Ayesully810

back when he first got this bike he had texted me pics of the port job after his top end went, the port job looked more than just a clean up. Transfers had been touched along with the intake bridge I think if I remember correctly maybe he still has the pics

lean pilot and at the perch. back your cable out more on your perch

I have a set of fast fibers from JDs old bike. I was gunna sell em but im keeping them for my drag build this winter

I have all 3 of these. pm me or txt me number is in my signature

He got it running. he gone

sold

welcome back to the banshee game. you should start selling parts again too since you back in it. lets start with those plastics

I got a set of sparkies that im almost sure ill never use. Pm me if interested

This sounds like u need to adjust ur clutch a bit

I have a bunch of extras I found but its not that big of a deal for me to pull the side cover to change em out

because that's what I had when I changed to my lock up. My forearms jacked the pull aint hard lol

DID U FIND OUT YOUR PILOT YET u need ur bike to be able to idle and ride first before u can do the mains. That is gunna have to do with your pilot and slide height 1 Sounds like your carbs are not Syncd properly 2 sounds like your threads on your carb body are effed if metal shavings are coming out. 3 take your idle screw all the way out and hit ur threads of that thing with some pb or wd and loosen that jam nut up all the way so its not so stiff. Its possible that who ever tors deleted your carbs didn't grind down the part where the idle screw goes in far enough and ur not able to screw them in far enough to get it to idle.

idk why everybody says that your clutch will be harder to pull at higher rpms with a lockup. My clutch pull doesn't change at all through out the RPM range with my dl lock up. anyone care to explain? I don't have a pro mod tranny but I do have the shift pro arm and modded shift star. I run 6 heavy springs with my FAST clutch in a chariot basket

LOL

yes claude full bore used to use this special material called "boltenstein" its rare

Yeah that's a rich condition. Where are you air screws at? also what pilot jet

yeah you get a carb syn tool. Also you could try and clean your carbs as best as you can to clean them windows up that way you can sync them. Is your quad revving out completely at WOT or is it sputter and choppy? if so your rich, you need to do a plug chop and that way you will be able to see. Then dial in your pilot and needle. not trying to be a dick but you should try and use correct punctuation with your posts bc they are hard af to follow.

Be sure to search all through the jetting and exhaust forum for how to tune your pilot and needle too there is tons of threads like that out there. Find out what needles you have and your position first. unscrew the top of the carb cap then pull the spring up and wiggle the retaining clip out then just pull the cable out. Un do the two screws holding on the clip retainer then the needle will just fall out, Count which groove it is on.

Dont worry im sure it absolutley will get worse

Depends on what ur looking for. After my build i found that ny motor drank gas AND i was running 110. Not a good combo on a trail motor. So i switched to pump gas ( from 180 psi to 150) and went to stockers. Lost some peak hp and a little torque but who cares? Still 70+ hp and 40+ torque on an unported motor and my gas milage rocks now. Dont be afraid to run the 28s. If u do run the 35s dont set it up for race gas like i did.

pwk bowls will do just fine I ran the same setup (running stock carbs now) just make sure to run a pingel like the above stated

u get 8 k out of it?

lol ^

motion pro 01-0813 cable number

pm sent