Ayesully810

7 mil driveline setup, you dont need a billet crank. thats your best bang for $. and they are proven setups you will spend under 2k for their crank, top end, domes and case work. numbers depends on whos dyno its on. close to around 90 on pump gas with 35mm carbs, dont bother with race fuel unless you dont mind spending an arm and leg for a tank of gas you will burn through in under an hour.

those are great pipes. what are all the mods? could be a jetting issue. and who did the porting

do you have a pancake bearing adjuster on the pressure plate or oem? something isnt adjusted properly.

after some research im pretty sure you have the trinity 420 "kit" there google bansheehq trinity 420 kit bunch of stuff pops up

its worth it to sell stuff believe me i hate it too but thats where all the sheep are so sell away and then get back off of it good luck

looks to be a 70mm sleeve in stock cylinders 4 mil crank look how big the intake widows are compared to stock. what do you mean pulled it apart to freshen it up? did you test compression? it might be perfectly good to run now after fixing the reeds.

what cylinders? are these cheetah cylinders? ck 158 is hot rods long rod my guess a 4 mil 70mm bore trinity setup did they even make a 70mm bore no idea post more pics

try the bansheehq fb swap page too, i hate fb but have an account that i activate when i wanna buy or sell stuff.

4,10,24 etc they huge now

get an ohm meter (digital multi meter) and ohm out all electrical components (stator, coil primary, and coil secondary leads, spark plug boots) can trim plug wires back to see if that works too first, start with easy stuff before you go spending money you dont need, unfortunately you cant test cdi only replace with a known working one. start there then buy if needed. HQ fb swap page will yield your parts at a discounted price. oem parts only

doesnt sound like a tranny issue but i could be wrong. replace eccentric screw if worn and use cylmer manual to adjust it properly, shows very clearly how to do it. as for the clutch? is goes FIBER, metal, F, m,F,m,F etc. ENDING on fiber, not metal. should be 7 fibers. also makes sure your shift shaft is seating properly all the way through the case on the other side with the spacer behind the shifter.. if it comes out slightly it could effect the grab.

id run race fuel If i were you, also you can tell if there is too much timing by how far its burning up on the bridge. about 3/4 the way up is safe I think. if plugs are reading good and jetting is safe, just leave it. thats what ive learned

how was the eccentric screw adustment?

this right here.

once you pull the head and intakes you should have a good idea of whats been done. It really wouldnt be much work to take the cylinders off to be honest. that way you will find out if it has some port work done etc. a compression test should be a good indicator of whats going on though, and then you can just retard timing and make sure jetting is good, then just run it till it wears out and then upgrade

might as well try a 40 pilot too, perhaps no pilot, ghost ride the carb

yeah the number of turns it takes to get it where its normal might vary for engine to engine. Id be more concerned with the 91 and plus 8 timing, check compression and see where you are at, but 93 oct. and plus 4-6 timing is usually safe for pump gas motors.

The idle screws i wouldnt worry about, you said 34mm keihin carbs, if thats correct, those are PJ carbs and they adjust by turning the choke to the R or L. Just get a carb sync tool and make sure you carbs are syncd up correctly. Then id test compression and see where your compression is at. What fuel are you currently running? plus 5-6 timing is pretty normal higher compression and race fuel setup you can usually do more timing.

fixed 290-300 main with a 27.5 pilot and properly adjusted air fuel screw should be fine. if you riding in 70 degrees you wont have to change your pilot though, only adjust your air fuel screw. once you start getting down to 30 40 degrees you should jsut to be safe.

true. I never knew my engine was a shape. im the most lost. wait what thread is this?

you should join the blasters only page, that bunch makes the people on the hq fb page look likea bunch of thomas edisons

Driveline performance will hands down meet your needs as far as price and horsepower explain the setup? a 421 requires a 4 mil stroker crank. If you buy this setup from driveline performance, you will buy the top end, domes, and crank. you can run stock carbs and reeds on this as well but obviously the bigger carbs and better reeds will net more horsepower. after market pipes are a must on this. you can buy the right setup for trail or drag racing. http://drivelineperformance.com/yamaha/banshee/cylinder-kits/

bump to my first thread on here when i didnt know anything , 100% this was a jetting issue that I could now have fixed in 5 minutes. thanks hq

komulsive been busy or something i had a friend had the same issue reaching him lately said it would be a few weeks before he could get him a harness. hes usually ontop of it though