Deets

I’ve sent small stuff to Falicon before, but heard they quit doing it. Maybe they still do multi-cylinder cranks? I can tig weld but fear drawing it out of true.

Ah, didn’t think about downshifting. I see what your saying. I’ll lap the taper fit

I will disagree about the acceleration part, most of my saws run 14,000 - 16,000 rpm

Only takes a minute to file one, I do it in saws all the time

Just ordered a flywheel puller and a soft meteoric tape

Can’t I just file the key? Instead of buying a plate.

Check plugs yet?

Thanks Claude

Has anybody ran the the Rad Valve?

Piston manufacturer should specify.

I used to always be a fan of flat slides, but that was on a snowmobile. What do you guys prefer? Round or flat slides?

I’m not on Facebook

If you get lucky and come across it, I’d be interested in it too. pretty slow around here it seems

Seemed much better this morning, good temp drop. Was about 22 degrees so I took it for a spin. It ran a lot more like what I’m after. So when it warms up this spring I may drop the pilot one

So why did you stop running these? They were low on compression? Did you check ring end gap

Both setups stock bore? I would think a good port job really brings em to life

I’m leaning towards the Boyesens, bout the same price

Throttle response is important to me, I’m not impressed with it on the low end now. Running T5’s with supposedly 65mm wisecos. I need to dial in the low end jetting a bit too. So maybe that will help

I ran each of em in snowmobiles, actually just the boyesen petals on stock cages. And the vforce 3’s. I was kinda partial to boyesen but no issues at all with vforce. Seems like most guys are running vforce, you guys have any feedback on em?

Just bought my first banshee a few days ago. It has a boost bottle on it. Leave it or shitcan it?

Good to know, thanks fellas. I’ve got a lot to learn about banshee’s, so I’ll be hangin around askin stupid questions. Lol

I thought reed spacers gave more “storage room” for atomized fuel mix. And added a hint of throttle response? we use to add them on our sleds back in the day

well like I said, I haven’t done it on a banshee yet. On a saw I use a plastic piston stop, roll the engine around till it stops and check number. Roll it backwards till it hits the stop and check number. You need to adjust your timing wheel so it stops the same amount of degrees before tdc each way, then it’s good. On a banshee it may be easier to use a tdc indicator. Either way the head would need to be on to find true tdc.

I do not, I’ve only ported small single cylinder 2 strokes, chainsaws. But, installing a timing wheel should be the same. mount the wheel on the crank, set the wheel at tdc with corresponding piston at tdc. Then read port openings. Exhaust roof, transfer roofs, intake floor.

Yeah pretty much, I use the port opening numbers. I can measure in durations for exhaust and intake but transfer durations elude me.