Qliphoth

i removed the flywheel too for the first time in the last week. i used the puller, a long pipe wrench to hold the puller while the handle was leaned against the floor and a long ratchet with enough leverage. only two half turns and the Flywheel came off. if you have those tools, try it!

yeah that's true. but if he ships overseas, i would end up paying at least 40% of that in addition in customs, shipping costs and paypal fees plus a couple of weeks of waiting. experienced it two weeks ago with a purchase of a harness from Kevin STB. it went up from about 160USD to 280USD haha. but the DC conversion Kit works as expected and it arrived unusual fast.

I found this afterbirth of a Banshee on a online ads portal a couple of weeks ago. looks more like a racing wheelchair doesn't it? haha 🤣

the Billet Clutch Baskets from Hinson and Moose Racing aren't a good option? these two are the only ones i could get here, but they are more expensive and the rubber cushions with screws are included. between 250-300 bucks in Euros!

i agree. i was indeed thinking about it. now it's too late, but 40 to 50 bucks less in the pocket now, doesn't makes me poorer. at least it arrived pretty fast within two weeks in good shape, it works as expected and that the assembly was very easy.

haha yeah indeed sort of "cheater". to be honest, i got the Banshee from the Dealer delivered around two years ago, already with Speedometer (runs over internal Battery), LED Winker/Hazard lights/Taillight combo, rear-view mirrors and a Horn installed. the winkers/blinkers are so small, that you would not notice it ;). the stock taillight were converted to "rear fog lamps". so the main harness already was modified, but it still ran over the OEM stator (AC) without battery. okay it works, but in my book, this was a half-assed street legal conversion, just because of the missing battery. the horn HAS to work, also the hazard lights has to work when the engine is off, before i need to go to the TUV (Technical Inspection Association) for the first time. this check is needed here for most vehicles within a two years interval, but that's a different story. i dunno how it's regulated in the states! anyway...this plug & play DC Kit from STW was perfect for me. the only negative thing, it was not cheap. alltogether, with shipping costs, customs and paypal fees, the stuff cost me around 280,00 USD in the end. if STB would drop the price only 10 bucks for Europe based customers, customs will not be charged (free to 150,00 Euros). but if everthing works long term at least, it was worth anyway. there's not much to see, but i will make video soon if this helps others. which parts were installed and so on. after i find time when everthing is put together and ready for the summer season.

the DC Kit from STB works so far. Lights, Horn ect. over ignition switch, while the engine is off. no flickering lights but constant light beam. that's what i wanted 😀 unfortunateley i wasn't able to check everything yet, if the stator also works and if the battery gets charged to. i removed the clutch before that, because it's probably worn out and needs to be replaced. the weird behavior the engine makes when accelerating, points out the clutch is slipping, they told my in another forum.

it seems, the stator needs to be mounted to its place, to get measuring data from the Ground and Lighning Coil. luckily it is within the specs and i didn't got rubbish i already floated the ground wire, made it hot. today i will mount the DC coversion Kit that i got from South Texas Banshee. his tutorial how to float the stator was immensely helpful too. hope everthying works as expected, lights/hazards without engine on and the darn Horn, which is necessary here for a street legal ATV. the frickin Stator even isn't powerful enough to make a horn work lol. final result. neat work i would say! i just used a 15cm wire as a bridge

i had similar problem inclusive missfires on the clutch side, which also caused less smoke-exaust on that site in idle. purchased a Moose carbs rebuild kit, at least the leaking was gone, but missfires were still there. so i purchased a pair of used OEM Carbs, which were actually meant for Tors delete. i swapped over the carb rebuild kit to the "new" carb, only the pilot jet i leaved in its place, after that, the missfires were finally eliminated. i knew it was the pilot jet, but i couldn't explain, why the jet always got clogged by dirt particles. maybe this carb was worn out too. i don't know!

i will check that once again in a couple of days, while the Stator is installed. never removed the stator cover, since i bought the banshees 2 years ago. need a couple of more tools. a proper impact driver is already on the list, but the needed 17mm stator puller i already have! thanks 375hp

hey 375hp banshees, long not seen. the stator isn't installed, so the ground wire is lose and not connected to anything (stator plate or engine case), maybe that's the reason why do not get any results. the wires seem to be all OK under the shrink tube. nothing rubbed off. but i testet it anyway at the areas market on the image below.

