Canadianshee

Have you set yourself a budget? Can get out of hand in a hurry. I would start there then check out site sponsors. There are many options. What set up for carbs and exhaust are you running now. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

If you still have them once I'm back on feet from this medical crap we will chat. What shock length were you running with them? Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

If they were not chrome would have been all over them. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

I'd look at all the options that are out there and contact the makers of the parts you are looking to replace. I went with everything that Mull Eng has to offer for the banshee. Out of the three companies I contacted only two responded, Mull and Chariot Performance regarding water pump parts, so purchase lots of their products. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Ok thanks for the reply will be ordering soon Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Would free shipping be extended to us Canadian?

Done and done. Will have father in law turn the motor over once a week till I'm back on feet to ride. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Perfect. Thank you. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Hey all Unfortunately have to put the bike in storage mode for a bit. As per my previous rebuild thread I have not done the first start yet. I have added 5ml of oil (R50) to each cylinder, crank case oil is filled to spec, brake fluid levels are topped up, removed tires and sprayed motor and pipes down with WD-40. Anything else that should be done. Cooling system has never been filled since rebuild. Should it be left empty or filled. Any other sugesstions are welcomed. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

I set a pm to you two weeks ago regarding a-arms a Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

So going to be delayed on getting this bike going. Last minute surgery booked for Thursday. But was able to get jets installed and everything buttoned up. Did a compression test and results were 150PSI for both cylinders. This seems a tad high for my mods and 21cc domes at 600 to 700 feet above sea level. I was using a cheap tester and will be looking for a better one to retest. Do these number seem high for a cheap tester.? Was hoping to avoid using race gas and mixing but not out of tbe question as AV fuel is ready available at work. So hopefully in a few weeks I will finally get out and start this thing. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Sent you a pm last week regarding A-arms Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

I'm not an expert on squish there are a few guys on here that know this very well. Only thing I can say is depending on your build your smaller number should be near the cylinder wall your larger number should be towards the spark plug. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

I have always been told to manually drain your carb bowls, as running them dry my cause a lean condition, even for a short period. Others on here will surely know about that, if it true or as I'm far from expert Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

I just did my the other week after a rebuild. I used several different sizes for comparison. Sizes used were 0.062, 0.125 and 0.84. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Was looking at them. But was able to borrow the tool from the local stealer. Just have to give them a days notice before picking it up. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

I remember reading a thread at one point about spaying a cleaner of some sort while motor is running to aid in finding leaks. Not sure if this is true or if it could cause any issues? I don't think I will have any leaks as pressure tested nicely found one leak and fixed it. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Awesome thanks guys will let you know how it goes when I get some free time to get at it. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Finally picked up verity of pilot jets (27.5 through 35) that were in border customs forever and throttle cable will be here on Monday. Going on some advice from members here and builder I'm hoping to do first start next week. I'm in need of advice on what to look for and listen for on the first start. This has been the first time rebuilding a twin cylinder, plus with all the other mods and new parts changed out. This is what has been done Stock bore and stroke new true and welded crank MX porting on cylinders to go with FMF Fatty pipes Chariot head with 21cc domes for pump gas use Pro mod transmission Mull Eng shift star, shift bearing, water pump and gear New modified shift shaft New transmission bearings seals and clip, gaskets ECT Pick up coil spacing set to factory spec. Timing plate set at 0. If I had just replaced the crank and top end I would feel more at ease. Also is it a wise idea to use the ratio called out in the manual for break in or should one just use 32:1 ratio will be running Klotz R50. Thanks for all the help in this rebuild. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Its sad that this company does not reply to emails. Have been emailing for 3 years just to gain some information. From looks of it they only communicate via a social media outlet, legitimacy of response and half truth now understood. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Nice score. Have always had a soft spot for this colour scheme. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

What is the original base colour. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Yes after putting all the time in on them and the huge mess, buying new is better, but went way over budget with the motor, after doing a tone of reading on here. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

After doing a frame up rebuild, wanted to share the experience and product used for cleaning a set of FMF Fatty pipes. Pipes were in rough shape when I purchased this Banshee last fall. Previous owner had decided to spray paint the exposed portions of the frame and exhaust black. Ohhh boy lazy as nothing was removed of covered. This is what the pipes started out as ( pic 1) After a good wash and a light wire brushing with a brass wire brush I started with the aluminium foil rubbing. Ended up going through a 50 foot role of aluminium foil. A rough 30 hours were put in to this step. A lot longer then I first though would take. I will admit near the end I put more attention to the most visible part of the pipe. Next I used a drill and the following products to do the polishing process (pic 2) master craft emery smoothing compound was used first. This is a cutting compound so close visual polishing is highly recommended as it cuts through the rust and pits fast. Next compound I used was the Rouge polishing compound , it s ultra fine none scratching polish. Next polish medium used was the extra fine Diamond polish compound. This step seemed to go fast. Very little weight was applied to each section with the polishing pad and drill. Now each of the above compound come dry in a stick. I used a dish soap and water mixture to spray the pipes down then rub the pipe with the polish compound before hitting it with the drill. The final step was using a wet polish to bring out the shine end results (Pic 3 and 4) With the condition the pipes were in, compared to now, I happy with the results. Now you won't be able to remove and polish out all the rough areas but you can make the rest of the pipe shine like new so you don't notice the bad areas. Saving money instead of buying new is nice, but the amount of time and effort is a lot. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

Looks like he wants a banshee when older. Glad to hear Dr are watching, hope they are being proactive as well. Pm'd you my address for shipping cost for part. No rush as I'm sure you have more important things to attend to. Positive thought to your family from north of the border Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk