bikerbill2021

Werd, yea I inspected every crimp underneath all the factory tape, as at first I thought it was more fuckery from the PO's shenanigans, but then found it was OEM, figured it couldnt hurt to check them out tho. good call on the voltage drop, may be my next stop. See thats what so ass backwards about all this, b/c i swapped everything from my buddies bike to mine minus the harness, kill switch, and i believe CDI, and it made no difference at the time. I had a crappy ricky stator in the motor when i sent it to Kevin, and he swapped in an OEM one and then back to mine just to rule it out, and told me if I had it (which i did thankfully) to swap the OEM one back in. Still, electric shit breaks, we all know it, so everything must be taken into consideration. I have to put my buddies new carbs on his banshee, so ill prob steal some of his parts in the mean time and see if i can narrow it down, now the question is if i should return the motor back to the ported work, or leave it stock for now.

I hear ya man, Im cheap so I figured I could make my own/trim mine down, but maybe there is a broken connection somewhere I missed. So some new stuff. Just for shit and giggles, I threw my old, stock setup on. Stock reeds/cages, stock jugs, stock pistons, stock head, new plugs, just to see if it made a difference. I figured either it was going to run the same and rule out the porting, or run better and id be on the right track, either way id get a result. So after spinning it around the block, I think its safe to say its not the porting, as it runs the same way, bogs down in the mid, wont accelerate etc etc, which is great news in the sense that its prob something stupid, and I can run the ported heads after all So now im leaning towards ignition, weak spark, breaking up under load kind of thing, as messing with the carbs made no difference in my previous diag. This coil i got has the caps that use the smaller, non resistor cap style, i.e you unscrew the nipple off the plug and run it that way, I remember Kevin mentioning something about it being different then his, its def not OEM, ebay special of about 50 bux from that motorcity fella so maybe that has something to do with it, but I did swap coils with my buddys bike previously before i had Kevin take a look, and it made no difference. Gonna check out the kill switch as per dano3's idea, my switch is broken on the headlight adjustment, maybe it let water in there. also, i may get myself a drag harness/simplified harness. But getting somewhere, albeit small steps edit: found the link, this is the coil I had purchased back before all this dickery happened, as i was having an issue running only on one bank, this seemed to fix it, and it rode great. anyone have any insight/problems with these coils? https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamaha-BANSHEE-350-ignition-COIL-spark-caps-wires-HIGH-OUTPUT-1987-2006/271645617959?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Its all good, I did try that and cleaned the ground point off by the voltage regulator a while back, but sadly no difference thats interesting, yes the stock switch is on the bike, I did swap it with my buddies b/c I was having a lighting issue, but have since put it back. Ill have to check into that, good call

ill have to check it out about 6 hours, he's in San Diego, Im in Phoenix

likely aftermarket, got it from that ebay seller that has like a barn full of those bikes, he used to be on here. However ive already swapped a known good coil from my buddies bike, to no avail. Also I have ran a ground strap from engine to frame as well, just for added assurance I removed the wiring harness, went through and removed all unnecessary TORS wiring and what not, ohmed out and visually inspected all terminals and crimps of each individual wire, and re-wrapped it, all was good, made no difference

hmmm, you may be onto something with the coil wires, however I didnt cut the wires back as the coil is only about 6 months old, and I swapped a coil from my buddies bike as well making no difference. I had another CDI, albeit an aftermarket one, that I had swapped out way back in my orig diag, and Kevin had his own CDI on his bike that my motor was swapped in, still the same. I was trying to think of what was different on Kevins chassis compared to mine, which would be the coil, wiring harness, CDI, and fuel lines/fuel tank. Already tried shortening/straightening the fuel lines to no avail. I havent taken another video of it as it runs pretty much the same as it did in that first video, it will barely move in the higher gears unless i get good enough momentum in the lower ones.