hello i have a question. i just got a OEM Stator from the used market. i purchased it, because i want to convert it to DC current, in order that the other Stator stays untouched, if something goes badly wrong. the Ignition coil of this stator is within the specs. the pick-up coil cannot be testet, because its missing. the OHMs of Lighting Coil (Black & Yellow wires) i cannot read too for some reason. i tried several times, but without success. is it because the pick-up coil is missing or the stator isn't connected to the CDI?

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? - None / still OEM 2) What type of airfilter do you have? - pro design Foam air filter 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid, stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all - stock airbox with lid without snorkel 4) What is your elevation? - between Sea Level and 100 Meters 5) What size pilot jets are you using? - OEM Size 6) What size main jets are you using? - 230 Mikuni 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? - 0° to 10° Celsius 8) Do you have a port job? - nope 9) What kind of carbs? - the crappy OEM Mikuni Carbs 10) What size carbs? - 26mm

i think i found the problem why it's leaking. the O-rings on the needle seats are worn. when i cleaned the carbs, i removed the needle seats and put them into carb cleaner too along the other parts for 15 minutes. i had to squeeze them quite strong back into its holes and the O Rings partly peeled off by this. i'll avoid that in future. as long the o-rings of needle seats don't need to be replaced, there's no reason to remove them just for cleaning carbs. but there must be something else, probably the the needle itself is worn out too, causing the right engine side not working properly. i'll find out in a couple of days.

it looks like something on the Carb is not right. almost 3 liters of gasoline were leaking out of the overflow. the Pilot jet was clogged again too. when i looked into the tank, i saw that one of the Filters of the Fuel Cock has a hole in it. i ordered a Carb Rebuild Kit from Moose and a new Fuel Cock. hope this will fix it

i was writing a whole Book just to find out that the Pilot Jet in the right Carb was clogged lol! you were right 375hp (Cold= not firing). so not the Left side, as i guessed caused the trouble but the right one. but the Jet was not completely clogged. a tiny bit of light shined through. that's probably the reason why the right cylinder was not completeley dead. once i had clogged Pilot Jet on the Left Carb where the Choke is, but nothing worked anymore strangely enough! anyways...i've learned something new to this

hello 375hp. many thanks for your support! stator side gets too hot after 2-3 minutes idling and clutch side is firing, but stays cold/lukewarm. the left exhaust pipe gets too hot in my opinion, just after a few minutes idling, as if i was riding for 20 minutes or so. especially nearby the motor housing i can't touch it with bare hands. i don't know whether this is normal or not. at least i did not noticed this before^^ i'll will follow your advice. cleaning jets and everything else inside the carbs is already on Top on my list. swapping coil wires and the choke test follows after the carbs cleaning. maybe there is something clogged, especially one pilot jet and the left cylinder gets not enough gasoline either, or even too much, running too hot as a result of this. or it's the other way around- quite hot after a couple of minutes idle is normal and cold is bad :D i'll find out tomorrow i hope. the quad is parked inside the garage of relatives miles away from actual home address, because of lack of space. this sucks, but better than standing somewhere outside.

