Fr33zypop

Ok, I am on the same page that its the rear bearings. I pumped the carrier with grease and after a quick ride I see it leaking out the right side. When I dug into the sand I sure some got in causing the jerking\surging problem... On to a new adventure to try to find the right parts now!!

The bearings are free. I had it sitting all winter and I can get it on a stand and the rear axel spins free. I clean, wipe, and then lube the chain after every trip.

On my last trip out last year I wound up is some very dry loose sand and dug the back tires in deep. During the process it dug up a piece of drift wood and it smacked the rear axle. Nothings bent but I’ve cleaned and lined the chain many times to be sure I got the sand out but since then I’ve had this odd issue when full throttle I get a very quick loss of power. It’s kind of a jerk feeling. Everything else seems pretty normal going up and down my street but at a loss where to begin outside the chain to cause this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have replaced the boots but they ripped. Trying to get some tips on how NOT to rip them...

This is the best picture of my setup right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I have neglected my carrier bearings without greasing them and have no history of how old the bearings are so I want to look at getting them replaced. I've never worked on the carrier so I just want to get the parts and take it to a shop to replace them. I have a little play in the axels but not to bad. I have replaced one front hub so I know when bearings are toast. Are the parts for these pretty standard around carriers? So last year I replaced my rear brake pads and did a rebuild kit. I didn't get into the caliper as it worked fine. The problem I had was getting the rubber boots on each side of the slider. Does anyone have any tips on getting them in without tearing. The only video I found only, he rips his too.

From other research they are the same. Sku matches. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ride very little and change it every year. I’m not looking for other options. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve used the bottle on the left for years but the Yamaha dealer said they switched labels and I’m worried it’s not the same. Can you please confirm if this stuff on the right is safe to run. The upc codes on the back are right but if I search the 4t it says 4 stroke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just wrapped up the cable install. It wasn’t bad to wrangle around and I could get the tank up enough to get my hands underneath. Night and day difference with this new cable and it even synced by eye balling the caps. They were not even on the last cable. I’ll skip the spark plug wires for now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crap. The dipshit before me rolled it and the frames bent enough I can get the tank out. I’ve tried when I had to put a new petcock in it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let me first say I have no really done much other that opened the box with the parts. I wanted to try to get a plan before attacking this as the last little project of replacing the dust boots on the rear brake took me way to f'in long Sunday. I have looked without taking any plastics off regarding the plug wires but is its pretty straight forward in finding the coil? I am just upgrading the wires at this point, mine do work fine but.. The throttle cable now (TORS Removed) seems like its got a pretty tight bend behind the radiator so I wanted to see if someone could recommend the best way to route it back to the carbs.

I did check them out yesterday and I do appreciate the suggestion. Just trying to get all options on the table. I think the 916s will probably be what I go with in the end!!

I have not but I will be.. Thank you!! Edit: Looks like they are not manufactured anymore and I don't want used.

Can you unabbreviate that? Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know my pipes are a set of old Bills Pipes and I am not 100% sure what brand silencers are on there but I am looking at replacing the silencers. Without modifying anything would others match up with the length? I am not sure what to go with but mine need repacking and I don't want to repack them. I was about to order some T5s but they jumped $250 since I first found them last year. Not trying to start a war but what are the best exhaust setups these days? Mods - Mild bore, vforce 4 reeds, knn pods.

Loosened the bolts on the bracket got it moving. I’ve ripped some of the rubber surround but it’s fine imo. I don’t got in water or sling mid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After finding a rebuild video I found the issue and new pads are in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t get this to budge so I’ll need to replace it. The Yamaha dealer can get a oem one for 400+ so I’m looking for opinions to other options available online. Anyone have any experience with ones on eBay? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Piston is not frozen and moves fine. If the two slide pins are supposed to move they don’t. I can try to soak them tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I could use some help on this. I don’t have the ebrake assembly anymore. This plate on the right. Is it supposed to move at all? I’ve tried to get it to move in with a clamp but it won’t budge. Not sure if it’s seized or what. The only pad I can fit is one with the pad 100% gone. The new one will but the rotor is pinched and won’t fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The current setup meets my needs so probably nothing crazy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I knew this would eventually happen as I have been the most gentle with these carbs but last night was the last straw. The threads for the screws for the bowl cover let loose and I wanted to see what options I have are. I am familiar with tapping new threads. The only threads I lost are the one with the little round guides to hold the fuel overflow tubes. I tried and was able to get them tight without those guides so I am wondering it I should look for longer screw? I've only tapped steel so with aluminum I just want to be sure I don't mess it up more. The last option I have is to get a new pair of 28 keihin and seems like my best option. These old carbs have seen better days..

I don’t have the parking brake setup anymore and was removed before I owned it. I’ll have to research that. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I’ve replaced a ton of brakes in a lot of cars and trucks and wasn’t to worried about the banshee but wtf. I can’t seem to fit the new pad on the right side of the caliper. When I tried to put on both new pads the rotor was getting jammed by this raised area. What am I missing here? I watched some videos already but I haven’t seen this issue raised. Because I was about to go for a ride I had a pad that was completely wore off to get it to fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk