dano3

Jetsrus.com

haha ok was just curious as last post you said lonestar DC pro is the only way to go but a few posts back fireball was on your list too. Is there a benefit to going the fireball route to utilize the longer shock length and getting/providing all the measurements to the shock builder as you detailed in this thread or is the geometry on the lonestar arms really superior? My application is for a fulltime duner bike mainly riding the trails. Have a set of stage 3s that Ben Martins redid for me which made a huge difference but i wanna eventually get into a higher end setup to ditch my alba LT arms.

So curious, now you dont like the Fireball A-arms?

Ah man that was the worse, glad everything is back up and running. Will see you guys there ! Im not sure what the story is, heard that through some of my buddies that hit that ride every year.

A group of us are going the last weekend in September which was supposed to be the 250R ride also but I heard there was big drama and it fell through. I still plan to go that weekend. DDQ is hosting classes on cheap vodka too.

Check and adjust your carb float height. I would check your floats (fuel can leak into them)/ float needle valves/seats too before you make adjustments in case they are worn out.

farmandsandtoys.com - FAST racing is who i like to order parts through, especially OEM parts. Call them and see if they can put together a list based on what exactly you need.

I have looped it a few times at LSOK but i blame DDQ for making me take shotskis at 8AM. I have been wanting to try a +2 but we run trails, tree shots, and general duning 90% of the time so not sure if its worth it.

I meant post a more clear picture of the actual spot where it is leaking. take one from above showing both inside cylinder base studs with the leaking spot.

Almost looks like the reed cage bolts were too long and they hit the cylinder. Has a similar mark on the other cylinder too. Post a more clear picture.

I have ran play cut padla brats and just switched to 9 paddle 70RO 21x12x8 haulers last year, John at sandtoyz unlimited was pushing me to do an 8 paddle hauler saying the 9 was too much for this setup on a stock length swinger and that may be the case for drag racing as i have to pedal it a lot to get off the line but everything else i like it. I did drop back down to a 14T sprocket (was at 15T) with the haulers.

I run a stock length fireball on my redline 421 Serval on sand and love it. It is a pain in the ass to launch when drag racing but im riding trails, tree shots, and overall duning 90% of the time.

I bought a set from sandtoyz over the summer with a great experience. Call him and talk to John, he will make recommendations and get you set up.

post a picture of the carbs using tapatalk......

Who is porting cylinders and cutting domes for you? Ask them

Redline serval with same mods except i run shearers and depending on temp at 1000ft above sea level I range from 148-158M and 42-48P with a CEL needle. Start rich and work your way down slowly. I followed that duncan racing jetting PDF to get pilots close when I first put it together. Also, ask your builder????

https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/018-530_su.html

https://steel-it.com/pages/toughest-paint-for-metal?gclid=CjwKCAjw8JKbBhBYEiwAs3sxNxIS98Ou0uNZu8SjHJrhgdSCj_ft_w6upthHkGwpihHow51ejQI1BBoCnYcQAvD_BwE Looks like it. That reminds me i painted all my outside light fixtures and garage door trim pieces with the black version and it looks great still, not much fading.

These have 7-8 dune weekends on them. Rotor/sprocket guards and rotor/sprocket hubs in the gray steel-it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

no, comes in an aerosol can i guess its popular in the trophy truck scene but has held up really well for everything i have used it on.

Powder coat but if you go the paint route get some steel-it. Expensive but has surprised me how well it is holding up on my chain/rotor guards after 2 years of dragging them through the sand during dune trips. Also weldable and easy to touch up.

still have the OEM kill switch? I know you tested it but i had issues with the pinfit in that connector and would cause a no spark when hot, i could wiggle and tug that connector and it would fire up. Also since you were messing with the carbs both times, I would wiggle the stator harness and make sure that tests good and has consistent readings while doing so. Are you sure the STB banshee is for correct year and CDI/stator combo?

extra radiators, more inline coolers, those are all bandaids why not fix the actual cause. What is your static compression? what is the squish reading at on the outer edge and inner edge? Have you tried it at +4 timing? Where exactly is the temp gauge located at and have you verified it reads correctly- ie in boiling water? Have you tried a different radiator cap? the one on my ebay radiator was junk and switching to OEM stopped it from constantly venting. It will continue to spit out antifreeze if you keep adding anti freeze when it is cold as it is normalizing the coolant level for when it is hot.

I like the idea and support you getting started out but I am already more interested in this DDQ/Tfaith collab frame than the stock geometry frame idea. I have a feeling i am not alone in that thinking either.

Probably, or get one done and send it to the BHQ ride in OK.