Ayesully810

Lmao please don’t skeeter

600 shipped. I don’t have pics I’m uploading off the website. You can text me if you want pics. I’m a legit seller on here just haven t been active for a while. Claude is gay 2482147918 is my number. I’ll try and upload through tapa talk later

I hit the paper clip button on the right, it let me do It that way (shrugs) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve only burn my arm checking plugs on them so far, have a nice scar on my forearm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love the cpis Much better all around pipe.. trader the shearers for them. Shearers are better for drag though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bill from driveline ported it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha nice ! They look good on yours Here’s how it is now. Also some new chariot and mattoon stuff all over and a new K&T shaved frame with rigid mtr mounts arched sub frame etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nvm, friggin 1 dollar a month sub to post pics from tapatalk? I’m outta here for another 8 months.

Good lord this machine doesn’t even resemble this 2018 form. Same motor still though, just a BHP port job and race gas domes. Let me try and post a current pic.

facebook bhq swap page is your best bet

100 and 95 is not good compression, thats rebuild time compression stock compression is around 120-130 depending on elevation you need a compression tester that has the same thread length as the spark plug with a schrader valve. kick it with the throttle open until the needle stops moving. prolly 10-15 kicks for a stock motor

its all the same

i wasnt trying to be insulting I was just saying screw the shops.

I meant if you were to run a play bike on meth, i have no interest doing that was just curious I play with it ALL the time

wouldnt a play bike load up more though since your not ringing its neck 24/7? idk anything about meth although I am from flint

If it runs good once you get going to me that doesnt sound electrical but who knows. Usually if its electrical from my experience it runs WORSE once under load or once it gets into the power band. List of banshee essential diagnostic tools. -leak down tester -compression tester with the proper tip -digital multimeter -clymers manual -flywheel puller -feeler gauges -patience First put those jets back in (300) and 27.5 pilot. Toomey needles are superior just an fyi but unlikely your issue. I would get a digital multimeter with ohm setting and test all the electrical components, you cant test the CDI but you can test the coil leads and primaries and the stator (and verify that you have all oem electrical components) Then compression test and then leak down test. I wouldnt trust a "shop" to work on anything. I would also pull the stator cover and verify the pick up coil gap (feeler gauge, .018)

so you took your banshee to a shop, he had it for 3 weeks and all he did was crank the air screw in and mess up the float level? wow, superb mechanic-ing Just another reason to either learn to work on this stuff yourself via BHQ forums with trial and error (thats how most people here learned) or send your stuff to a legit banshee builder (reference the BHQ sponsors.)

155 anymore you want closer to 100 oct

im debating taking my cylinders off for porting and new domes to get mine up into the 90s..

it would be much better to port the domes

you should sell it just an idea

facebook banshee hq swap page, someone will buy them.

thats really good!

hows that jalopy running for ya ?

Depends though, going from a .020 to a .015 will be a marginal change enough to tighten the squish and compression a few but won’t effect port timings negatively