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Ayesully810

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Everything posted by Ayesully810

  1. A few small stress marks on the top of the hood but other than that they are pretty clean. 400$ shipped Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  2. Man where were these deals when I was in the market last summer.. lol This is a freaking steal. don't take anything less than 4 k!!
  3. Bc i have a hard time reading the timing marks. Would rather just have the chariot one. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  4. I was going to tell that to who ever buys it Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  5. 50 shipped. Installed then ran for about an hour. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  6. My old stator was a high out put and I still ran it no problems without all the lighting hooked up.
  7. If u got a bike that makes a lot of torque, yes lol but then again u wouldn't need to grab bar to get the front end up. Something that's mildly modded wouldn't be too bad to do that on. Just making sure ur foot is in a good position.
  8. Thanks Chris. I think I read through those two last night from the links you sent me, ive been gobbling up all the jetting info I can.. Sending my pingel out tomorrow because its leaking so I should have this all squared away by next week when I get it back.
  9. Hmmm. Thats a thought. Ill look into that. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  10. The carbs are old. Jd had these carbs on the bike when it was in his possession I did not personally do the leak down Lane assembled it for me and made sure every thing was solid, and we ran it on the dyno with the afr and everything was straight.
  11. Yes that's why I am scratching my head over here. . It runs and rips still once I get in the power, heats up to temp very quickly, plugs are still on the rich side and has some good plooge out the back, but just cant get it to idle the right way..
  12. Okay Ive read a bunch of threads and got some advice from a few members on here for the last week and a half but i still haven't been able to figure the correct way to fix this and deal with the root of the problem -Bike will not hold an idle -Idle screws are all the way in. (plastics ones with the springs) -they DO move the slides, but only so far. I have to let slack out of the cable at the housing which then raises the slides slightly to achieve steady idle. I then syncd the carbs after doing that. Im still able to get full throttle -I changed my pilots from a 52 down to a 48 and it did nothing to the idle unless I did what I mentioned above. current jetting is 138 main, cel 4th clip. 48 pilot at 1.5 turns 421 DL low port timings 35 pwks, slp pipes. Ive tested all electrical and everything is within spec. Ive read trimming the spring wires can fix this so u can screw the plastics screws in more but I don't want to cover up the root problem, if there is one. Any help appreciated.
  13. Ive never had an issue with him Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  14. If thats what ur problem is that clutch will hold up just fine. No need second guess that Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  15. Yeah just replace the fibers and steels and install the new springs Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  16. Didnt think there was i was just curious who did ur build. What machine work did lane do? Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  17. Yeah pull the clutch apart first to see whats going on with the internals. Also who did ur motor work? U said a rep builder Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  18. How did u set the clutch up?Screw the barrel of ur clutch cable in the perch and give it a ton of slack, un do ur cable from the arm then push your actuator all the way toward the clutch side of your bike, the arrow from the arm should line up with the arrow on the case Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  19. So u did pull the clutch cover and inspected the pressure plate, steel and fibers, hub and basket? Yes the clutch actuator arm needs to be adjusted to align to arrow on the case. Do u have a pancake bearing? Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  20. Did u do the assembly? If so when you had the motor apart did you happen to pull the clutch cover and inspect the clutch components and see how things looked before you assembled? before you start draining fluids and pulling the cover make sure you clutch is adjusted properly at the case, then perch
  21. Real fast.. Brook350 is this the mark u were talking about? Should this line on the tie rod be on the wheel side or inside toward the stem ball joints Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  22. Hmm His name is rob.. Its prolly rob lowe. Thats cool though, me and my friend just got a kx250. Im gunna start trying to ride dirt bikes this summer. Been on a quad so long 2 wheels feels weird Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  23. Im willing to bet DMCBANSHEE helped popularize those pipes with his badass riding vids
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