Time Machine

The coin jar is just about empty for this year, so the pwk's are probably as far as this build will go. The '94 is my dune cruiser. I've now got a good suspension under it and once the engine work is done it should be a little easier for me to keep up with the guys I ride with, who are all younger, faster and better riders than me. But I've already started to think about next years plan for the '01 I bought a couple months ago. With the +6 swinger I'm thinking it will make a nice straight line bike. I don't need to be the first one to the top of Choke Cherry, but I sure as hell don't want to be last! Maybe a 4 mil cub. We'll see.

Well, here's the story, it's been changing recently. I started out leaning towards a 4 mil, stock cylinder, play port with stock carbs, 60-65 hp. Then I found out one of the Honda guys we ride with was doing a 65 hp build on his engine, so I decided to go to a dune port, 70-75 hp. Well, I just heard a rumor yesterday that he may be building an 80 hp engine now. So there might be some 35 pwk's in my future. LOL!

The engine out of my '94 is at Redline and waiting for its turn in the shop. I started buying some bolt on parts from Cam and talking with him about this build last fall, finally sent the engine over last week. Yes he's been hard to reach a time or two, but each time I connected with him he has taken the time to talk with me and give me good advice. One of the things I've appreciated about talking with Cam is that, each time I've come up with some bad idea or gotten off track he's let me know it and helped me get straightened out. That alone has been worth the wait.

Also, I'm guessing the TORS units are no longer on the carb tops, correct? Check to make sure all wires were disconnected when that was done. If they're still on, then get a removal kit from FAST when you order the sync tool. Another thing I like to do with any old engine that's been sitting is disconnect, clean and reconnect all electrical connections, including grounds. May not have anything to do with your problem, but it doesn't hurt.

As already said, get a Clymers manual, then accurate compression and leak down tests to help determine engine condition. You said you "cleaned" the carbs. How? Sprayed with aerosol carb cleaner or soaked for 30 minutes in Berrymans? If you didn't soak them, do that. Be sure to remove all rubber parts first, including o-rings. Then use your Clymers to put it back together, including setting the floats. You're also going to want a carb sync tool, so call FAST and get one coming you're way. Search here to learn how to use it.

Good to know, thanks for that. They looked like a good eBay seller, and if price were mine only priority I might go that way.

This. $385 is a good price, but I don't know who Inland ATV is. I'd rather spend a little extra and buy from the engine builder who is doing my other work.

Well, unless you're planning to build another, keep what you're going to use and sell the rest. Check out Rocky Mtn ATV for tire and wheel packages.

If you're going to ride at St. Anthony you should consider leaning heavily towards aggressive dune riding, with an occasional pass or two up Choke Cherry.

This! Plus it sounds like you have some other parts to sell too. Frame, etc.

First class suspension setup, very nice. House of Horsepower keeps talking about retiring. Not sure if he actually will or not, but that what he says. When I talked to him last week he was 2-3 weeks out on a rear shock rebuild.

So it looks like your options are: 1. Use them as is and figure them out. 2. Get them to somebody who can evaluate them, then decide. 3. Sell them and buy something else. 4. ??? I'd start with 2, but it's your Banshee

Thanks for that. I did the suspension mods last fall, +2+1 and Elka Legacy plus some bolt ons. Now it's time for the engine work. It's on the bench right now, as soon as I get the cases split and crank out its going to Redline for a 4 mil stock cylinder, dune port, hoping to ship it tomorrow.

A friend had a 4 mil, stock cylinder, ported, stock carbs, cool head, vf, pods. Put on bigger carbs, 28/33?. He said he said he felt a slight improvement but not enough to justify cost. So maybe save the bigger carb money for something else. Promod? Lock out?

I rode a stock Banshee at St. Anthony last season. The engine was adequate, I quickly realized that it was the suspension holding me back. Don't be in a big hurry to throw all your money at the engine. Do your homework here and get a good suspension set up. Tires? Skat Trak or ITP up front, Skat Trak 8 or 10 paddle on rear. What's wrong with the engine you have? Have you tried it? Compression and leak down? It's got VF3 and 35 mm, so it's either already had work done or someone wanted you to think it did. Maybe it's okay. If not, I like a stock cylinder 4 mil built by the builder of your choice.

You haven't said what your suspension is. I'm just like you, on a limited budget and want to build a stock cylinder 4 mil. I've talked it over with an engine builder and know what I'll do. But I've decided to focus first on getting a better suspension. It means putting off my 4 mil for another year, but I think it's worth the wait. I did all the mods you listed in your original post on the '94 I bought last year, then went after the suspension. +2+1 a arms, Elka Legacy shocks, all new tires and wheels, serviced the bearings and bushings, new sprockets and chain, etc. I bought an '01 in January, already has the mods you listed, but the stock suspension is old and tired. I just talked to Richard at House of Horsepower yesterday and will be sending him my rear shock to rebuild in a couple weeks. Then a new set of Elkas on front and maybe some new paddles on back to replace the old ones.

Well, no. But then there's a lot of Banshee stuff I haven't seen yet. 12 months ago I just barely knew what a Banshee was. Now I own two of them and I'm just trying to figure shit out and get them built up the way I want them. I did a little riding at St.Anthony towards the end of the season last year and I'm looking forward to a lot more this year. I took a short ride out there the other day on the '01 I bought in January. The sand was nice and smooth!

Okay, thanks for that info, good to know what other people's experience is on things like this.

Overheating is always a concern. That light bar is blocking the bottom third of the radiator opening. That can't be helping. I'm just giving JDS some customer feedback. I wouldn't buy that set up the way it is. Make the arms a little longer and tilt it forward and I'd be more likely to consider it.

Light bar looks good but I wonder about it blocking air flow to the radiator. If the arms were a little longer and tilted forward it would minimize that.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/184621-leak-down-test/ Fuel pressure gauge available on line, tire valve at tire store, pipes for tester and rubber caps for exhaust at plumbing store, hose clamps for exhaust caps at parts store.

One of my Banshee gurus recommended this one to me. He's been using one for years. Seems accurate, no hose to fool with, fits under gas tank. http://www.esitest.com/703.html

Chrome or nickel?

Wow, what a difference. Right now on KSL.com in Salt Lake City there are over 40 Banshees listed for sale.

It seems like there are always plenty of nice Banshees for sale at good prices. The few nice 250r's I see are pricey.