Ayesully810

CT knows that, they prolly gunna try and sell him the port job to go with it lol

noted

pmd

I have a chariot billet basket that needs some love ( hole to be tapped) and new cushions if you wanna save money, ill sell it to you cheap.

if it runs fine then run it. a better tester with the right tip will give you a more accurate reading, plus with the throttle open. if the compression was bad, it would start hard.

your t5s carry peak power up to 11 k?

If it feels rich down low, turn the air screw out a half turn or full turn and up the main jet a size or two. Sounds like minor jetting changes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

lien with it rock with it

whats pilot with AF setting and when did u plug chop. weather def plays a role (as mentioned above) if it was perfect in the summer and still running a 158 you might be 2-3 sizes too lean now depending on how cold it is. Carbs and bowl size is not your issue as long as float level is fine.

Im no ford mechanic by any means but it sounds to me like you have the wrong spark plugs try BR8ES and sync the carbs with a vacuum tool. Also leak down test

they work good so far?

word? im down. lemme know when you are ready, you know ill throw you a bone of course tho. ben ^ actually has them lol i actually havent sold then re wanted the parts ive just sold in a long time. im making progress.

JM industries is apparently working on carbon fiber silencers for shearers and snipers right now but im assuming they will be expensive af. Nice products i just cant justify spending that much on half of the products. But if the silencers are really nice ill prolly grab a set.

why is no body talking about bills pipes?? I have one on my lawn mower makes more power over stock bills>snipers

edit. I just read your post again, im assuming now by 68mm you meant the GASKET kit. the only thing that could effect your compression is the base gasket. your base gasket would have to be a hell of a lot thicker to drop 40 psi. a thinner base gasket is going to bring the piston closer to the dome which tightens the squish and increases compression (not significantly though) the opposite is true for thicker gaskets. going from a .020 to a .032 gasket wouldnt drop compression by 40 psi for example

how did you go from a 65.5 pistons (basically 100 over pistons) to a 68 mm piston? did he put big bore sleeves in your motor after as well? even if he did that still doesnt make sence because youd still be less than 68mm unless they start at 68mm.. dont count on ring seating netting you another 40 psi

per tyson mobile 1 0W20

I say buy a beater and keep this one crated. its been 13 years already whats another 13

lol

what gauge solder did you use? maybe it wasnt thick enough.

.050 or bigger would be more ideal. whats the compression at? did you test that yet

doesnt take a banshee mechanic to adjust a clutch, just knowledge on how a clutch works. blue loctite on the end of the jam nut every time.

there is debate on this as far as i can see but for the most part most builders that you talk to will tell you around 160 you wanna run 100 octane (or half 110 half 93) and any compression above that race fuel. I ran 93 on my old 4 mil stock cylinder setup at 160 psi with no detonation issues, but the first time i took it to the dunes I was backing plugs out all day, higher octane would have helped in that case ( or less timing), terrain can play a role.

Here is the best way to rule out electrical headaches. throw away your old harness and buy a new one from south texas banshee. eliminate every electrical piece and just run a kill switch tether so the bike runs, then you can mount your cdi behind your gas tank or oem location (let your harness maker know which location) then join banshee hq swap page and buy a used OEM only stator. then get new NGK plug caps they are cheap, and then your done.

Because single carb setups are the new hipsters of the banshee world why not just run stock carbs?