trumanbuckley1

I have an OEM stator that the lighting coil went bad on. Bike still ran great just didn’t have any lights, is there any way to repair that reliably? $555 for a new one seems less ideal than fixing the one I have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are these still for sale? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But you still have to use the clutch, it just makes it smoother? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s the difference between a stock trans and promod? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As far as I know, each engine isn’t always the same on what timing they like. Mine though likes +2°. I don’t think there is any disadvantages Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fair enough point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I mean stock OEM Yamaha cyls. Not aftermarket stock bore/style Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are any stock cylinders nikacil coated? Aren’t they all iron? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have to replate after every time boring it out? I thought cylinders only need replaced if there was deep grooves or chunks missing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m unsure of the amount of nickacil in the sleeve, but I didn’t hear anything from anyone I talked about when boring. As far as I know you just cut the cylinder wall down and size it to the piston and send it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep asking questions here though! On there you will get a lot of not helpful people though and have to be careful Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Above my pay grade. Do you have Facebook. If so join the BansheeHQ group and ask there, much broader interaction there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry if it was confusing, kinda hard to explain lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes they have been cut already. When you take it to your boring guy, he will measure the top of the cylinder and the bottom of it. He will then calculate how much cutting it will take to make the bottom of the cylinder match the top, so it’s all one nice even size. The top of the cylinder wears out due to the piston and rings riding on it and wearing it, while the bottom doesn’t have any wear since the piston doesn’t go down that far. When he measures it he will ideally say it needs to go .5 or 1mil more to get it to match (if you have to go more, so be it but less is better). So if he says he can cut it to 66mm and it will be even top to bottom, you will order 66mm pistons and then take them to him so he can bore and hone the cylinders so the pistons fit perfectly. Different manufacturers have different tolerances that they want between the piston and the cylinder wall. That is why you have pistons in hand when the actual boring takes place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don’t know how much you need to machine off until you measure the cylinders with a bore gauge. If you can go with 1mil more then buy the pistons that are 1 mil more and take it to your machining friend. Then he will see what the tolerance needs to be and cut it to match the pistons. Don’t forget to make sure your ring gap is also correct when you go to install the pistons. Don’t want it seizing up when it gets hot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk