BlackandYellowBanshee

After your edit. I think you will have to match your port timings for the stroke for best performance.

Dome size will correlate to how much compression you will have which will then correlate to the type of fuel you will be using. I am in no way an expert and some of the true vets will be able to explain benefits of higher compression. The type of cylinders you are using and port work might help some of the more seasoned guys guide you for dome choices. I like my PWK 35’s. Good all around carbs. Some people like smaller carbs for snappier throttle response. I can’t speak on behalf of smaller than 35’s because Iv never used them. Not sure how much your pipes will limit top end power so maybe smaller carbs will work fine for your application. Usually +4 timing is what people are running. Hopefully one of the guys who really know their stuff chimes in, as I know I am a little vague. I am one of those guys who bought a banshee with a few tasteful upgrades already installed so I don’t have a ton of experience with other carbs etc. I’d say it’s best to state what direction you are going with your cylinders for the best advice.

No problem. I’m almost positive that’s your issue. On the pivot works rebuild kit, you will only use the sleeves. Don’t worry about the needle bearings they give you.

What kind of stator cover do you have? My 3 piece gave me problems when I figured out water was getting past the o ring and getting the stator wet. Well, actually I couldn’t figure out if it was getting past the cover gasket or just just the flywheel piece. Have you tried to let it sit and dry and retry?

I just had this issue. No matter if it’s new bushings or dust caps it still has play up and down. Like there was play was on the bolt. I fought it forever and went thru everything. I found out that the sleeve inside the upper A arm was either incorrect or worn. I bought new sleeves and tightened it right up. I used the pivot works sleeves if that helps but I’m sure new oem ones will work fine.

Yea it’s all about what you want to run. I really like my PWK’s and have zero experience with stock Mikunis. I have heard PWK’s are easier to tune but since I haven’t fiddled with stock, I can’t verify that.

They are not the real deal. The dead giveaway is “keihin style” and the price is another giveaway. Notice how they don’t show any pictures show keihin on the carb. I have zero experience with these, but I do know that Iv learned the hard way that buying cheap is not the way to go on these. It causes way more headache than the extra savings are worth. I’m pretty sure new PWKs go for around $330 or so. Not a bad idea to look around on the for sale section, as carbs come up every now and then

So I ran a dyno session and while on the dyno, my coolant hose that runs to the clutch cover came off. Now I wasn’t there to see if it had excessive pressure behind it to push off or if the clamp loosened from vibration and slipped off. I’m using a silicone hose on a direct drive cover. I noticed the direct drive cover’s lip to secure the hose isn’t as aggressive as stock and it’s polished, making the hose easier to come off. The hose came off on the 3rd run. The shop re-tightened the clamp and proceeded to run another 7 pulls with no issue. Next piece of info.... this is my second dyno session Iv had on the quad. The first session I had zero issues and the quad was ran hard (about 10 pulls). Motor was leaked down after break in and after the first dyno session. Passed each time with zero loss. The hose clamp I’m using to secure it is just a cheap hardware store screw type ring clamp. I guess my question is... do I just buy a better clamp and quit worrying about it or is there something causing pressure to blow the hose off. It only happened once, but I’d rather get the problem fixed if there is one before I’m stranded and have to be the guy walking back to camp. I just can’t figure out why it would go a full session no problems. Then on a second session... come off and then be fine once retighted. Will vibration really cause those rings to loosen that much?

Never mind. Asked the builder. Any slider works.

I just ordered a ladder arched style swingarm from JL and was just wondering if the stock style chain slider works with this setup. I can’t see it making any difference but I’m new to this style of swingarm.

I had some knock offs. A lot of casting flaws. They were painted black, assuming to hide flaws. Once sand blasted they looked very porous. Top side of the cylinders (head) even had epoxy to fill a few holes. Never again... needless to say.

Ever find the issue?

Alright. Wasn’t sure if the hub should sit flush.

Just seeing if any of you guys can go out to your garage and check the spacing from your sprocket hub to your carrier. Bearings and seals have all 5hrs on them or so. Only reason for my concern is I just rebuilt my motor and got it dyno’d. Started splattering grease on my sprocket hub (have zerk mod on carrier). Is this small gap an issue? Or did I just pack too much grease in the carrier? No unusual movement in carrier and just retorqued axle nut. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe check pilots for a clog. If the quad was running fine before the build, I doubt your pilots would be off. How did you verify spark?

How does the fuel line run to the carbs? I have a buddy that had a similar issue. The fuel line was running “uphill” slightly above the boost bottle causing fuel to not reach the carbs. Check your petcock for proper function. Also if you run an in-line filter, check for flow or remove filter completely.

I’m heading out the end of April. Sand Outlawz weekend. Should be fun to watch.

Like new seat cover made by Cascade. Had it mounted on my seat and powder coat didn’t come out as planned and had to buy a yellow cover to match my frame. Seat has seen zero ride time and has the gripper pad sewn in. I ended up buying the same exact design in yellow. Costs $165 new from Cascade. Asking $90 shipped to your door. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Flywheel gap to the pickup coil? Maybe make sure the flywheel is clean. What kind of stator?

SOLD

I have for sale 2 35mm Keihin PWK’s. Come with brand new float bowls. New carb caps. F.A.S.T. lighter throttle springs, and longer adjustment screws to allow you to open them completely up. Also have extra float bowl gaskets. Will also include fuel line. Jets and needles not included. However, needle clips are included. Carbs work 100%. No issues. I just don’t need these carbs anymore. Throw some jets and needles in them and ride. Text for pictures. (402) 612-3451. $215 shipped to your door.

Unfortunately it’s not.

^what he said. I’d rather buy a used reputable brand, then buy a new junk brand. Worst case scenario, you rebuild the reputable brand. I hate to admit it, but I have never bought a new shock. I have gotten lucky with used that were valved for my weight and swingarm. If you are patient, they will come up on Ebay.

I have an orange seat cover made by Cascade. It has the gripper pad installed also. I got the seat cover and the powder coat on my frame turned out more yellow than orange. I bought this exact design in yellow and can show pictures of what the finished product looks like on my bike. I did have the cover mounted on my seat, so there are the staple marks on the bottom side. The cover has seen zero ride time. It is a very clean design and very high quality. The orange is a carbon fiber material and the black is "new black" which has a leather type look. I paid $160 and am asking $90 shipped. Text for what the exact design in yellow looks like on a quad (402) 612-3451.

Problem solved. The collar was either very worn or off the wrong quad. Thanks for your guys’ input.