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The problem has been fixed! 97Screamer was correct. Although I cannot tell you which electronic was the main culprit, what I can tell you is the ignition coil on it WAS NOT OEM yamaha, I replaced it with a brand new yamaha OEM one. Replaced race tech electric stator with brand new OEM yamaha stator. Replaced race tech electric cdi box with a used OEM yamaha cdi. Problem solved. Runs better than ever! To all who read this, learn from my mistake, dont chance it with cheap aftermarket electronics on banshees, totally not worth the headaches!

I don't use Facebook but none the less I just checked the website again and all cylinder kits are out of stock no surprise there

I called during business hours and did leave a voicemail but its ok I went with bp, they always seem to be in stock and have always answered the phone

Here's a little update on driveline. I kid you not when I say I have called them well over 5 times throughout the span of a few months and not once has anyone picked up the phone. Left a voicemail, no one replied back. Checked their website over the course of a year. ALWAYS sold out. Decided to take my business elsewhere, don't care about the hype of these cylinders, i had the money, but driveline never had the customer service, or the cylinders.

What exactly makes a super cub more "tiring"?

Did you ever figure out the problem?

I've heard good and negative about race tech stators. Mainly negative. Though I havnt read anything yet with specific info as to why they're so bad. With my experience owning one, it did what it was supposed to. Used to it better illuminate a relatively large LED light bar on my shee. It was a night and day difference betweem how bright the LED bar got in comparison to the yamaha OEM stator. Race techs stator worked very nicely for that. ALTHOUGH I've been experiencing intermittent engine running problems I suspect MAY be related to race techs stator AND/OR their aftermarket CDI box that came with the kit. Reverting back to everything OEM to see what happens. If it turns out race tech products have been causing my head aches then believe me, I will be back and creating a seperate post to urge all to stay away from them.

Are you saying this based off experience or word of mouth? If you've personally had a bad experience with their 200w stators i'm curious as to what the problem was.

I have a early 1987 stator with round plugs it has 2 wires off it yellow and black. Not including the bundle of wires going into the plug of course. All oem stators got the 2 seperate wires off them. Yellow and black wires. Even the newer models. I also have an aftermarket race tech 200w stator. It has the 2 yellow and black wire as well.

The wire you're referring to off the stator is indeed black. Where it plugs into on the wiring harness is a black wire and plug lead. Ive tested this wire and it has continuity with ALL the black (ground wires) in the harness, meaning they are connected at some point or another. This can be verifird at looking at a wiring diamgram too. But since that factory black wire off the stator is grounded to the frame, the floated ground is ANOTHER ground, but it is not grounded since it'll always be connected to either of the yellow wires off the reg/rect. What that yellow wire off the reg/rect does with the connected "floated ground" is beyond me. Maybe someone will chime in with a definitive answer?

The factory stator has 2 leads, one yellow and one black. His has 3 due to the fact that the floated ground is what creates the 3rd wire. The factory black wire links to all the ground wires in the banshees wiring harness which ultimately grounds to the frame. From the couple of DC wiring diagrams I've seen, it appears that the factory black wire off the stator remains plugged in its normal location, plugged into wiring harness, hence grounded to frame

The DC side of the rectifier is off the red wire or is it off of either of the yellow wires?

That diagram seems like all his grounds are going to the frame. That diagram is one of the reasons I was so confused!

The DC current coming out reg/rect is at the red wire?

As far as your question about running it on the ground side, not sure, but from what I've learned so far, i'd be very weary of make all those ground connections in his diagram to the frame. This is because all of your AC compenents (cdi, ignition coil) are using the frame as ground and apparently, if you start using your DC components (lights) on the same ground as your AC components then you could start having problems. For this reason it is recommended to ground ALL DC powered components directly to your batteries negative (-) and NOT to your frame. If you followed this diagram though I am curious, has it been working out successfully?