dano3

I agree with DDQ, that is what i was getting at. I dont have much interest in a lighter stock geometry/ replacement frame but one with improved geometry and modern technology is appealing for my purpose (duner/trail bike). The frame on my bike is basically the last thing untouched other than removing the unneeded brackets. Eventually will get some JDS footpeg bungs, gusset kit, and fresh powder. All the frames with improved geometry seem unobtanium these days so might be a good slice of the market interested.

Out of curiosity what is the application you are building the frame for?

Use tapatalk. Two snaprings, the cupped washer for brake side, and axle nut. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just get the cub ones if you have a cub/serval. Could always call them, Jeff is great and would gladly answer any questions you have.

Check your clutch cable and clutch actuator adjustment since you just replaced clutch cable. If that is adjusted correctly then pull clutch cover and check shift lever/claw adjustment. Probably wise to replace the eccentric screw as they get dented and lose adjustment, then adjust correctly. Plenty of youtube videos on these things but getting a clymer manual helps too.

Depending on temp/altitude you likely need a 27.5 pilot. would swap those in, set air screws at 1.5 turns out and see how it is.

try again with 27.5?? You said it ran fat with 27.5 but you went up a size? crossover tube connected between both carbs? Also make sure carbs are synced at idle and off idle.

pictures arent the greatest but looks like there are tabs to fit the rectangular OEM swinger. Would need to grind those down or get the other design slider.

cant tell if troll or not but if true, @97Screamer please message me it will not let me send you a PM.

honda 400EX thumb throttle and new motion pro cable!

I run stock length on a redline 421 Serval.

Fireball FTW Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

probably not. i run the cheap ebay rad and have not had issues. they are pretty simple setups, save the money and spend it on something else.

mishimoto is high quality stuff.

421 Serval. Might as well have it ported too while you're at it. research which builder you want to go with and make sure you are ok with current lead times. Builder will set you up with the correct domes for pump gas. Redline, FAST, or driveline clutch kit. Shouldnt need a lockup if you run HD springs but clutch pull will be heavy so lockup is nice if you spend the time to dial it in. Get a pro mod transmission and supporting shift mods. I run a camatv pro mod but again many options, do your research. 28, 33, or 35MM PWK keihins. 28 or 33 will help with fuel mileage, i run 35MM PWKs on my 421 Serval. Get an adjustable billet timing plate or search on youtube on how to modify the stock one. Chariot, Matoon, NOS all build high quality cool heads. I run a NOS. See you talking a lot about having to run stock pipes. Is NH really enforcing those laws? thought their mantra was live free or die lol. Your porting and setup will depend a good amount on what pipes you decide to run. Def talk to your builder and see what they recommend.

Just measured mine at -2.5-3* camber. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine has room to go but it appears I have more camber than he does. I dont remember the exact #s, would have to measure again. Out upper ball joints seem to be close to the same location assuming they are the same. I have about 4-5 threads exposed past the lock nut. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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bump, still need. Dont make me send $ to rattle can ray

Fireball racing.

Looking to buy a set of front fender mounting brackets. The long ones that mount from the bottom of the frame to the bottom corner of the fender. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

im running a very similar setup and at 75* F, same elevation im at 155M, 45P, and a CEL needle. starting rich and dropping down at increments help a lot with learning how the jet changes affect the response and overall behavior of the setup.

i would check ebay, i bought both calipers with lines/pads, then the YFZ450R master cylinder separately for ~$80. Huge difference!

buy this kit, float your ground on your stator, and then connect your lightbar to your existing headlight wiring to control with the stock headlight switch. https://www.jdscustoms.com/product/jl-engineering-complete-dc-conversion-kit/