 turns. You need to get yourself some jets. For main jets get some 270’s, 280’s, 290’s, 300’s and 310’s and get yourself 2- 27.5 pilot jets. When it comes to jetting it always best to start out rich and work your way down and doing plug chops and checking your spark plugs is important.

Good Afternoon Guys, I’m working on a neighbors 1998 Banshee. It has Pro Circuit pipes and silencers, Genuine Keihin 28mm PWK’s , Pro Design Pro-Flow filter kit with K&N filter and outerwear. Last Saturday he went out riding and when he was done he noticed that there was an extreme amount of dust buildup around the intake area. So not thinking he took his banshee to the local Yamaha dealership and they didn’t even take it out of the back of his truck and they told him it would cost about a $1,000 to fix it without really looking at it. So today he came and seen me about fixing it for him. So I took the banshee and power washed it to get all the dust off it. I then went on and did a compression test and it checked out fine. Both cylinders were around 130 psi. I then did a leak down test and that’s when I found that all around the intakes are leaking. So I took it apart and this banshee still has the stock intake boots with a slight crack buy the crossover tube and it also still has the stock reed cages and stock reed pedals with the pedal stops still installed. The factory intake gaskets were hard and very brittle. I checked the reed valve and there’s no signs of warping. The reed pedals seem to be fine with no damage to the pedals themselves but they seem to be very flimsy. I asked him if he ever had them changed before and he said they have never been replaced. So I asked him what he wants to do and what is his budget to fix it. His budget is roughly $375.00 to fix it. So what are your thoughts and opinions on repairing this banshee?

When you cleaned and rebuilt the carburetors did you take them apart one at a time? If you took them both apart at the same time, you could have gotten the float bowls mixed up. The way you will know is that the float bowl with what looks like a small brass BB molded into it goes on the carburetor with the choke knob on it. Did you reinstall the rubber hose that goes between the two carburetors that connects the choke circuit together on the carburetors? When putting it back together did you install the carb slides into the right carburetors? It’s easy to get them mixed up and put the wrong slides in the wrong carbs. If you remove the carb slides and look at the slides there is a groove in them that rides on a guide pin down inside the carb body. Then there’s a little white dot on each of the slides. If you look closely at the both carburetor bodies (standing on the kick start side) you should see on each one of the carburetors a small glass window on the carburetor body. When the slides are installed properly you will be able see the little white dots through the little glass window on the side of the carb bodies and that the small cutaways on the carbs slides should be facing towards the rear of the banshee. Also the small white dots on the slides are for syncing the carbs. When you installed the new throttle cable to the TORS units on top of the each of the carburetors there’s 2 nuts on each side 1 is for adjusting/syncing the cable and the other nut is just a locknut. You will have to first adjust the cable until it becomes slightly tight buy watching the slides and when they slightly start to move then don’t adjust anymore. Then to sync the carbs you need to push on the throttle and look at the glass window on carburetor on the right side and when you see the white dot in the glass window that carburetor is synced, but you might have to adjust the cable a little more until the white dot is completely centered in the glass window. Then you can tighten the locknut on that side. Then release the throttle and then check it again and readjust if needed. Then repeat the same process on the left side as you did on the right side. When you see both white dots centered in the glass windows at the same time that means that the carburetors are synced.

@krusty I don’t know how familiar you are with the diesel truck world but the adjustment dial that’s on your CDI that you are inquiring about is like having a TS performance 6 position chip on your Banshee. The dial is more than likely for adjusting either the increase of spark, changing of the timing curve or increasing the rev limit.

When it comes to replacing any of the electrical components ( Flywheel, Stator, Ignition coil, Voltage regulator and CDI unit) should only be replaced with OEM Yamaha parts. Everything else is absolute garbage!! I know plenty of people who went and spent hundreds of dollars buying the china garbage and now they finally learned their lesson and bought OEM Yamaha parts and haven’t had anymore problems.

First off you have to determine if you’re dealing with paint or powder coat. Go to either Lowe’s, Home Depot or any of your local paint stores and buy some paint stripper. Then use some cotton swabs and only use the stripper where the VIN #’s are stamped. If the numbers on the frame and engine match with what’s on the title then you got lucky and if they don’t then have those numbers checked out and if it doesn’t come back as stolen then you can just sell it with a BOS or even better with a notarized BOS.

Click on the BansheeHQ sponsor banner at the top of the page. There’s a couple engine builders on the list. Call them and talk to them about what you’re looking to do.

Investigate it better. Did you smell it? It could be the premix leaking from your carburetors that is running down through the center drain hole that’s in the cases. If it’s trans oil then you will have to split the cases and reseal it.

It sounds like the bearings in the bearing carrier are starting to seize up from heat and probably a lack of lubricant and when it sits and cools off the problem goes away. You have to get grease gun and a couple tubes of grease that is made to be used for bearings. All purpose grease will not work because bearing grease can withstand the heat a lot better than all purpose grease. A unlubed chain can become stiff cause chain drag. You need to find a good chain lube that doesn’t attract the sand and your chain should be cleaned, inspected and lubed often.