Hi Folks! i have some trouble with the engine. i hope, someone of the experts here can help me out to find the issue. yesterday, i was on a ride, left almost 100 miles behind. several stops at gas stations, having cigarettes and drinking coffee at my favorite places offroad, the usual things i like to do when i'm on track. when i was heading home after two hours, around 150 meters before i arrived (fortunately) , the Banshee behaved weird. almost as if i was riding with choke fully engaged. slow accelerating and bad throttle response. i think you guys know about what i mean. i inspected this closer at home after the engine cooled down for thirty minutes. the engine startet good with one kick, but RPM was very slow, almost dying off. i turned the engine off after 2-3 minutes idling. the first thing i noticed was, the left Silencer was smoking more than the right one, but not a very thick smoke. on the right side it was barely visible actually. also i noticed, the left exhaust manifold/pipe was hotter than the right one, im mean a great deal hotter, only after 2-3 minutes idling with a little throttle play. the right one was just a little warm instead, almost cold actually. the last thing i did was inspecting the the spark plugs and made a compression test before it was getting dark. the color of the spark plugs were pretty much equal on both, a little rich. i used brand new plugs afterwards. i got about 120 PSI on both cylinders. i did that not 100% perfect, because engine was running before and i forgot to wide open throttle during the check with that budget comp tester. but at least the PSI is within a acceptable range, without much tolerances between both. another thing i noticed was, when i removed the spark plugs, there was smoke coming out of the left cylinder plug hole. on the right one there was nothing visible. actually not a big surprise when the right side is getting hot af. i also put a little start-up spray stuff on the intake socket and nearby the left carb to find a possible leak. but in hurry and not with much care, so the engine wasn't reacting to it i'm far away of being an expert, so i don't know exactly what this means. my feeling is, there must be something wrong with the left side. but it could be the right side too..who knows! what does it mean, when the left side is getting hotter than the other, accompanied with more smoke out of the silencer? could it be just the carb, a bad intake, even the ignition coil or is it the piston itself? or a combination of several? btw...there's a little gasoline on the engine case below the left carb. but there was before, when the engine did not had those issues. to relativize this, i thought, it was coming out of the overflow during rough offroad rides. after me, the deluge^^ before the frickin cylinders need to be removed or even breaking up the whole egine, i want to rule out other possibilities first. maybe it's not too late and the issue lies somewhere else. a less serious thing hopefully. i'm very thankful to get tips from you, were i should look first! a few more- or less important infos about the setup and also my driving style It's a 2006 Banshee bone stock. snorkel removed and Pro Circuit foam filter (oiled with K&N) with AF Box adaptor. main jets size "220" now. air screws 2 turns out as described in the service manual. the carbs are still in sync as i can tell. they moving equal. the vehicle is moving at about hundred meters sea level or below. temperatures is not below 20° celsius. mixture 33:1 premium Synthetic Oil and standart gasoline 95 octane. when i drive longer distances (as described above), i don't do that without several breaks between. full throttle for a long period of time and engine brake is a no go!

i got my frickin drivers license back yesterday the whole time i thought, i have to pass the infamous and expensive psychological profile first, also known as "idiots test", because of a incident in january (damage to property), were i was again half-drunk. anyways...now i can drive my Shee in public transport again hehe

this confused me too, when i changed the coolant yesterday. this manual obviously is for the 1986 to 1990's Banshee's. in the 2006 manual it is 1,5L. i bought 2 cans of engine ice in the last year and now i have one can left. nice^^

i created a nice motive for a Shirt for myself. it's preview in a low resolution quality. the black color will be erased later, because i want it printed on a black t-Shirt. do you like it?

I'll buy LIQUI MOLY 1420. this stuff is made to preserve engines and it is written on the can. i cannot find enough infos about this Maxima MPPL stuff unfortunately, only that it is a multi-purpose oil

thanks, this is a easy work! i dunno if i could get this maxima mppl stuff in my area, but i'm sure there will be a replacement available at my favorite motorrcycle shop! WD-40 or even a sip of 2-Stroke Oil works too?

Hello! my drivers licence has been confiscated by the police around two month's ago, because i was a little drunken and got caught in the city with my 50ccm Scooter. now i have 11 month's of ban and need to pay 1000 Euros fine. i cannot drive my Banshee til of May 2021 and the bike is parked in the garage of my relatives ca. 20 kilometers away from my home. i have not often access to it, so i need to make additional measures so that the bike survives the 9 month's of not moving. can someone give me a couple of tips, what i have to do? should i drain all fluids and lube the pistons/cylinder and such things? thanks in advance for response!

i cannot wait to remove these crappy things from my carbs. a brand new tors delete kit is already in my possession. i ordered a pair of used oem carbs for a good price, just for the case something goes wrong^^ at the moment, i have no interest to upgrade on bigger carbs. i'm fairly new in this matter and i need to learn everything bit by bit i must say, syncing the carbs is lot easier as i expected. last time i did it by eye, but i already ordered a Sync Tool from Weber/Sandtler to sync them better