yzf2yfz

Hey guys i have been doing a lot of reading and problem solving since i received my cylmer and for the most part im feeling pretty good about what ive learned. i do have a question that i cant seem to make sense out of reading endless threads looking for a specific answer, or even ballpark answer. i know no one can tell me with 100% positivity what i need to run, but some shedded knowledge would be nice. i went out and bought an actron compression test gauge, got the tank off. much to my surprise both cylinders were 165 psi -/+ it was hard to tell exactly with bench marks between 150 and 180lbs. slightly under the half way mark (165) that determains the head was milled. Im also now under the impression there is no port work done. (previous owner flat out told me it was all bolt ons, even stock head he swapped out for his friends milled head.) From my reading i understand that you need more shaved off the higher up you go to achieve the same compression reading. and you need to adjust your squish in respect to how much you shaved off. My concern is does squish need to be adjusted in relation to evalation? Ex. if he was running lets say 150psi ??, at 3000 ft/asl, and now im at 165psi at 1000 ft/asl, does mean i need to run higher than 93 oct? do i need to worry about the squish not having enough tolerance? Im looking for the safest, cheapest way to have a reliable machine. Hell, even if i need to just get a new unmodded head i would rather do that then not having some peace of mind. On my first thread, loco recomended 270-290 mains and 27.5 pilot. i went off that and ended up going 300 mains and 27.5. it is running rich, but from what ive found in other threads its not a bad idea to run rich with higher compression on pump fuel. Yesteday when i ordered toomey spark arrestors i ended up asking stuart toomey for the hell of it some advice on jetting. i told him my Compression, mods, evlivation change, what prevoius owner had (270 and 25 jets) he told me i am running way too rich...he said 280 and 25 pilots. other info: jetted for 65-90F, 45-65% humidity (very humid summers here in wisconsin) 1000ft /asl. Running 93 oct 32;1 castrol 927. stock timing. crank is stock, (cant remember if he said it was trued and welded, hoping so.) So thats where im at.

haha fair enough. pretty funny i just had the tank drained today, i didnt think to drain it before cleaning the petcock, turns out that was a terrible idea.

ok i got my cylmer manual, replaced tail light bulb, cleaned and recharged my pod filters, stopped the fuel petcock dripping leak. just cleaned it, now i have an extra petcock laying around. still need to plug chop but i know im not lean anymore. i bought an actron compression tester, i tried reading up about my silly quesiton im about to ask, dont blast me, but im having trouble simply screwing the extended 14mm tube into the clyinder. just dont see how anyone has enough room to spin the thick rubber tube 20 times inbetween the chassis and head?

but ahh hey guys my petcock came today, my manual did not. point being, i need some knowledge. limitied smoke comes out on idle, yet starts and idles great. i can confirm that there is NO gasket between the bowl and the housing in the carbs. why is there no gasket when i read that there should be...the imprints of an older carb even show that a gasket used to be there...should i get some gaskets in there if i suspect an air leak?

yeah man haha it felt good knowing its right where it needs to be, carb slides were backwards since day one some how. probably explains why i couldnt kick it over without throttle before haha

just fyi, the carbs look unmachined, measured both without any sign of machining. hell, that could be the point of shaving carbs, alas im asumming they are factory 28mm at this point, i did not mis-measure.

for sure i plan on bring it out to my rentts house in the country asap, once off work. im tellin you man, it is smackin on idle.the confidence that comes with a smooth reliable idle is insanley better than running off tune. like said, 300 might be ric, but already with the set up i put up seems stupidly stronger than before. we will see

ok after a google search with banshee HQ i see to measure the inside diameter, or AIR flow. which im at 1 /18" or 28.575MM. i measured with a tailors tape measure, not calipers, im asumming im running 28mm mikuni in that case being not as persise as ideal.

bottom line, if you arent even running through water, and still overheating, thats pretty NOT good...maybe it needs time to run through the moisture you put it though...keep in mind my first ride on my new banshee ended with a down pour with EXPOSED pod filters with only outerwear protection. i started and idled my bike today with no problem, with the very recent rejetting (20 minutes after throwing richer jets in.) you could be looking at a rebuild? or maybe just waiting out the moisture. good luck my friend.

well guys i got my kit and filter in the mail today. and installed them within 30 minutes after my shift. took a few kick to get the fuel pumping in the system, bottom line, i had no idea how strong these things idle, i cannot wait to feel it on the move...one thing i noticed, i defintately had the slides put in backwards, interestingly i put them back just as i disasembled them? they were backwards from day 1 i got it... i swapped springs from the carbs to see the slides drop CUT OUT facing me/ air filters...only way theyd go. so happy to accomplish this simple and stupid task. put 27.5 jets and 300 mains in. possibly a little rich but alot better than 25 and 270...and wrong facing slides... still waiting on the new petcock and clymers manual, you guys made it possible to do the jetting without the manual, which my impulse thanks you for (,sheester_98 especially.) this weekend i plan to clean and oil my pod filters, reinstall a new petcock, and with any luck find a tail light bulb/ or assembly in town. i also measured my carb to reed port. im not sure how to measure it, but i took inside, outside, and mid diameters. inside: 1 1/18th" outside 1 1/2" mid 1 1/4". the circumference of the port on the carb is 4 1/2". any help on the carb measurements would be gratefully accepeted. i know to convert to MM, after i get the answer how to measure carbs ill be in business. thanks all.

yeah i know i wish i had a choice, but it was either buy 290 jets for $13 plus 310s for $13 or the Jet kit for $30 which includes what sizes i listed i got. 280 -300 - 320 one of those three will be far better than what im running 270s. im guessing 300 will be my sweet spot. but i did read going from a very low humidity to a high humidity will yield 0-2 smaller mains. going from a desert to a humid wisconsin. im assuming ill have to compensate for that. i will find out once im able to run them and chop the plugs. just to be clear he was jetted for 3300-3500ASL i will be jetting for 900-1200ASL also,, id bet he threw smaller jetting on to compensate for the heat too, it gets well above 90F in the desert. we barely ever hit 90F in our summers. So ill have to adjust for that too.

and thanks i still havent touched the bike, im waiting for the jet kit and new inline filter, new petcock, and cylmers manual. the jets i got are 280s, 300s, 320s, & 350s. on the side i ordered 27.5s and 30s. was thinking though, if i brought it up 2-3 sizes for asl, wouldnt i need to bring it back down 1-2 sizes since its way more humid here than in the desert?

yeah ha thats called making fun of oneself. i obviously wouldnt be looking for sympathy from anyone here haha.

you never specified on what/or mods you have with your airbox or lack of. that being said, Banshee arent preferred for wet riding, although they are All Terrian Vechiles. So it could be a simple fix by sheltering your Carbs more if you have the intake naked. but ulimtately, stock intake you shouldnt have that much water in your carbs i believe.