03blkbanshee

Redline is recommending either the Noss or Matoon head. Both look very nice. I am leaning towards the Noss one mainly because it is a 2-piece and has a little more cooling capacity. Does anyone here have experience with either of these? Any advice as to which is better? Not worried about the 2-piece having more o-rings and therefore taking another 5-10 mins to put together. Also, my water pump and radiator both look horribly nasty. Water pump is being replaced and am looking into an aluminum radiator.

Not sure I want to know what that means, but he does seem very intelligent. I am one of these guys that says whatever people are into or do behind closed doors is their own business...lol.

Thats really good to hear. He does seem to really know his way around a banshee for sure. He is the one that recommended the above mentioned. A bit confused as to what this motor is going to end up being, but am trying to use his advice as much as possible. He is actually recommending the billet head, which I may go that route.

After fighting my banshee for a couple of months, I finally realized that I was dealing with a tired out engine. I am doing a full rebuild. I am not really racing it and dont really need tons of power. That being said I figured a full 4mil banshee would probably have more power than I would need. I will probably be doing a mix of trail riding and sand dunes. I decided to have Redline Racing do the machine work. After taking some of the advice given to me, I am doing the following: 4mm dune port cylinder bore Wiseco 795 pistons Either a Billet head or Pro Design head (undecided which will be better) Opinions on this would be great Timing Plate 4mm crank with extra weld and better bearing Clutch kit with pancake Shift mods Shift pin and spring The above is actually the wording that Redline Racing is using on the invoice. I think I want to do either vforce or boysen reeds (undecided on that as well to which is the better one). Will be inspecting all tranny gears etc. Will be doing entire bottom end kit so all new seals etc. Really just looking for opinions on what people think I should do. The people at Redline Racing seem to be extremely knowledgeable and helpful. They appear to do tons of work on banshees specifically. I think they were a good choice and they were somewhat local. Any opinions or advice will be much appretiated...thanks

ok...got it. I cant wait to see what this is going to cost...lol. But oh well, if it gives me a reliable, strong engine for several years then it is all worth it to me. Need to be able to at least keep up with my wife's Raptor...haha

Are you talking about port/polishing the head? I was thinking about putting a "coolhead" on it.

I was definitely thinking of doing wiseco pistons. Will get them bored. I think I can do it myself especially with the help of STB's videos. I have built engines before, just not 2 strokes. The engine is on my workbench now and am definitely going to do the bottom end. It will get new seals whether they are good or not. I want this thing reliable and fun with hopefully no probs for awhile. Now is a good time to do it because the weather here sucks anyway.

The kit that I was looking at on ebay is priced at $330.00 and comes with the entire top end with the exception of the head. It says its from A Z Quad Parts. Is this a china company?

Are the cylinder kits on eBay just cheap china imitations? Is that what you are saying? Getting new pistons and cylinders seemed like a logical and good idea. Is that the most common workflow then? Take these down to a machine shop or race shop that knows these engines and just have these bored to the next size and just buy the pistons and rings from them? Just out of curiosity, how do I know if these cylinders that I have now are genuine yamaha or china garbage? Are they stamped somewhere?

I was thinking of getting a top end kit with stock cylinders and wiesco pistons and get a "cool head"...that may change but that is just what my priginal thought was.

Thats precisely what I was thinking. Does anyone here know of a reputable company or reputable brands for these rebuild kits? I was sort of leaning towards getting a complete top end kit which basically has everything except for the head. Was thinking of going with a "cool head" for the head. I am seeing some full top end kits for around $300.00 or so, but those are off ebay. I dont have much experience with ebay to formulate an opinion...maybe that doesnt even matter. I am guessing there is another forum on here that is better suited for these type of questions.

Yep. But I am one of these people that figure I am going this far I might as well especially since I have no idea what shape they are in or how old they really are. I doubt I would be looking at too much extra money, some of course. STB has an excellent vid on that entire process as well.

Planning on rebuilding this motor. Hoping to have her back together and running in a month or so. Right cylinder comes out at 98 and left is about 108. Definetely doing the top end. I may at least do new crank seals while I have it all apart since I know they go bad and Im guessing they arent far from going (if they arent already).

I just checked my right cylinder compression. Will have to do the other one tomorrow and make sure I am actually getting the fittings screwed down all the way so the o-rings are sealing. Going to just remove the tank tomorrow. Need to remove tank anyway to install my new wiring harness. That cylinder is only at 98. So I should have 120-130 with stock motor? My elevation here is about 200 ft.

Thanks for the info. That helps. I am also talking to South Texas Banshee. The shop told me that I had "really good" compression. But he said one cylinder was at 100 and the other was at 95. The info I am getting online says that isnt very good at all. Most people are saying stock should be much closer to 140ish. Could this be my problem? Am I in for a top end rebuiild? The shop did recommend going to a 32.5 pilot. I am going down today to get a compression tester and check it myself and do it exactly the STB does it and see what it says. WHo knows, maybe they didnt kick it enough to get an accurate reading.