BlackandYellowBanshee

What side is leaking? Check your idle screw. Check your sync at idle with a carb sync tool. Clean carbs. Perform a leak down test to see if you have a bad crank seal or stator side seal. I think a leaking key way will cause right side smoke.

Yea, the previous owner had yfz shocks. I’m just not sure what else was yfz parts. When I lawn darted, I broke one a arm and shock, so I replaced everything with banshee parts and now this movement in the arm occurred. I’ll know tomorrow if new collars fix the problem.

Looks like I over paid. Once I looked in the right place, pretty easy. Well.. I’m a dumbass. Hopefully the pivot works set is identical to oem.

Yup, but a cheap fix. Minus your time. Good luck!

^ I never thought of that approach. I guess just don’t tear the gasket and it should work.

I had the same problem. Check torque on those nuts. I’m guessing it’s just the gasket. Pull the top end and use a better quality gasket. I also used copper gasket spray. Not necessary, but I think it gives a piece of mind. Before you pull everything off. Run a compression check and see how strong your motor is. Better to pull the top end once and take care of everything then to pull it twice if the motor is nearing rebuild. If compression is good, change that gasket and be done.

Finding NOS upper collars isn’t easy. Clymers doesn’t have a spec size for the collar. I ordered the pivot works kit. I figured I won’t be able to figure out which part is wrong until I have all new parts. I’ll check back if it fixed anything.

Are the collars the same? As far as OD? It’s like the collar needs to be thicker to fit snug.

Alright, so I measured bolt diameter. Came out to 10mm. Called Lonestar to see if I could get some insight. They said my bolt diameter is correct. They told me that the bushings measure .59 and the sleeve should almost have to press into the bushing. This is not the case for me. The previous owner had a YFZ 450 front end on it before I changed everything back to Banshee materials. Would anyone know if the 450 pivot tube is different than banshee. If so, Iv found the problem. If anyone knows the banshee measurements for the inner pivot tube (ID and OD), that would also help a lot. I want to verify that the tube measurements are off before I start buying parts to chase the problem.

I’ll verify bolt size when I get home. I’ll see if I can get a pic that can effectively show the issue.

Sorry, what I was calling a pivot tube, I guess I meant sleeve.

As far as I know everything is factory as far as bolts go. Tried looking up oem bolts and they don’t look any different. I installed the new lonestar bushings and like I guessed, they were the same. My play is coming from the pivot tube in the bushing. Like the tube should be a tighter fit in the bushing, but hell, if the pivot tube is bigger than the bolt then that play will always be there. I installed new dust caps. Really tidy’d it up and took some of the play out. Still a little play. Before the caps, everything was still snug, I actually had to lightly bend out the tabs make the dust covers fit. Now everything is super snug. But my play is more of a vertical play. If I really get to shaking the top a arm. I can see slight movement where that pivot tube plays in the bushing (or where the bolt plays in the tube). This has to be normal, because now I know everything is correct. I did have a buddy make me new bushings where the pivot tube fit very snug into the inner pivot tube, but I still had that slight movement which tells me the movement is coming from inbetween the bolt and tube. I’m sure once it’s packed with grease, it’ll be less sloppy. Let’s put it this way, before the slop was concerning. After I put the dust covers on, I am much less concerned. Maybe 2mm of movement. Let me know if maybe I’m over looking something or if my train of thought is off.

Hard to tell, but do you have a key switch, I could see someone splicing the two wires to delete the key. If you feel like spending a couple extra bucks, just buy a new wiring harness that has all the tors wiring removed. I think I bought mine from south Texas banshee on eBay. You won’t regret it, cleans up rats nest wiring, like mine had.

Just went thru that process a couple months ago. Great time. When you get done, you feel like there is a void. Like you “should” be out in the garage turning a wrench. Kind of how I feel like I “should” be dialing in my quad, but like you said, waiting is smarter and rewarding in the long run.

Yea. I’m going to hold off until warmer weather. Sucks looking at it all winter but that’s life.

Shearers and vf4s

Just got my goody box full of parts from fast for my Serval. Got everything together. Leak down tested good. Squish in spec for pump gas. I fired it up. No problem. Idled but died about 3 Times in 10 min. Tried messing with idle screw. I’m about 3 turns out which I want to say tells me I’m too rich on the pilot. They started me out with a 62 pilot which I thought sounded really rich. 35 pwks. 1090 ft above sea level. Dune port. It’s colder than hell out so I can’t do the riding portion of my break in, but I’d like to do some heat cycles in the garage. Wondering if maybe a 58 pilot sounds right. I’m calling them tomorrow for their recommended break in. I’ll also ask them what they think. Suggestions?

Answered all my questions. Thanks Keno!

Sorry, need to add it’s the dc conversion with the JL reg/rec and battery

I’m getting my build finished up this weekend and wiring my light is one of the tasks that I have left. Iv got a new harness and want to make sure that I have this part right before I go cutting into it. To begin with, I have done the DC conversion to a stock stator. The bar is a Rigid 10 inch light bar. The light itself came with a ridiculously long wiring harness with a switch, fuse, and relay. I am going to cut the switch and relay off and splice the fuse in with the red and black wires that go into the light to reduce all the clutter. I want to use my handlebar switch to turn the light on and off. Can I hook the ground from the light to the black wire from the stock harness and then my red wire to either the green or yellow wire? The bar I have doesn’t have high or low beams. I just need a 12v source when I switch the light. I am assuming if I tap into the green wire (low beam) I will still receive the 12v needed. Last question... on my dc conversion. Is it necessary to ground the black wire near the tail light. I did anyway because I assume that is the grounding point for the black wires in the light system. These questions might sound elementary, but making sure I’m only doing this once the right way and not left with an electrical rats nest.

Woodruff key is just for alignment of the flywheel. The flywheel is actually held in place due to the taper fit of the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft. Ah yes, I knew it was a bit of a stretch. I always figured the key was a secondary “lock” along with the taper. Thanks for the clarification.

This may sound way too simple, but it is something to check. Did you reinstall the woodruff key on the crank? Flywheel spinning slower when revved?

Yes for caster adjustment. Looks like I’ll be ordering some dust covers to see if this problem can be solved.

Yes, exactly. I’ll know if the bushings are the problem when I receive the new ones. I’m just worried that it won’t fix it. Do you think adding the dust caps would be the answer to this? I just can’t recall if the a-arms were designed to use them.

Are you running a stock stator? Not sure if that would make a difference, but I had terrible luck with the Electro sport.