Ayesully810

just spend 340 and buy a JL arm you will be happy you did, mate

yeah my cdi is behind the tank kill switch only can you look and see what you have and shoot me a pm? thx

I just got longer bolts with lock nuts that go all the way through the frame where they bolt in. Do i need a bender?

west coast atv has to have one!!

whats your setup with mods (motor), current jetting as well are your idle screws screwed all the way in?

I had PT mids on this absolute pile of crap I bought for a grand when I was 16. I wish I could remember what they rode like. All I remember is that I always had electrical issues with it (the coil) but I had no idea how to fix stuff and wasn't motivated at that time to learn. Also I remember being in 5th gear wot and the front end collapsed in on me because the cotter keys and lock nuts came off the tie rod end ball joints that hold on to the spindles. Was scary af

bike has come a log way. post some riding vids

idk crap about paring and matching that stuff up but id assume that you wont need a complex set up with that. Guessing its for play drags with your stock setup and shearer pipes. 14/43 with a 7 or 8 paddle is the first thing that popped in my head. im sure more seasoned guys will give u better info. I ran 9 paddle padla brats, stock gearing 21 inch tire, on a 80 hp motor and stock swing arm and it hooked so hard I couldn't launch without flipping it. JT sprockets are nice tho

I would think so. if I ever had a banshee that I rode trails ONLY. that's the pipe id run. Rob has ran mids before though (on his girls bike I think) and liked them, so it would be less of a risk getting them apposed to the slps and him end up not liking them. that's my guess

would you ever try slps out? im curious how they would compare to pt mids

are you talking about on the actual timing plate? or the stator its self? I use an impact driver on most stuff. with the timing plate you can only use it on that top screw bc that's the only one that has enough room. if you absolutely cannot get the timing plate off, use an impact driver to remove the screws holding the stator on (assuming those are glued on there too) then remove the stator, then you can use a thin grinding disk to cut slots in the screws holding the timing plate on to get a good bite with the impact driver, then pop em right off.

Looks fine to me.

oh burn!!! ^ haha sounds good rob bout time you show that thing some love. An enduro on that thing would be nuts though. That would tire you the F out

Generally, running higher compression with race fuel calls to run a COOLER plug. You should stick with the BR9ES plug (if your motor has high enough compression to run race fuel like tricked said)

oh shoot you weren't kidding

this is true. my buddy has my old slps on his stock setup. only install issue was that it was touching the frame and needed a spacer on each pipe up front

yeah I know. mat said he would just sell me the stingers they 180 bucks I just wanted to try and do it my self and see if I could save a few bucks. those plastics look sick btw on the new frame!

How much did that run you carl?

another interested factoid is that these pipes have been around for YEARS lol like 20 years or something like that and they are just now getting notoriety. Wonder what builders would have done with these pipes years back had they known they worked so well with built motors

I need that bumpa!! good input on the slps. I experienced those fitting issues too on mine. Rear stingers where they went into the silencers rubbed against sub frame pretty bad. It wasn't a show bike so I didn't care, but yeah other than that, that's right on, they def fit a particular riding style. I will say that I LOVED my slps in the sand because they make power so quick (and wheelie like a mother) which is nice having some bottom end power in the sand so you don't have to ring its neck the whole time while you ride and tire your self out. Honestly FMFs are VERY comparable to Slps as far as when the power is delivered, but slps hit much harder.

yeah they can we swapped. only thing that is modified is the stingers

this too

you make it sound like its running rich as hell. Perhaps your pilot circuit is jetting too rich. try turning your air screws out. If you kick it and it starts, if you stay on the throttle, does it stay alive?

this post is 11 years old and he hasn't logged in over a year lol

lean pilot circuit jetting.. screw your air/fuel screw in and see if that helps