Ayesully810

I think im going to try out 100LL for a bit and see how it does. im a little over 155 psi right now. I found some today at a local air port for 4.98 a gallon. Grabbed a gallon today and started the bike up, started 5th kick after sitting all winter

im leaning towards just doing a 50/50 mix of 110 and 93 right now. race fuel is expensive as heck right now though at the pump where im at

are both pipes heating up to temp?

if you have a crank seal leak in the right side (clutch side) you will smoke like a train out the right side, it wont rev, and you will have oil (transmission) coming out the silencer depending on how bad the leak is. its more obvious if its a crank seal leak. did you pressure test the motor after rebuild to find any leaks? you might have small leaks around the intakes which is nbd but the crank seals are a no no on leaks. if so and that tested out, then check float level, perhaps the left side isnt getting fuel

thanks man. thats basically the conclusion of all the old threads from 10 years ago but I thought id make a new one to see if that has changed at all.

I know this has been beat to death so I am sorry, but based on experience, what would be a better choice? 100LL or 50/50 (110, 93) I access to both claude is the only one i know that runs 100LL

yes. when i bought jds bike he had it wrapped all around the filters and they were good for the most part. be generous with it ps friggin sweet bike!

how good a rider is she and how experienced? a 392 driveline (stock stroke) with stock carbs and some fmf pipes and stealth head with domes would make good power also and be very use able, and if that isnt enough for her down the road there are many variables that you could change with that basic setup, such as pipes, domes, timing, carbs and reeds

GOT SOME thanks jmadd

awesome read.

friggin A!

I think I did slack in throttle housing first, then bottomed the top screws all the way out, then made adjusted the slack on the tops to make sure that both carbs open ALL the way, then start bike and adjust idle syn. part throttle syn you can do that by eye, you know if the slides are opening at the same time just by looking, thats just my opinion though other will disagree.

friggin sweet looking bike go slps

i only got them because of the noise requirements but I found a way around that and prefer the regular silencers for the look. i just dont wanna buy new but i might have to unless BIG E responds back to me lol

Yes I did to Ben I want to go back to the shearer silencers with custom sparkies that I got. You know me story of my life buy something then sell it 2 months later lol surprised I even still have my bike

Bump pm sent

pm sent

how am i just now seeing this thread lol this was awesome.

good idea, pull the plug, check jetting, had plugs back out at dunes once when it was jetted too lean, started to close the gap even. this was after back to back drag racing at a strip. more fuel cleared it up

I have front spindes, hubs and brakes, newer style. good condition stuff, will ship was going to use for a blaster front end conversion but im getting rid of that project text me for pics 2482147918

ive never ran 33s so i wasnt sure how d they compare to 28s. I ran stockers on my 4 mil and it def had more bottom end but i think 28s would let them breathe a little more. I love my 35s they just drink fuel

might be an acorn from a squirrel this past winter, you got chippers nuts in there?

no klotz super techniplate i just always say super tech because i assume people will know what im referring to lol

r50 i think is better for sitting for a long period of time, my bottle of benol klotz literally froze into a block of ice in my garage, glad i quit running that stuff once it got cold, i ran super tech in mine before winter in the fall and been tuning it over couple times a week all winter.

28 pwks are your best bet , second, bored stockers. idk who bores carbs anymore but last i knew hjr does