Ayesully810

35 to 39mm carbs are 16mm pretty sure 28s are 19mm Just put some gas line on the gas nozzle tube part and hold the carb in your hand, blow into the line, push the float up until it stops the air, it should stop when the float is parallel with the carb body or just a TAD before. That's how ive always done it along with others as well and its works fine.

I looked at a quad last summer that had one and from what I can gather (correct me if im wrong brett) but it changes the ignition timing kinda like an adjustable timing plate. idfk honestly. just a guess. But I hated it because there were more wires to add to the rats nest of a stock wiring harness. I just re read it online and it goes right over my head. I hate electrical so I just ripped everything off my bike, eliminated everything except for what I needed for my bike to run and bought a drag cut wire harness from Kompulsive concepts and mouted my CDI behind my gas tank with a tether kill switch. I have basically no electrical on my bike, its great lol

If it were me I would get rid of it because 1. I have no idea how to work those and 2. I hate a bunch of electrical wires on my bike, the less the better in my book

LOld

tell ray that hehe

yes it is . 01 0813 cable number

true that. Support the people that are help keep it alive and healthy.. I feel the same about local businesses.

yeah your right I doubled checked. Ordered a few things says they have a new location.. wonder if they are gunna have a new name?

When does the discounted sales start? didn't see on either links

What pipes do you have? stock or after market? so it has two pods kns off the carbs? If so 27.5 pilot should be good with a 290 main. what are your jetting specs right now?

stock carbs with removed tors im assuming? you could always try re drilling it to see if it cleans it up at all and re tapping it. if not you could try and drill and tap to the next size and find a screw similar to the idle screw that it comes (smooth pointy size) with the tors removal kit as long as it moves the slide up.

Really? you know hes trolling right...

3 months to tear it down?? why is it a problem that you have wisecos? That wouldn't explain the issue on why your motor imploded.

dang that main jet is looking diirrrrrrrty

Oh snap.

I would split your cases and see if there is any other damage that was done first so you can gauge your budget. If your crank is toast and your going to go with a 4 mil you might as well get a 421 driveline setup or cub, serval, etc whatever your riding style demands are. But either way, doesn't matter with what option you choose, your gunna have to learn to tune the bike with any setup you get. Also, you CAN run anything you want with the setup (fmfs, stock carbs), most people don't and it just wont be optimal and there will be more power to be had for sure. btw if u want the 421 setup with better pipes and carbs your budget is gunna have to be more than 1500 crank- 450 top end- 800 to 900 pipes- 550 to 675 carbs- 350 filters- 80 adds up quick

That does not answer my question but ne ways nvm didn't mean to hi jack, carry on

What is your pilot jet and what needle are you running and at what clip?

Why? I don't get this.. only ground I have on bike is the coil obviously to the frame and one for the kill switch. Lots of other ppl run the same setup and have no problems so what is the point of this? genuinely asking

Im sure they dont. Most places dont carry banshee stuff esp after market maybe small oem stuff. Just order new upp intakes from fast and get it over with.

Don't you have to run a non resistor plug with nology? hence the b9es. Cant remember if I read that somewhere or not

idk what "rubber boot cages" are. Cages is what the reeds are usually called and they aren't rubber only thing that's rubber is the intakes that bolt to the reeds. If your talking about silicone sealant on the edges of the cages and intakes, I usually get a razor blade that's nice and sharp and clean that crap off, should come right off, can get a rag and put some brake cleaner on it and scrub a little and then blow off with air.

Huh? Are you taking about the intakes that bolt to the reed cages?

Ok thanks just wondering.. have you ridden the same setup with the 2 different set of carbs to compare the two?

If you know you can get them from Harry (which you know you can go to the site) why try and get them from CP? The cylinders are right on Mcd's page