Haha no I still have it and no no blaster replacement, haven't ridden one of those since I was 13 I think All right fellas, I'm not going to BS you so be easy on me with this, I want to be clear that this update is no means meant to harp on HJR or take any of the info you guys gave me in vain, as I appreciate all the input and help, but due to having very little time and just being absolutely tired of fucking with it, to the point where I was just getting pissed looking at the thing, I had had enough and sent the motor back with the carbs on it out to Kevin at HJR, to have him figure it out, as it was his porting setup I was running. So, after I came back home from seeing the family for xmas, I awaited eagerly for a phone call from Kevin, which sooner or later I received. After running through a few things like swapping stator, leak down test, squish test (more on this later) he concluded that the carb needles were the problem. He swapped in the Toomey needles which are a bit longer then stock, and stated that it runs great now, spins the tires on the pavement etc. I was a little in disbelief as this was one of the things I tried by swapping my buddies needles, and was a bit shocked that it ran so much better. He assured me all was good, he stated he did a squish test and got around .065, which i though a bit strange, thinking I should be a bit higher then that. He stated he was running pump gas, where I wanted to run AVGAS, and I asked him if this would be an issue. He told me If I wanted to I could have him shave more off, but he would charge me, and said I could either do it myself or put a cool head on it, but stated it runs great the way it is, so I decided against that for the time being and had him ship the motor back. When I got it back and installed, I cant say I was surprised that it still ran more or less the same. It seemed a bit better, and I got it to hit the pipe a bit by easing onto the throttle, stabbing it would bog it, but still more of the same. Tried stepping down the mains from a 330 to 320, dropping the needle in to the lowest setting (#6 on the toomey needles) thinking due to him being around sea level and me being around 1000 ASL, that would help, and it seemed to a lil, but not much. Tried both pump gas and AVGAS, but the result was the same. So rather then shaving down my head, a friend of mine actually had a mod quad cool head kicking around with 20cc domes that I could have, so I threw it on to see if it helped, still the same. Then for the hell of it, swapped in some new plugs and closed the gap from the .025 he recommend to around .022-.023. Im only testing it behind my shop, same place in that vid, so i can only get to about 3rd. I actually got it to rip a bit, I was surprised, but two more passes, and it started doing the same. Swapped in another set of plugs, got two or three good passes, same thing. I removed the boost tube I had on it for the stock cross over, and made the fuel lines as straight I could, thinking it was possibly starving the bowls, no change. So it seems its just following out these B8ESs, I even tried some B9ESs I had lying around, made no difference. So honestly fellas, I shelved it for the time being. I was so close to saying fuck it and selling it the way it was for stupid cheap just so I wouldnt have to look at it anymore, but I couldn't do that to it, banshee's are glorious machines, and I want to do right by it. Some may say to contact HJR again, ask for a refund etc etc, honestly Kevin is a great guy and helped me out, so it is what it is. But what ride.race.live said above about how there have been reported issues in the past with HJR porting falling on its face in the mid, makes me ponder that the porting really might be to blame, even though Kevin swears it ran great for him. Im not sure, but I'm leaning toward reverting the motor back to the stock setup and seeing if it makes any difference. Def a long read, but thats it in a nut shell. I know Im prob going to get some flack for my decisions, but I didnt want to leave you guys or anyone else having a similar problem hanging, hate reading through a thread where you have almost identical issues only for it to never get a conclusion.

No leak down test yet, thats the next step, however Im out of town for the next few weeks for christmas, so sadly have to put this one on hold. Ill update once I get back and dig deeper into it, thanks for all the input everyone, enjoy the holidays

Hmmm, so is HJR bad news then? The guy has been super helpful and the prices weren't bad, hence why I went with him I'm out in the east valley of Phoenix, San Tan Valley to be precise, I was looking around for banshee shops, but they seem to have all closed down. But I'll look into those two for future reference, thanks for the heads up

I hear ya, and it's not something Im thrilled about, but honestly I'm at the point where I'm ok with having him take over, sucks to fork over that much, but at least I know it will be in good hands Not sure yet tho, I'm still thinking on it

Yes he did I just got off the phone with him actually. Gave him the run down of everything I've done and see what he thought. He agreed with me in pretty much exhausting everything via diag on the chassis, and that the problem likely lies internally. Told me the next step I could do, is send him the motor with the carbs on it, he'll put it in his test chassis, and get it running right. Shipping/return shipping and his labor rate would put me around 500 or so, I'm in AZ and he's in Cali so not too far. I forgot to ask, but I would assume if there is an issue with the porting/parts or something that he supplied, and they were installed right on my end, that he would cover the cost of repair, but either way, I feel that this would be the next best bet. Maybe I missed a part of the cases in sealing them or something strange like that, either way, at least I would know he would get it running right.

Its possible the gauge is bad, it is brand new and only been used two other times this summer, once on my YZ250 just to see where it was at (that was close to 240-250) and once on this same bike before I tore it down to see where my compression was at, which if I remember correctly was similar to what the hot reading was now. Still shit happens and the gauge could be bad, but I'm leaning more towards something is actually wrong internally When I first put the bike together, I had an issue with coolant leaking around the gasket/up out the studs. I removed the head and all the studs from the jugs, and checked both with a straightedge and feeler gauges, and everything was good and true. At the time I was thinking I just did not have the studs tightened down enough in the jug. Also, the gasket I was given was a bit strange compared to some new extras I had laying around, the extras I had had a "squish" element to them, i.e. raised areas around the bolts/cylinder etc, the gasket I was given was a flat piece of metal. So I re-assembled it with one of my extra gaskets, and this time as per recommendation on here, I torqued the head first, in stages, THEN I torqued the jug bases, and the leaks were gone. After a few more heat cycles and trying to diag the problem at hand, I went a check the torque on the head, no issues there. It should be noted tho, the first time around when it was leaking and after I heat cycled it one or two times just to help break it in, I rode it down to my mail box and back, and it was doing the same thing that its doing now with it acting rev-limited and what not. So it would seem the new and old head gasket did not contribute to the problem.

Yes, actually the first time I did it cold I just had the reeds on it, no carbs, second time hot after that short run in the vid, full throttle kick until it stopped moving, around 20-30 kicks per test. Tester has Schrader valve installed at tip, and fitting is the same length as spark plug

That's the next plan of attack, as the reeds looked, as expected, in new and mint shape.

Yea man its the strangest thing, but Im thinking your right in something being up with that head. Like I said ill check the reeds in the morning I'm more of a lurker, but I take it Carl is the OG around here when it comes to these bikes? The more input/thoughts the better