I just replaced the caliper boot on the guy who lives down the street from me this past weekend. It took a lot of patience and a good amount of dawn soap and it popped in without damaging it. As for the bearing carrier. You have to find out what brand of swing arm you have. Sometimes with the round house swing arms the bearing carriers are universal. I was asked by the same guy that I fixed his rear brake caliper for if I could rebuild his lone star dual row bearing carrier and I was looking at the rebuild kit from LSR and for what the rebuild kit cost it would be more feasible to just buy a brand new bearing carrier.

Does Banshee parts still sell really well ? The reason why I’m asking is because I bought a Banshee to help my neighbor replace his rotted out Banshee frame. The Banshee that going to be for parts is a 04 Banshee that is basically stock but does have a few aftermarket parts. I just got done giving it to really good power wash cleaning and then I’m going to go completely over it before I list anything for sale. It’s going to be a “PART OUT”in the next couple weeks. Thanks!!

@reggiexp This company might be able to help you with what you’re looking for. https://www.atvsonly.co.uk/collections/banshee I’m from here in the United States. Parts over here are some what available but they are expensive right now.

@DonJuan I’ll break it down for you. With a 10x6 wheel. The 10 means the rim size and the 6 means the width of the rim. Here is an example. Let’s just say you bought a tire in this size 18.0 X 5.5-10. So it would work like this. The 18.0 would be the outside diameter of the tire and the 5.5 would be the width of the tire and the 10 is the rim size. So if the new tires you have bought say ??.0 x 5.5-10 then YES they will fit on your stock banshee rims.

Depending on if you’re planning to do some riding this weekend then the best thing to do is go your local dealership and get some of the Motion Pro Gray Tygon fuel line. I would suggest buying at least 3ft of it. Then if you’re looking for the clean look of the OEM fuel lines then check out either https://www.motosport.com/ or https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ and look under OEM parts for the 3 fuel lines that you need.

Have you ever replaced the oem fuel hoses going to the cabs? As the fuel hoses age they tend to get stiff and then they begin to leak because they lose their grip on the fittings. Check the fuel hoses before you do anything.

Even though this is for link is for Keihin carburetors this will explain and help you properly jet your carburetors. When it comes to jetting your carburetors it takes a lot time and plenty of patiences to get them properly tuned. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5be4d5b35ffd2095efa9bdff/t/5bf1a09b6d2a7391b5a84730/1542561947962/KeihinCarbJetting-2015.pdf

Even though this is for link is for Keihin carburetors this will explain and help you properly jet your carburetors. When it comes to jetting your carburetors it takes a lot time and plenty of patiences to get them properly tuned. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5be4d5b35ffd2095efa9bdff/t/5bf1a09b6d2a7391b5a84730/1542561947962/KeihinCarbJetting-2015.pdf

What’s your outside temperature and humidity? Sometimes just a little bit of change in elevation can make a difference as well. These 3 factors listed above play a huge part in your jetting. What are the current carburetor settings mains, pilots, clip on the needle and how many turns “OUT”on the air screw from the seated position? What type of fuel are you using and at what fuel/oil ratio are you using? Please report back with more detail information.

These people say that they have 4 in stock. I don’t know how true it is but this might help. https://www.unitedoutdoorsupply.com/product/keihin-jet-needle-cel/

Give this company a call. I’ve used them in the past for the hard to find keihin carburetor parts. http://www.pjmotorsports.com/index.html

The most common spot are the cylinder base gaskets, reed gaskets, carburetor boots, or the crank seals. If your Banshee starts up and idles then you can check the top end with just a can of starting fluid and spray around the cylinder base gaskets, around the reed gaskets and carburetor boots. The starting fluid will find the leak in those areas and with the engine idling it will let you know where the leak is. For the crank seals you will need to do a leak down test. You can go to YouTube South Texas Banshee and look for Banshee leak down test or you can contact him at SouthTexasBanshee.com he sells a leak down test kit or you can build your own with a few items that can be purchased at your local hardware store, Home Depot or Lowes.

Please disregard this wanted post. I found a donor banshee and I will probably have a ton of parts for sale. So I will post an update in a couple of days with a list everything that’s for sale.

When you had the 30 pilots in did you ever try it with the air box lid on ? What type of riding conditions are you riding in that requires the air box lid ?

The picture of the J-arm spindle / knuckle that you posted “ IS “ for the model year 87-89 which requires part # 1UY-23501-01-00 Left Side & 1UY-23502-01-00 Right Side. Then for the A-arm spindle / knuckle for the model year 90-06 which requires part # 3GD-23501-10-00 Left Side & 3GD-23502-10-00 Right Side. Here is a picture of what the spindle / knuckle looks like for the 90-06 Banshee. The picture that I posted is from a 1997 Banshee that Im currently working on for a friend. If you look the picture that you posted and compare it to the picture that I posted you can definitely see the difference between the spindles. I also circled the caliper bracket bolts in my picture to show how the spacing is different from the 87-89 Banshee in your photo and the 90-06 Banshee that is in the photo that I posted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk