caleb90

i gotta take a pic to show you how the bottom mounts. cant use a half washer. id have to take lower ball joint to work and have a spacer cut on a laser if i wanted to go that route Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

lower ball joint goes into the fork, with just a bolt that threads in.. upper has the nut on either side Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

lifted front end and set to 1.5 neg camber. said to hell with it, what ya get for buying cheap. they sit about .30 neg at rider level, oh well. my bigger issue is my steering stem. alba aswell, was welded crooked when i got it. so i cut it apart n rewelded. still didnt get it perfect, had to shorten 1 tie rod and i have one side turning more than the other at full lock. going to have to readjust and have bars a little off when strait Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

they just bolt in, there is a "fork" in lower arm they slide into. then you just tighten them

lower ball joints have no adjustment

trying to get my camber set up and having issues. with proper sag and almost a level frame, i am out of adjustment on top ball joints. only have about neg .30 degree of camber. the only way i can get neg 1 degree or more is when i have the front end fully extended.. whats going on here

i vote electrical

let some on else rip er then

rider error?

picked up a vitos proflow adaptor last year before i learned, it had a new owner and sold junk. i just got my brand new oem air box as my old one started to crack where it cones down. put the adaptor plate in the new air box and once i tightened it down it started to stress the box in the same spot turning the plastic white. im thinking the o ring is to thick causing to much pressure. any one run into this before?

these are simple motors, ignition and fuel. coils break down under heavy load if there going bad but you changed them, maybe ground? same goes for fly wheel and stator. you changed carbs , but have they been gone through? new needles venturies ect? not questioning your skills but often small stuff get over looked. i have no experiance with the lock out clutches. but i do have alot of experiance with cvt clutchs on sleds. clutching plays a huge role on how a sled performs. sticky weights, sticky rollers, springs do wear over time and need to be replaced. if the lock out clutches have rollers and weight arms id check them for wear... if none of that helps check your boost bottle and swap green power band for the red or black one and drop fuel mix ratio to 200:1

yamabond 4.

on there way

still no updates......

just got done talkin with jeff. should be shipping next week.. tride to explain my frustration best i could via text, with out being rude or mean. feel he might of took it wrong but explained i dont blame him in these current times

problem solved... https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192715-stock-carbs/&tab=comments#comment-1923309

find a set of stockers used. be more than enough for your motor

long story short. when should i start bitchin?

give ya 800

i get the current crazyness because of covid. but you having a similar issue before all of that is concerening

just a port job, bore and hone. along with alot of other parts i ordered.i wouldnt be 1 bit suprisec if he himself is having supplyer issues aswell

this is why im asking, i have no experiance to base it off. i know fast has people around the globe sending parts n buying parts.

Alright so this is in no way shape or form of a bash thread. just asking as this is the first time ive built a banshee to this extent, and have zero experiance prior. F.a.st has had my cylinders for almost 4 months for a dune/play port, last i spoke to jeff he was honest and said he wasnt sure when they would be done because they are so swamped. I get that this year has been crazy because of covid and every type of outdoor buissness has been overwhelmed. im just not sure as what to is normall turn around, or when i should start questioning? I will say Jeff has been great with getting back to me, his customer service is bar none. even went out of his way to hold his black friday sales for my items with out me asking or saying any thing. as usps lost my package for 2 weeks whent i sent my stuff in. just looking for some insight from you guys that have been through this before. thanks

my hubs warped when i had them powder coated. ended up having to buy new ones

i wouldnt have removed the paint for the grounding points. as it will have ground via the bolt threaded in a clean clear bolt hole. if the hub was powered where the rotor has a press over it then yes remove that. what do you mean by wheel and brake hubs? were the splines coated? if so just clean off the back sides where they make contact with the axle shoulder, then knock em on with a hammer and a block of wood