Keno

My recommendation would be to call them about the shocks. When I ordered the RC2s for my LT setup, ATV Galaxy replaced the eyelet bushings that came with the shocks to the correct ones for a Banshee.

No, don't tie the lighting circuit into the ignition circuit. Btw, the coil sparks because of a collapsing magnetic field when power is removed from the coil. [emoji6] So tying the headlights to your coil is going to make the coil not spark OR overheat and die.

Serious question, what is wrong with your thumbnail?

If it is not an oem stator, verify that the wires are in the plug correctly. Like green to green, red to red, ect. Also if you have a key, verify that it still works.

Should work fine. Should allow you to drain your coolant without replacing the gasket. Not much to talk about, lol

Ahh, good to know. From the picture, I was thinking it was a piece of 1/2" tubing lol.

Pretty sure that is trash and doesn't go to anything

I cannot stop laughing at this. LOL

Over 9000!

I like your style, spend $200 on reeds, but won't spend less than $20 to make sure you don't melt a piston.

If there is a solid rod and a hollow tube made of the same material and are the same diameter, the solid rod will be stronger. A hollow tube that has the same mass as a solid rod will be stronger, but have a much greater diameter. Thus, a hollow tube can have a greater strength per mass.

Both sold. If anyone wants one, I can make 2-3 more.

No

You have cages, you need new reed petals. You'll need 2 of these https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/v-force-2-replacement-reeds-banshee.html The piece of petal missing most likely blew out the exhaust

Lol, Children these days.

1 Sold, 1 Still available

From the 1 source I found, apparently T1 and T2 were just for sponsored race teams. With T3s being the first publicly available pipe. So the answer is "not really"

Came from a running Banshee. There is some self fusing tape fixing the sheathing. Includes adapter. PM me if interested

If you unplug the selector box, it defaults to curve 4, which on a untouched Dynatek is the "stock" curve. If you go +4* on the plate, then you'll end up at 17* from 10-12K. This may or may not be too much timing. You may be better off just buying a programming cable, maybe only turning your plate +3*, using curve 3 with plate at 0*, or swapping ignitions with somebody.

Selling 2 Dynatek Programming cables that I made. Tested working. Includes USB adapter (no name but works). Cable length is 5 ft of high quality Canare Cable 4S6 (much more flexible than the Dynatek Cable). The battery connector is hard plastic and is better than comes on the Dynatek cable. $45 Shipped each. If there is enough interest, I may make a couple more. Windows Driver for the USB adapter: http://www.wch.cn/downfile/65 Dynatek CurveMaker: http://docs.dynaonline.com/Document/18801 CurveMaker Instructions: http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/Curvemakerv21.pdf

The only way you know what curves are on the box is to program it yourself.

If you put the timing plate at 4 degrees then it is the same as adding 4 degrees to the entire timing curve. Thus, stock curve + 4 degrees on plate= stock curve+4 degrees across the entire curve. Honestly, I would put the timing plate at 0 and put the ignition on curve 3.

Pretty sure TDR bought all of the remaining T-Rex inventory. So best bet is to contact him. http://www.bansheesuperstore.com/contact.html Also....... http://shop.bansheedepot.com/Wiseco-9543-Series-T-Rex-Piston-Kit-9543.htm?categoryId=-1

You have to split the cases to change the bearing. I've never done it, but it should be possible to change the oil seal without splitting the cases. Chances are that if you have an oil leak, it is the neutral switch cover. On the other hand of it is the oil seal, you might as well split the cases and change all the seals.

Seriously?! That really sucks. I've always heard they make the best axles.