Keno

Common pump in jetskis is all. Personally, I would build a bracket and not use zipties.

That's a Mikuni DF-62

Gravity Fuel and oil have a lot more mass than air and if they are occluding the tube, the fuel/oil will absorb most of the pulse energy meant for the pump diaphragm Edit: I noticed you keep saying vaccum. The pump is actuated by the positive and negative pulses in the crankcase.

You want the pulse feed to be on the top or side of the intake with the pump mounted somewhere above the feed. And no low spots in the pulse tube. Ideally distance between the pump and the pulse port need to be as short a possible (within reason). With the pulse feed on the bottom, or the pump below the feed, you are allowing fuel to accumulate in the tubing and/or pump. This drastically decreases the pulse signal to the pump.

https://facebook.com/pages/Custom-Rewind/165645350129391

Please elaborate on what "chain is tight" means. Also as stated above, sprockets are junk, and/or crooked.

I believe JDS customs has been selling the ElectroSport or Procom brand. Might look into those

https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/intake-clamp-35mm.html?search=Clamp

Fireball http://www.fireball-racing.com/ Stellar https://www.facebook.com/Stellar.Performance.AZ/ Jetting http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf

New cable should be shorter than old stretched cable. Are you sure you have the new cable installed correctly? And have the correct cable? Post a picture. What spring at the end are you talking about?

You'll want a set of +2+1 J-arms from Stellar or Fireball. Contact both. I think Fireball is around $500. Stellar might be cheaper From Chariot : Head, Intake, pancake bearing, impeller. Total $355 From JDSCustoms : SLP Pipes, Carburetors, Throttle cable Use the coupon SAVE5 $864.50 Ebay : Oversized Radiator $60 Driveline : LP Cylinders, domes, Clutch, Crank, 120 link Chain, $1,474.62 Alba Racing: Elka Legacy Front and Rear Shocks use coupon BANSHEEALBA $899.10 JL Engineering MX Swingarm $515 ATV Galaxy GBC XC Master+DWT G3 Wheel Set $850 JJ&A Carrier $190 V-force 4 reeds $190 Total $5,900 Go with Driveline Cylinders instead of Vito's. There is almost zero chance of doing all of this under $5000. So you're going to want to check out the for sale section for some of this. Also there is going to be lots of little things that are going to add up. so realistically plan on over $6000

All of the Maxxis RAZR knockoffs on ebay look like pretty good bang for the buck. Or if you want a brand that's not a no name, the GBC xc Series looks good. https://www.ebay.com/dsc/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=(P348+tire%2C+gbc+xc)&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X(P348+tire%2C+gbc+xc).TRS2&_odkw=P348+tire&_osacat=0

Good to know you got it sorted out. There must not be enough current at idle to charge the cap and run the light at idle. BTW I did some testing on my "72w" light bar and it is actually a 25w FWIW. So yah, 6800uf should be more than enough.

There are many good exhaust choices depending on your setup and your goals. Post your setup and maybe someone will help you pick one out. Alternatively call a site sponsor and they will be able to steer you in the right direction. You could also go to the dyno section and look at some graphs to help decide.

In addition to the crank seal, also check the Stator grommet. It could be letting stuff in the stator area. FAST sells replacements if you need one.

You'll have to be able to crimp the appropriate ends on the hose. Take it in to a shop that does custom hydraulic hoses and see if they can duplicate it. OR Call Works and see if they will sell you a hose. I take it you are rebuilding your shock yourself?

Well, actually I messed up. Forgot a 0. Should be 22,000uF capacitor. So max voltage is roughly 17v so add in a safety margin say 40-50% so 17*1.45=24.65v. This is the lowest voltage rated cap you should choose. Can be any voltage rating above 25. A very rough estimation of capacitance needed is capacitance=amperage/(frequency*voltage drop) So a Banshee idles at about 1500 RPM. And Hertz is cycles per second. So a Banshee idles at 1500/60=25hz. This is also the time it takes for the flywheel to complete 1 revolution meaning our AC Frequency at idle is 25hz (0 to 12v to 0 to -12 to 0). Since we are putting the waveform through a Full Wave Rectifier the cycle frequency doubles. So after rectification we have a Frequency of 50 HZ due to the negative portion of the AC signal being flipped to the positive side. I chose an arbitrary number of 5v voltage drop as 17-12=5 capacitance=5a/(50*5)=0.02F or 20,000uF I went to mouser and looked for a cheap Capacitor and there Were some 25v 22,000uF caps for less than $4 so Decided that would work. You can probably get by with a much smaller cap, as the light bar has its own capacitor built in and this formula isn't super accurate.

That's what you need! Yeah, the peak will be around 17v DC but the average voltage will be 10-11v DC. You'll still have a little flicker at idle, but won't be as bad. If it bothers you, put about a 2200uF or larger 25v capacitor across the positive and negative of the light. edit: should be 22,000uF and can actually be a little smaller.

Regular bulbs use a resistive tungsten wire that heats and glows. The resistive tungsten wire doesn't care which way the electrons flow and glows either way. ALL resistive filament bulbs can be used with AC or DC. Including house incandescent bulbs [emoji3] LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. Diodes only allow current through in one direction. Without a rectifier or full wave diode bridge to the LED bar you are blocking half the AC wave form causing increased flicker, dimming, and possible death of the light due to every trough of the wave form being like hooking the light up to reverse polarity. (Most likely kill the input capacitors or led controller chip)

Looks good! How much time do you think you put into it?

.26-.38 Ohms I believe http://www.dfn.com/agservices/elecfaq.html

Instead of redoing your harness and possibly making another problem. Just fix your lights first. Ohm the lighting circuit of the stator and verify connections first.

Please tell me more. Can you link to the post that turn you on? I too enjoy playing around while on the phone with Darren.

Don't forget that for MX you'll need a -2 swingarm.

Ayesully hit on most things. I like having a set of JIS +2 and +3 screwdrivers. (different than phillips even though they look similar) rubber mallet is helpful for separating cases carb sync tool I like a set of long allen sockets (allen on one end, 3/8 socket on the other) Emphasis on the calibrated torque wrench. A digital torque wrench adapter may be more versatile than actual torque wrenches. at some point you'll need a big ass wrench, torch, and cheater bar for the axle nut. lol